I have a 9" decal from C to go onto a rod. This decal IS a peel and stick and NOT a waterslide. Since I only have one shot at this and I'm not use to the peel and sticks from DC, do you guys have any tips for me. The decal is clear with lettering on it. Any tips would be appreciated.

I was thinking of lying down a coat of TM and let that cure. Then wetting the area with a little tiny bit of soap and water mixture and working it down tight and let dry.............Thoughts anyone?

DR

I have been using peel-n-sticks from DC more recently. The biggest things to overcome are getting the decal straight, no air bubbles, and no fingerprints. This is the method I have come up with that works best.

Peel a small part of the backing off the decal using your fingers, keeping finger contact as close to the edge of the decal as possible
Cut off a small part of the backing, (1/2" or so), exposing the adhesive of the decal.
Cut off the clear portion of the decal that probably has a finger print - should be just a sliver.
Line up the decal, and press on the center of the exposed adhesive.
Peel back the rest of the backing as you lay out the decal on the blank - but only allow the center of the decal to stick.
Go back and use a burnishing tool to gently rub the rest of the decal on to the blank - the squeegees from DC work well also.

I have had excellent success with this method. I would avoid the soap as it could cloud up behind the decal.

Good Luck,
Marc

DR;
another suggestion is to use the edge of an exacto razor blade knife to seperate the edge and avoid the finger print all together. I would also suggest that instead of cutting off part of the backing. You fold it back that way you have a piece to grasp between your thumb and forefinger as a tab to pull back. Would do the rest as Marc suggest

If you end up with a bubble you can slice it or poke a hole in it and work the bubble out starting at the edges of it and working to the hole when epoxied the hole or small slice will diapear



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/25/2007 10:14PM by Steve Gardner.

Yup, TM undercoat and then care in laying it down.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

Yup, TM undercoat and then care in laying it down.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

I'll get a coat on the wraps and get the marbling done tomorrow, then I'll tackle the decal on Thursday eve.....thanks guys! Sounds about the same way I do the SC decals that have that clear backing.

DR

Why don't you ask Debbie how they recommend the installation ?

I haven't used any peel and sticks for a while but what I used to do is place the decal on the rod where I want it to go (with the backing on) and then tape the end of the decal on the rod (I usually do this at the end of the decal but one 9" long you may want to tape it at the top of the decal). The tape acts like a hinge and you can carefully flip up the decal peel the backing off and carefully work the sticker back down making sure the tape stays tight and once the sticker make contact with the blank carefully work down the decal making sure no air pockets form.

Boy is this ever timely! - Jimi just whacked me with some small peel and stick - I am having a devil of a time trying to figure out a way to trim, separate and place. I am too used to the ease and placement of waterslides - I am wondering if you leave excess around the edge when applied over finish can the edge be cut after application and pulled off after it is placed? On a small one is there any way to get the sticker to release from the backing without picking around and messing up the edge. I was wondering about exposting to steam slightly from a steam iron. Any tricks would be highly apprecialted.

Deb and Jimi those things are really "pretty" and I hope you enjoy this thread as you sit there sipping your coffee and listening to Allison Kraus! Seems like your are the one messing with people's minds this week by shipping out goodies!

Gon Fishn



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2007 09:47AM by Bill Stevens.

I'll leave a little extra on one side where I'll pick the backing off, If it gets messed up from trying to get the backing off I'll take an exacto knife and cut the messed up area off after the decal is applied, usually it is just along the border.

Bill,

They are super hard to seperate!! I have used a razor blade in the past, but it's tricky and a PIA......if you find a backing removal system before Thurs eve.....let me know!

Fred, sometimes you get a little more from the people that USE the products everyday, versus the persons that create them.

DR



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2007 11:54AM by Duane Richards (DR).

This thread is why I use waterslides!!!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

I have found an easy way to separate the backing from the transfer. I usually leave one side of the decal longer than the other when trimming the decal to size. Looking at the decal from the top I use a razor blade to make a perpendicular cut (on the longer side) through the decal but not all the way through the backing. At this point you can bend the decal at the cut (it should separate at the cut) and you should be able to pull the tab and backing off to expose the adhesive side of the decal. As for installing on the rod you're on your own.

Thanks Mark I needed that one - that was the trick that I was looking for. Jimi I know you are watching this with great interest. I think Mark's tip solved the problem that I have been pestering you for the past three days. I am glad to find out that I am not the only one that can not easily remove the paper from the back of the thing! Back to the plain old Invisilines!

Absolutely, Thank you Mark!!

I have the finish on and I'll tackle the decal tomorrow eve.........

DR

The guys who build RC model planes deal with decals all the time. I haven't been to those forums (fora?) recently to remember the exact techniques but I recall that they area spray where the decal is to go with Windex, then peel and slide the decal into exact place and finally work the Windex out from under the decal. This is from memory and may not be correct, but perhaps someone who knows of this technique can give the exact method. Scale RC guys are extreme sticklers for exact placement and their decals are pretty intricate at times.

Cheers

Larry

Larry,

That is what I was talking about when I mentioned soap and water. I've done that on many large solid decals, but not a clear backed one and I didn't know if the added soap may be harmfull to the decals clearness.

DR

Larry we are dealing with an entirely different animal in test mode. I am trying to get a highly complex colored decal without doing a lot of expensive tracing and file creation which is required in doing a waterslide. Decal Connection is being very helpful in trying to find a new way to do this type of work in a cost effective manner. These stickers are stunning and if we can find a way to work with them as easily as waterslides we will be in business. Take a look at the graphic I dealing with - Placement and alignment of graphics is quite crucial on a custom rod and Decal Connection is really helping us work this methodology out. Gain takes pain and boy do I have a headache trying to get these things placed straight, bubble free and with no fingerprints.

Water and soap under this thing is not an option.

[images.google.com]

And yes we do have written copywrite permission!!

Gon Fishn



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2007 08:25PM by Bill Stevens.

Yes Bill I am watching and drinking coffee but I am listening to Michael Cleavland ( he knows he can kick some rear on the fiddle). Alison does slip in now and then.

I do test many ways of applying decals, (both waterslide and Peel n Stick) but some of the results I can not comment on until every part of the process has been completed.

I am waiting on a new rod dryer motor to complete some testing to check clarity of decals. There are some some industrial type solutions (surfactants) that we use in placing vinyl decals at SouthernGrafix and I am testing them on Peel n Stick decals at this time.

I will follow up with the dryer motor later today.

Bill, Thanks for the comment s about your latest decals, they did look good.

I was just discussing with Chuck last night on the Peel n Stick decals and I think he is going to add something the Peel n Stick decals that will make life easier on those types of decals.

If there are any questions that you guys and dolls have with decals or have any suggestions, please feel free to contact me at:

techsupport@decalconnection.com or orders@bill-mardecals.com

Jimi I have no clue as to what you are testing but be careful - many of the industrial surfactants will contain small amounts of Dow Corning silicone agents which act as friction reducers. After you find one that works be sure and test a few of the finishes over the top to insure that they do not fisheye. I am going to insure and gurantee the success on the placement of the "Masked Rider" decal by "allowing" the customer who is paying for them to make the placement!

I have no problem with alignment of the holographic fish ones that are burnished into place. Could the peel and stick decals be placed on the same type material?

Gon Fishn