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silk thread
Posted by: Steve Gardner (---.dyn.embarqhsd.net)
Date: July 24, 2006 01:20PM

I'm thinking about using some silk thread on some smaller lighter rods I'm working with.
Have not used any ever, so I was looking for some input. as to strength, longevity, color fastness, how well it takes epoxy, and PLACE TO BUY SOME?



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/2006 01:21PM by Steve Gardner.

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: Spencer Phipps (---.onsemi.com)
Date: July 24, 2006 03:05PM

Good stuff, takes epoxy well. Angler's Workshop, Mudhole, and I'm sure others have it, along with any tips & tricks you may need. Angler's was the people who helped me.

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: Raymond Adams (---.hsd1.ca.comcast.net)
Date: July 24, 2006 09:42PM

I have ony used silk once and had problems with fuzzies.
Didn't have any problems with CP or epoxy finish though.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: Bruce Robb (---.fai.acsalaska.net)
Date: July 25, 2006 01:09AM

The only colors my daughter would approve for her rod were available in silk. No problelms, straight forward application. CP required or fades out under epoxy.

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: Mark Wendt (---.nrl.navy.mil)
Date: July 25, 2006 06:59AM

If you guys are having trouble with fuzzies on silk there, it's usually one of two problems. First, it could be the thread itself. SIlk threads like Gudebrod are made up from very short segments of silk, and the short segments tend to stick up and cause the fuzzies. Other silks like Pearsalls are made from much longer strands, and the chances of having fuzzies with them are just about nil. The second thing that could cause fuzzies is your thread tensioner. Silks don't like to be run through a tensioner the way other threads do, and the rubbing of the silk thread against the pieces of the tensioner can raise fuzzies. With silk threads, it's much better to tension the spool rather than applying tension to the thread. I use Pearsalls Gossamer thread for all my silk windings, and tension the spool. I've never had fuzzies on any of my wraps.

Mark

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: Steve Gardner (---.dyn.embarqhsd.net)
Date: July 25, 2006 07:12AM


Mark were do you buy the Pearsall’s Gossamer thread?

Do you also find that you have to use color preserver to prevent fading?

How does the silk hold up over time?

If I have to use CP, I will probable not use it as the guides I'm using are really small with little feet. and I would prefer the extra holding power of the epoxy directly on the threads

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: Mark Wendt (---.nrl.navy.mil)
Date: July 25, 2006 07:29AM

Steve,

I've been purchasing Pearsalls, both Gossamer and Naples from Russ at Golden Witch.

I don't use CP much, since I prefer the transparent look on the cane rods I make, however, on a few repairs/restorations that I've done, I have used CP and I've not noticed any fading of the colors. Depending on the final color match that I'm trying to get, I use model airplane dope, or one of the water based CP's that I've picked up here and there. Pearsalls seems to be pretty colorfast though, I think they use a pretty high end dye to tint their threads. Fly tiers for years have used Pearsalls silks, and I've seen a few flies from many moons ago that still have the vibrant silk color.

Well, silk has been in use for a long, long time on cane rods. As I mentioned in the previous paragraph, I've done a few restorations and repairs on old rods, one of them that was made in the early 1900's, and the silk was just as good as the day it was wrapped. As long as the threads are sealed with a good varnish, and water isn't allowed to get into the threads, they shouldn't rot and should hold up for a very long time.

Realize with silk, that if you don't use CP on some of the wraps, they will go transparent. Make up a test stick with the silks, and try a few different CP's until you get what you want.

Mark

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: mark brown (---.dyn.iinet.net.au)
Date: July 25, 2006 08:23AM

I highly reccomend silk as I ended up using it on all my graphite rods so far (only five), I have split some bamboo but haven't finished my forms as yet.

Pearsalls is very nice but it is remarkably fine.....YLI #100 and even 50# burnish up very nicely and are quite a bit easier to work with.

I really like the translucent look, just go a few hues brighter/gaudier than you want the final wrap to be and it usually mellows out nicely with varnish, I have not tried silk with epoxy but I imagine the results would be similar.

I do not think that you get a more durable wrap than silk finished with Permagloss and if you go with spar varnish the multiple coats are quite forgiving and with a bit of time you can get a beautifully clear wrap.

A lot of online sewing shops have YLI thread in 100#, 50# and 30# weights. I haven't had any problem with fuzzies using YLI so far although Pearsalls Gossamer is very nice you just have to be patient when you wrap with it and spend a lot of time getting your guide feet filed nicely.

I have been looking into Tire thread as it comes in 100#, 50#, 30#, 12#, and 8# weights as I am interested trying out some of the heavier weight silks (30#, 12#, 8#) on a surf and jigging blank and see how it turns out.

YLI 100# is reasonable at $5 a spool, finishes up nicely and is easy to work with, I have used it on 2 wgt to 9wgt fly rods and have been really pleased with the results. I wrapped one rod with Gossamer but will save the rest of the spools for my first bamboo rod.

Size comparisons
Pearsalls Gossamer (~6/0)
Pearsalls Naples (~4/0)
#100 YLI (~3/0)
#50 YLI (~2/0)
2/0 Gudebrod Silk
#30 YLI supposedly good for boat rods but have not tried it yet
Tire thread? comes in 100, 50, 30, 12 and 8 weight

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: Steve Gardner (---.dyn.embarqhsd.net)
Date: July 25, 2006 10:23AM

Have any of you guy's/gal's use epoxy on silk? That is what I will be using . unless it is a problem

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: Mick McComesky (---.boeing.com)
Date: July 25, 2006 11:24AM

Steve, I've used FC over silk without any problems.

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: Don Davis (199.173.224.---)
Date: July 25, 2006 04:04PM

Steve, I would go with a medium to dark colored #50 silk. #50 is easy to work with, but less diameter than A nylon. The Gudebrod does have fuzzies so stear clear. Golden Witch has a good range of silks from Tire and YLI. Light colors tend to go transparent. Medium colors can go pretty dark. You can use epoxy over silk, but varnish or polyurethane will give you a thinner coat. Do a test wrap on the butt of the rod to see if you like the color it turns. Without knowing the color of your blank, try a dark red, green, or blue. I often use black silk on graphite rods. Don

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Re: silk thread
Posted by: Peter Maltby (---.hsd1.ct.comcast.net)
Date: July 28, 2006 04:42PM

Arcane Pearsall's Gossamer 6/0 and Arcane Pearsall's Naples 4/0 ( larger diameter than the Gossamer). Really cool silk thread.

Of course there is Fishawk (Fuji company) and Gudebrod silk, but since prices are not much different, go with the Arcane Gossamer or Naples.


Recommend it, and we sell it.

Pete Maltby
ACK Fishing & Tackle LLC
Toll Free 866-285-0673

pmaltby@ackfishing.com




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/28/2006 04:45PM by Peter Maltby.

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