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Re: Carbide Reamer Grit
Posted by:
Karry Batson
(---.olympus.net)
Date: September 21, 2007 05:56PM
Those rings are a bear to ream and I recomend any one using them to ream them out Individually and then glue them up after.
Like I said I use mine in a drill and it rocks. Could I break it in the drill, Yes maybe and if I do then I will just buy another one and learn a lesson not like rod building has any lessons to learn, LOL! I personally will never hand ream again period! Wow I remember back about fifteen years ago using the old school hand reamers and most of them would last about two rods at best not to mention the blisters I would get and then having to glue new grit on or even just buying a new one so not to deal with the mess. I even tried to chuck a few in a drill and smashed them. If I added up all the time and money I have spent on cork reamers in the last twenty years I could have bought ten dream reamer kits. But in the last four years we have been developing this product I have only used a grand total of four and still using them. Not a bad deal at all if you look at it that way I think. These reamers in my opion are worth there weight in Gold and I'm positive most will agree. Have a great Weekend everybody its time to go Fishing. Re: Carbide Reamer Grit
Posted by:
Mike Barkley
(---.try.wideopenwest.com)
Date: September 21, 2007 10:11PM
I agree whoeheartedly! I use them exclusively and if I broke one, I would buy another. I don't hand ream at all. Andy's burl is tougher than wood or acrylic but I still ream the grips with the Dream Reamers. Slow but it works.
One thing that I DON'T do is start reaming a 1/4" hole when My blank butt is 1/2"! That's asking for to much. I drill out my rings close with Flexcoat bits and glue them and put them on a mandrel to shape/sand and THEN ream for final fit.. For instance, I will bore my rings with a 3/8" FC bit (about 3 seconds each) glue/clamp on a piece of threaded rod and transfer to a mandrell to shape/sand then ream the finished grip to fit. With wood/acrylics, etc. I bore out to 3/8" and ream to fit Mike (Southgate, MI) If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!! Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/21/2007 10:18PM by Mike Barkley. Re: Carbide Reamer Grit
Posted by:
Bob Balcombe
(---.dyn.centurytel.net)
Date: September 23, 2007 07:28AM
I use mine under power and have had no problem reaming standard cok or Burl cork, I ream slowly and continuely move my reamer back and forth removing all dust particals. By doing this it helps remove any heat build up. Back when I built my own reamers using grite and old solid glass blanks , I found out early if I used high speeds and pressed hard I would create enought heat I would melt the rod and even burn my cork. The Batson reamer is a excellant tool if used correctly. I have had mine for about 8 months and I am still on my first reamer paper. I build all my grips one ring at a time.
Good Wraps Bob Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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