I have been reading a lot of messages where rod builder are using acetone for thinners and cleaners. In my reading of rod building many writers (clemens, quinn and others say not to use acetone for cleaning and even should not be in the world of rod building.. What I would like to know. Has there been any testing or information as to what harm acetone causes to graphite blanks, fiberglass or wrapping finish.
I use completely denatured alcohol (90%) for all my cleaning, and warm up my finishing products.

Probably open a can of worms here, but, personally, I wouldn't have acetone in my shop! Wht bother since denatured alcohol will do anything that I need done with out the additional risk. I don't thin anything!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Acetone is a bit stronger than anything you really need for common rod building chores. Isopropyl and denatured solvent alcohols will handle 99% of anything that needs handling.

Now if you do choose to thin an epoxy, which the epoxy manufacturers strongly recommend that you don't, acetone is the preferred agent because it's very volatile and will tend to evaporate and leave the mix before the epoxy sets enough to trap anything in there. But again, thinning epoxy is not recommended by those who formulate and manufacture it.

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Just a added note Acetone well also retard the epoxy drying time. Also if you get too much Acetone in the mix the finish well never dry or it well become soft and never cure correctly. I am talking from direct experience
Good Wraps Bob

By all means not of scientific quality a couple or three years ago I performed a little expirement to either confirm or dispel what was being said about acetone. Basically I cut up pieces of blank and soaked them in acetone for various lengths of time. I posted the results here, do a search and you'll find the post.

Though I have acetone (and MEK) at hand near my rod building bench I do not use it for much. If you need thin finish get a lite finish to begin with and save yourself the trouble of thinning the stuff.

Lou

Re: rebuilding a store bought rod help
Posted by: Lou Reyna ... June 29, 2006 05:45PM
[www.rodbuilding.org]
"Steve, a few years ago after reading repeated posts that acetone will quickly damage a rod blank I performed a little expirement with small 1" pieces of both fiberglass and graphite blank and two jars half-full of acentone and MEK. I soaked pieces of blank both for progressively longer periods of time - removed one of the pieces of blank soaking in jars about every 15 min. I posted the results here." ETC, ...

I did some test about a year ago like you did. I found the the fiber glass piece started to flower at the end, the graphite piece showed like some fibers had sweld. I used pieces about 2 inch long,sanded th finish off each and put in a glass container for two days. The acetone was acetone from a hardware store, not the nail polish remover type which is thinned with water. Just wondered if anyone has heard of any tests. thanx kenny

Ken,
Before the development of graphite blanks, rod blanks were made from wood, bamboo, steel and most commonly fiberglass. Most fiberglass balnks were not coated. The ones I used were Conolon (later Garcia Conolon), Harnell, and SilaFlex. These banks were not coated and acetone and methylethylketone AKA 2-butanone or MEK were commonly used to remove bits of varnish, the most commonly wrapping finish, and liquid rod cement (similar to Plio Bond). These blanks were impervious to acetone or MEK. They were safe to use as long as you used them in well ventilated areas.

When 3M company came out with graphite rod blanks, I purchased one and while cleaning the butt section up with acetone prior to putting on a decorative butt wrap, I noticed that I couldn't get a bit of adhesive to come off. It took me several minutes to recognize that the coating on the blank was softening and peeling off. Since tthat experience I never use Acetone or MEK to clean a blank.

It is essential that after any finishing or gluing operation to remove all glue or finish that is not where you want it. Using denatured or isopropyl alcohol before curing occurs makes this task rather simple. I keep 70%, 91%, and 99% isopropyl alcohol as well as denatured alcohol in my shop area for that purpose. I begin with the 70% and migrate to the 99% as the job requires it.

Like the others, I don't think you need to have Acetone or MEK around your shop.

If you go to the search button of this forum, you can get a load of information on the health effects of these solvents. Alternatively you can go to google or Yahoo and type in the name of the solvent and MSDS and you can find MSDS sheets that give you an abundance of health information about the solvent.

Mike Blomme

I try to do everything that I can with alcohol (just ask my wife how much...).

There are just a few things that I use acetone for simply because the alcohol doesn't quite do the job. Having worked in the safety field, it's just always been my thought to use the gentlest, safest method first, then progress to what's actually necessary when that fails. Minimize exposure, use no more than necessary, and use good ventilation just to be on the safe side. It does have a place in there, albeit a small spot for me.

Putter
Williston, ND

Putter,

At least you are alive and well!! Your advise about acetone is excellant. In three years of rodbuilding I have used about one pint of acetone. I do not touch blanks with acetone!

Ed Smith

Hi Putter Are you going to be in Woodland in April? You are correct about using adequate ventilation when using Acetone. The stuff well play @#$%& with your lungs
Good Wraps Bob

Trondak's U-40 Brush Cleaner is my favorite solvent for anything that exceeds the limits of Isopropyl Alcohol. There is no need to put myself at risk with dangerous chemicals when I have U-40 Brush Cleaner on the shelf. A little goes a very long way. I tip my hat to Ralph O'Quinn for developing this great product.

Dave

I've been in the Advanced Composite repair field for the last 25 years. We have found that Acetone leaves a film on the surface that could affect the bondline adhesion of the repair. So all we use now is isopropyl alcohol for clean ups around the the repair areas. If this is what we do on supersonic aircraft rod makers take heed.

Good advice - read the article in the online library on water-break-free surface preparation. Wiping with a solvent is never the last step before applying adhesive.

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