How far from the reel would your first guide typically be? On a standard casting setup I would normally put that well over 20", but does it make more sense to make the transition earlier? I will be using size 4.0 running guides on bottom, a 5600C4 and 12lb test.

Same as a conventional wrapped rod.

DR



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/12/2008 10:05PM by Duane Richards (DR).

Hi,

For a spiral rod I set my guides up exactly as I do a conventional. Then I rotate the guides to 180* except for the first 2 in front of the reel seat. With the rod static deflected I set up those 2 guides and also the added guide between the first 2 guides.

When I set up the guide in front of the reel I make sure the line touches the bottom of the guide ring when the rod is loaded. I also check to make sure that the line will not interfere with the fore grip or the anglers hand when the rod is loaded.

Historically on the boat rods I design the guide in front of the reel is approximately 20" in front of the reel.

Capt Neil Faulkner

If you follow the simple spiral wrap, you set it up just like a conventional rod and then flip all but the closet guide to the reel 180 degrees. Then you add a bumper guide between the 2 closest guides to the reel. I had been doing one of the older spiral techniques for most of my rods in the past, but in reworking a rod for a friend, I talked him into trying the spiral wrap. Since I was re-wrapping all the guides, I flipped the ones over to the bottom and added the bumper guide. I really liked how this worked out. Was not sure about the simple spiral, but now it will be the way I go from now on.

Capt Neil Faulkner Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> For a spiral rod I set my guides up exactly as I
> do a conventional. Then I rotate the guides to
> 180* except for the first 2 in front of the reel
> seat. With the rod static deflected I set up
> those 2 guides and also the added guide between
> the first 2 guides.

Captain, what is involved with the "I set up those 2 guides"? Are you playing with the spacings and/or the degree they sit on the blank? Thanks.

Hi Tim,

I leave the 2 guides where they are in ref to the reel. I will rotate then as you will soon see.

I cut surgical tubing of different ID's to hold my guides in place. This way I can easily move the guides.

The 1st guide (just above the reel) I offset to the left 20-30* for starters. This is cheating in order to move the line around the blank more easily/faster.

The 2nd guide is set around 160-170* for starters.

Now I add a new guide between #1 and #2 guides. I set that in the middle and around 110-120* for starters.

I run the line from the reel, thru the guides and tip top. I attach a 4 oz sinker to the end of the line to hold tension on the line. This makes the line follow the guides when I pull down on the tip top as I check line travel.

I want the line to come off the reel and thru the transion area to the 1st 180* guide without touching the blank. I will start with the line in the middle of the reel and play with the 3 guides till I am happy. The middle guide I will move up and down the blank if needed and also rotate it, The #1 and 2 guides I will rotate as needed.

When I am happy with the line path I will also test it with the line moved to each side of the reel spool. Sometimes the line coming off the left side of the spool can give a problem when I rotate guides to the left.

My logic for rotating the guides to the left is two fold. One, I always use my thumb on the line to control line coming onto the spool. I do not like level wind reels. Two, I like to think that going to the left might offset some of the weight of the right side plate of the reel. I do realize that FW bass rods rotate the guides to the right.

This is just how I do it and I realize that there are many other ways. I hope this helps. Have fun doing it. It is not rocket science. Do it as it works for you.

3-14-8

I forgot to add, make sure to check the first 3 guides as you pull down on the line to load the rod that the line is in the center of each roller and not stuck between a roller and the frame. If it is stuck retune the roller positions, especially #1 and the middle transition guide. I consider my first 3 guides in front of the reel to be transition guides.

My guides usually go size 20-16-12 and so on. I now find that a #12 guide works better between the #20 and #16 transition guides as it moves the line better around the blank.

Capt Neil Faulkner



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/14/2008 07:27AM by Capt Neil Faulkner.

re you using a 12 for the first guide I would place it 18 to 20 inches from the reel. After you have placed the rest of the guides on and are doing a deflection test .I would have the line going thre the center of the guide and try and plce the guide so when tine passes trew the guide it dose not hit the guide when coming off the reel.
Good wrps Bob