Hello all,

I have 2 part question:

1. Where do I buy denatured alcohol? I have removed some labels from blanks and cant get the remaining glue off. I have tried rubbing alcohol, but no good. Will denatured handle this?

2. I have used cork rings glued on rod in past to make grips. On 2 new rods i am going to be starting i have purchased preformed grips. what is the process for gluing these on. Seems like if i glue on blank and then rotate grip in place will it not just push all glue down rod, or will enough get inside grip to hold it? do i just wipe down any residue on blank with the denatured alcohol? Planning on using Rod bond for this task. Just worried about the holding of the grip thats all. I actually will be using the top locking Fuji spinning handle kit for these 2 rods.

Thanks for the help I am still only on my 6th built rod. Great Site!!!

Dave

Best bet for removing stubborn label residue are products like "Goo Gone" and "Citri-Solve." None of the alcohols really work on the more stubborn lable adhesives.

On the grips, you need to put your glue up above where you intend them to reside. Bring the grip down and over the blank where the adhesive has been placed and swirl and turn the grip so that the inside is coated with adhesive. Then push it into place. You will want to ream the ID of the grip so that on a dry fit it will fall to within about an inch of where you want it placed. Cork won't stretch like EVA or Hypalon, so you want to ream the bore so that it's a pretty close fit to begin with.

.............

Tom,

Great answers as always!! That is what I thought on the grips issue. Just was concerned regarding the internal glue coverage. will those 2 products remove the rod bond reisdue off the blank once i slide grip into place? Or if not what would you recomend

No, use alcohol for removing wet epoxy.


...........

Thanks Tom will my isopropyl work or do i need denatured

Goo gone is very good. I have also had good luck using lighter fluid.

Thanks for the info RM.....Where would i get goo gone? Home depot or someplace like that?

What is the difference between "Denatured" and "99% Isop" anyways? (always wondered that)

Dave,

I get my Denatured Alcohol from the local Ace hardware store's paint department. It's commonly found in any paint dept. Big Box Hdwe, Wally World, etc...) along with Acetone, Mineral Spirits, Paint Thinner, etc... They'll most likely have "Goo Gone" in the same aisle.

I go back to the corner Hardware Store because they sell "screw top" cans. I could probably save a $1 or $2 a quart at Lowes or Depot, but they sell those blasted "flip top" cans that need to be pried open with a screw driver. Seems like any time in need Alcohol in a hurry I can't put my hands on a screwdriver to get the darn can open.

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

Tom:

I'd have to bet dollars to donuts he's talking about the flexcoat layer over the decal that rubbing alcohol won't soften up before trying to remove. BUT in this case as ammended a 2nd time, I am wrong and glad Tom is not a betting man

I'd try soaking a small rag segment with denatured alcohol (which can be purchased at any paint store or dept; of your major box chain grocery/department store) then wrap it around the effected area and cover with seran wrap as denatureed alcohol evaporates before your eyes. Let work fora time then go in a try to remove. repeat if necessary.

Some times even if you apply the rod bond correctly as Tom described, as you near the spot where the grip needs to be located you screet the glue away from one end or the other. Or when reaming the grip to fit the blank you left a void or a narrow bit in the grip I.D. that may inhibit coverage or screet the glue. Blank prep i.e. achieving a condition of a water-break-free surface (a light yet uniform sanding) on the blank allows/urges the adhesive to self spread (with thinner adhesives than rod bond) But sometimes we can't achive this perfected end, so if that happens I use a 1-1/2" syringe to shot thin 90 min 2-part adhesive into the possible area where glue maybe lacking, or where a void may have been reamed into the grip I.D.. A Sz 18g needle woks best, but are hard to find, I had to special order 100 from Grogans. Angle the needle down onto the blank surface via a cork pit, don't obscure the needle opening, load the void up with glue and work around massaging it about with the loose play in the grip itself, where you noticed the problem in the 1st place.

This is not neccessary in the perfect How-to world Tom describes SO BUY HIS BOOK , OR SPECIFIC ROD MAKER MAG ISSUE CONTAINING A CORRESPOINDING IN DEPTH ARTICAL AND ACHIEVE THAT END then forego the elaborte means necessary to fix a bad procedural habit.

Denature Alcholo is often uesed as camp stove fuel, it evaporates a bit faster than isoprophol.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2006 01:21PM by Chris Karp.

I repair rods and build rods also. What type of glue was used? if epoxy base, I use a lighter or alcohol burner. Be careful not to have flame direct on rod but off the side.To much heat will weaken blank, the epoxy will blister and you can pick off or rub off.Their will be remaining residue which i sand off with super fine sand paper,(automotive sanding wet /dry type 1500- 2000 grit) Testors has hobby sanding films for sanding,which is super fine, that works good.Used it to sand epoxy finish to remove ruff points. Put new epoxy over and can not see any sanding marks.Also used on polyester casting resin, which I use for makeing butt caps,reel seats,etc.
P.S I sand with a rod turner running, If you put to much pressure while sanding, epoxy will turn gummy and ball up under sand paper, so take you time and lightly sand, cool and sand again. Clean dust off with alcohol. If other glue like label glue , I use goof, goo gone. Clean with alcohol .good luck.

I get my denatured alcohol at a drug store. More expensive, but rubbing alcohol will leave a oily film when used. To test your alcohol put a little on a good clean sheet of paper and let dry. If there is a spot it has an oily additive

thanks all for the great help. The label I removed from rod was the white Rainshadow label on bottom of rod. I just peeled label off and could not get all glue residue off with the iso alcohol i was trying. Thanks again for all the tips and insight.....I pass ACE right on way home i will check them out.


Dave

You may think I'm some kind of a crackpot, but. . . I've used peanut butter quite often to remove problem labels. No!!! It doesn't matter if it's crunchy or creamy.

"Life is to short to fish with Ugly rods."

LOL.....Havent thought of that, but I have used that to get gum out before.....hmmmmm

I put my alcohol in a spray bottle. Less mess.

Denatured alcohol is a blend of methanol and ethanol, the blend being created in order to make it poisionous. If it was safe to drink, you couldn't buy it at the local paint or hardware store. It's a tad bit stronger solvent than IPO and is also sometimes used as alcohol stove fuel.

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Re: About solvents Cliff Hall 01-04-2005 11:15AM
[www.rodbuilding.org]

There are many Posts on this subject (Solvents, Alcohol, Acetone, etc.).
Here's a brief refresher and some definitions .

DENATURED ALCOHOL = 91% ETHANOL + 5% METHANOL + 4% WATER

ETHANOL = the "ALCOHOL" found in beer, wine & liquor.

METHANOL = the "WOOD" alcohol. Highly toxic when ingested.

ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL = the "rubbing alcohol". Usually 70% or 91%.

ACETONE = the "nail polish remover" ketone. Powerful solvent.

METHYL ETHYL KETONE = the "MEK" ketone found in brush cleaner.

ALCOHOLS and KETONES are different types of organic solvents.
Generally, alcohols are safer than ketones, and sufficiently strong
solvents for most clean-up applications in rod building.
All organics solvents should be used with ventilation.
Skin contact should be avoided. All these solvents are flammable.

- Cliff Hall, Bach.Sci. Chemistry & bench-top chemist for 14 years. -

For even more information, see the Thread:
"ACETONE? NOT on YOUR HANDS !!!" [Cliff Hall 10-19-04 03:01]
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Have used WD-40 to remove the gummy stuff, but would not even suggest it around threadwork, or a rod building work area that might be contaminated, seeing as Gum-out was mentioned I will intordues it.

I use Simple Green to get rid of most label residue and then follow-up with a wipe of alcohol or naptha (i.e. lighter fluid).

Dave,
Isopropyl alcohol(C3H7OH) and denatured alcohol are not the same. Denatured alcohol is mostly ethanol(C2H5OH) (found in beer, moonshine, whiskeys, and wine). It is denatured by adding methanol(CH3OH) (very toxic) and/or other compounds that are also toxic. Under no circumstances should denatured alcohol be consumed--you can die from it. The main reason it is made poisonous is to evade the alcohol tax on ethanol.

Mike Blomme