Can anyone point me to a resource for fishing kayak info - frehswater ponds and lakes, mostly? Other than building a rod to match your quarry, I'm assuming kayakers also need to be concerned with rod length to maneuver around long kayaks, and maybe something special for a leash attachment?

About the only difference when it comes to specialty kayak rods does indeed regard rod length (you have to be able to get the rod tip around the bow or stern of the yak if a fish moves to the opposite side) and if you intend to attach a rod leash it is helpful to have something on the rod to attach it to.

Further ideas:

home.earthlink.net/~fishingkayaks


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Steven,

I have been pondering rods for this application also. Though I fish inshore, there are a few things we both need to think about. Kayakers are notorious highstickers! Mostly because we are sitting on the water and there is little room for the tip of the rod between shoulder level and the water, but probably out of some carelessness as well. I also see lots of bent tips straight up in the air out there when the guys are landing fish. The longer the rod...the harder to get the fish to you, though as Tom pointed out it helps get fish around the boat. Personally I think 8' and over is too much rod on a yak... I would have to think that fiberglass will stand up better to the kinds of abuse rods take on a kayak. (the above and clacking together in the rod holders) Think about rod storage beside your flush mounts which will submerge your reels every time you hit a wave or boat wake. Just some thoughts from a new rod builder but old kayak fisherman.

by the way everyone...I have not figured out which jig stick blank to use to build my 7'6" yet. Any ideas on blanks or on what properties in a tip would help it stand up to highsticking? I am seriously thinking about cutting 6" off the tip or butt of one of the standard 8' jig blanks. Please inform if that is BAD!
(my shameless plea for the day)

Bill

Cutting that much off the tip will remove most of the action. It will become a pretty slow rod. But it'll be less susceptible to high sticking damage for sure.

......

[www.allkayakfishing.com]
[topkayaker.net]
[www.norcalkayakanglers.com]
just started yakin myself

Let's fish,
Chris

Steven Libby Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Can anyone point me to a resource for fishing
> kayak info - frehswater ponds and lakes, mostly?
> Other than building a rod to match your quarry,
> I'm assuming kayakers also need to be concerned
> with rod length to maneuver around long kayaks,
> and maybe something special for a leash
> attachment?


[www.texaskayakfisherman.com]

kayakfishingstuff.com
is a treasure chest of information on just about every aspect of the sport.
Dave

[www.blueridgekayakfishing.com] has a lot of great kayak fishing information from a guy who specializes in trophy bass in MD and VA reservoirs and rivers.

You'll find that as with everything, each person has their own likes and dislikes. I've fished with some awesome kayak fishermen. One prefers 5'6" rods, the next guy likes them 8' long (fishing for the same species with basically the same techniques).

There is nothing too special that you need in a yak rod. The only thing that comes up consistently, mostly from guys fishing from sit in kayaks, is the desire to have the reel seat closer to the rod butt to keep from catching the butt of the rod on the lip of the spray skirt.

If you talk to kayak fishermen, the most important feature in a kayak rod is butt length. The rear handle should not be over 8 inches, however, it shouldn't be much under 7 inches so that it will fit in flush mount rod holders. As far a length, it should only be long enough to let the tip clear the bow under load. This becomes a function of kayak length since a 12 foot kayak would only need about 6 foot, but a 16 foot kayak could need as much as 7'6". Anything over 7'6" becomes a problem with high sticking since you are usually landing a fish right next to you in a sitting position.

There is much debate on fly rods. Some people say longer rods so you can keep the line off the water. They would recommend 9'6" to 11' rods. To my way of thinking, this is courting disaster, again due to high sticking. For fly rods I would recommend 8' to 8'6" rods with a fast action. With proper technique you can keep the line off the water. You just have to be real careful landing fish. My favorite kayak rod is a Scott Heliply at 8'8", which is relatively fast and tough as nails. I'm not sure what type of blank would match its speed and toughness.

I tend to build the rods to do what I need them to do, and then rig my kayak to accommodate the rods I use.

I'm not sold on the idea of building rods to accommodate the rod holders and that sort of thing. Has always seemed backwards to me.

...............

Much better to build rod holders to accomodate rods. Mine are straight behind the seat (pvc). Tall enough to keep reels dry in small surf and chop, and as out my way as possible like a quiver. I have heard of guys who's butt caps didn't fit into rod holders.

I have been experimenting with moving the reel up and down to find what is the most comfortable and efficient rear grip length for me ... Seems like about 10" while sitting in my yak in the yard. Still need to do some test casting to find the effects of rear grip length on my kayak casting. I'll have to wait until I can get in the water as I am sure my neighbors would look with disdain at a Taddy 45 landing in the middle of their family BBQ, followed by my waggly tailed Golden Retriever. Still I am beginning to believe that ideal handle lenght on a kayak is no different than any other rod.

BTW thanks Tom for talking me out of cutting the tip..



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/19/2007 12:25PM by Bill Lane.