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ATC Clearcoat Lite Build vs. U-40 LS Supreme?
Posted by:
Hunter Armstrong
(166.61.238.---)
Date: March 18, 2006 03:37PM
It's time for me to buy more epoxy. In the past, I have used LS Supreme, which has done well for me. However, I would like to use a finish which is less viscous. In it's advertising literature, ATC makes such claims, but are they realistic? My experience is very limited and I would appreciate hearing from folks here.
In addition, my Gudebro Color Preserver has become very thick. I know I can dilute it with alcohol, but how thin can I go without reducing its efficacy. Please correct me, but I am under the impression when CP is applied, it should penetrate the wraps not coat them. Any help on these topics will be greatly appreciated! Tight lines, Hunter Re: ATC Clearcoat Lite Build vs. U-40 LS Supreme?
Posted by:
john timberlake
(---.triad.res.rr.com)
Date: March 18, 2006 04:49PM
i have used both and each works well. i personally like the atc better due to the fact you can flame it. i like to tinker with things and it helps when i get in a hurry and add bubbles or put it on too thick. if you havent tried threadmaster then you are missing out. you can get it just as thin as the others. good luck it seems everyone has their preference. get one you like and stay with it Re: ATC Clearcoat Lite Build vs. U-40 LS Supreme?
Posted by:
Joe Kassuba
(---.dhcp.knwk.wa.charter.com)
Date: March 18, 2006 06:40PM
Hello Hunter
Regarding thinning CP. Use caution when doing this as the solids in solution are what give the color preserving. The threads need to be saturated with CP. Remove the excess by wicking it off with a piece of paper towel or coffee filter. LS Supreme is pretty low viscosity but if the ultimate low viscosity finish is desired consider using U40 PermaGloss. It is water clear and very tough, much tougher than epoxy. Quick drying to the touch and can be recoated to achieve a lite build look. Apply Pemagloss using one lite first coat that saturates the thread. Allow each coat to dry till it is tack free before recoating. This is usually about and hour. If to thick a coat is applied bubbles can occur due to solvent escaping as the polymer cures. LS supreme and LS High Build can be warmed but not flamed. LS Supreme dissipates bubbles very well due to it's low viscosity. These finishes are designed to allow bubble to escape when applied 68 to 72 deg F. In the mixing of epoxy is when most bubbles accur. So learning to mix such that bubbles are minimized will help no matter what epoxy finish is used. There is a very good article in the recent Rodmaker mag that will help to become a better finishers. Is is worth the read. Sincerely Joe Kassuba HIS Rod Shop Re: ATC Clearcoat Lite Build vs. U-40 LS Supreme?
Posted by:
Hunter Armstrong
(166.61.238.---)
Date: March 20, 2006 12:32PM
Thanks for the above advice. This site is a great resource.
Tight lines, Hunter Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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