I know this is covered in Rodmaker, but don't have access to them right and won't for a month or two when I get back home. I just received my first Flex Coat Pilot drill bit for helping out reaming foam arbors, and now there is a reverse bit that you work in reverse.

Was there an issue with the original pilot drill bits? Why the change to reverse?

Thanks,
Phil

The only reason I can see would be to minimise tearing when you drill conventionally. This may be the case when you try to drill out a large increase in diameter, instead of doing it in 2 or 3 steps. The reverse bits do this with a sharpened taper edge, which kinda carves out a bit at a time, allowing you to go from 1/4 " to a large ID with one bit, no tearing, no worries. Just a time saving bit I guess (no pun intended).

The original Pilot Drill Bits were developed for reaming our foam arbors that are about four inches long. It was then discovered that they did a fair job of reaming cork grips too but you were greatly limited by the short length of the drill bit. Also pre-shaped cork grips come with various size I.D. holes larger than a quarter inch, the size of the pilot on the bit.

Then we discovered that the length problem could be solved by going the the 16in. long bits and the various size I.D.s could be taken care of with masking tape arbors on the shank of the bit. Almost all I.D. holes in pre-shaped are as large or larger than the shank size of the 16in. bits. The bit is turned around and pulled through the grip in reverse, that is where the name comes from. The electric drill is run in forward mode but you are pulling the bit through the grip instead of pushing it through. Finally we found by grinding the the bottom edges of the spade made the cutting of cork easier and cleaner than pushing the original Pilot Drill Bits through cork grips.

Tom did a real good explaination in RodMaker magazine, check it out if you can. If anyone has any additional questions feel free to call us at 512-858-7742. Ask for Roger, he likes to talk to rod builders on the phone.

John Anderson
Flex Coat Co., Inc.

Exactly, one is for boring arbors and one is for boring longer cork grips. Having the proper tool for the job never hurts.

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Ah... ok. I see now. Didn't realize the new bits were for grips vice arbors. Thanks!

I have a set of six 16" spade drill bits that I bought for less that $10 at Northern Handyman. A couple of these I modded (1/4" tubbing attached to point) for boring cork in the "usual" manner, never thought about pulling these bits "backwards" through the cork grip. I'll be grinding an edge onto these as soon as I build a jig for the grinder.

Lou

Tried my first use of the Flex Coat spade bit last night. Just love how nicely it went through the foam. I didn't know about using the bit pulled backwards for the cork. I will have to try that. I did however, reverse the direction of the drill turning the bit in reverse. Worked much better.

Kevin,

Read that article in RodMaker about "pulling" the bits through cork. They need a simple modification to the BACK side of the bit before you do it. The bit you have is made to work from the front as it sits.

Mark Griffin
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C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California