I want to build one of these rods i would like to get some info on what components i need to use, like the length of cork, reel seat types, and what kind of guides to use ( style). any info would be helpful.

Thanks

Doug

doug,

Have you used a pin before?

Most people start with slip rings until they have their reel picked out and know where they like their seat. Once you have that set for your style of fishing, then usually guys will switch to a fixed seat. The grips depend on how you like to fish. Most slip rings seats are 20" or so. Most fixed seats will total that. Some guys like the seat in the middle, some up front (me), some in the far back. it depends on the reel, the rod, and the angler.

For guides, traditional float rods use match guides (m-frames) to the tip. Start with a #25 and use one of each size down to a #4 or #5. Then use that size to the tip. Personally, I prefer to use Fuji Concept guides as they are lighter. I'l go one each from #25 Y-frame (or the new I frame) down to a #10. Then I'll use running guides to the tip in a #7. You'll save weight over M-frames with the concepts.

Thanks,
Rick

I've built a few, all on the Rainshadow 13' blank. My first was a traditional grip - 7" fore and rear. My next 3 have all been non-traditional, moving the reel forward to help balance, but as another builder put it to me, any 13' float rod is going to be tip heavy. I turned my own grips and I've tried to use heavier materials (i.e. rubberized cork / burl cork), especially towards the butt, to add weight and help balance. I've built my first 3 with M guides, but this next time around I'm trying traditional spinning guides just to see what, if any difference there might be.

For the record centerpinning is MIGHTY addictive!

FWIW,

MP

As stated prior, you need to find what you like about the reel seat position before creating a rod that you can call "perfect". I own a Raven 13'6" 3 PC with a uplocking graphite reelseat and recently have constructed my own two peice on a RainShadow 2Pc 11'6" blank. I forget the model number, but it is the lightest action of the 11'6" RS Float rods.

On the RS, I decided to make a split butt grip and in doing so, extend the reel seat up the blank a few inches over normal. The bottom starting edge of the reelseat on this rod is 13" off the butt of the blank. Which, in the way I hold the rod and fight fish, is perfect for me. I use an old Adcock Stanton CP reel that is a 5 inch diameter and a tad on medium side of weightyness. I ended up using a reverse half wells cork foregrip that I trimmed the bottom section (or hump) of the half ways down almost in half so that the transition to the toplocking portion of the reelseat is almost flush. This aides in the way I cast and feels good in the grips. I could have almost eliminated half of the foregrip, becasue I find myself rarely using the top half of it, if ever.

balance is an issue. WIth my Raven, the rod is very top heavy. You're forced to keep that rod as erect as possible or it'll wear on you after a day of fishing. The weight becomes noticeable. On the RS, because of the reduce length and the lighter action of the rod...it is much lighter in the hand. Also, a trick that a friend of mine suggested, you could always put the fighting butt on last and use that as an opportunity to insert lead weights into the end of the cork before caping it as a way to enhance the balance of the rod.

Things to consider when you make up your rod.

Having fishe almost exclusively with a float rod and center pin reel I would say that added weight to achieve balance is only going to give you a different pain in a different place. The length of these rods causes a fair bit of strain period, adding weight will just change the problem not solve it. My arm is real sore at the end of a long day, especially if the fishing is slow.

A thought; If you add a 1/4 lb. to balance your rod and an average day involves a thousand casts. You will have lifted 250 lbs more than if you left the weight out.

Match Guides or High Frames are the norm with center pin reels, I have always used a guide wrapped at the tip as opposed to traditional tip tops. I began using this method with my float rods and now have built a number of ultra-light and fly rods using guides for tip tops. Don't skimp on the guides, if your sliding tiny floats in clear water you want the smoothest guides you can afford. Kind of pointless to attach such a fine action reel to poor quality, slower guides. I haven't tried using glue to hold the unwrapped guide until thread can be applied, that method would overcome my biggest problem with guides as tip tops, that being getting the guide taped and stable enough to even begin wrapping.

I have always used slip rings, for weight reasons. If you find they don't stay in place well enough lay a piece of non corrosive wire along the handle parralel to the reel foot. Make the wire long enough to extend past the outer ends of the slip rings. Once you have settled on location of your reel, snug up the rings as tight as possible, bend the wire to trap the rings and cut of any excess. I grew tired of tape that left residue on both my hand and the rod. I have no trouble with the wire and have kept my rod weight as low as possible. Reel seats hold the reel much better and thats a huge plus with pricey float reels but they don't make the rod fish any better.

I have always thought of these rods as extra long ultra-lights, try not to over build them. Bells and whistles just add weight and really don't do much to improve performance. I have seen many float rods with almost no handle, just enough to seat a reel and maybe a tiny fore grip placed around the spot where traditional handles extend to. Match Rods are very similar to Float Rods and many have little or no handle at all. Unlike other Steelhead and Salmon rods a person finds them self holding the rod and reel in a very specific position for the period of the drift. At the end of the season when I clean the dirt build up off my rod handle the only place it collects is where my casting/drifting hand holds directly at the reel and right next to the hook keeper where I place my reeling hand during hard runs while fighting fish. In other words my hands don't touch the rest of the handle much if at all.

For me it's all about the most natural drift I can get(top quality guides and reel) and lowest possible weight.

Give Andy Sneddon a shout at Rodbuilder Supplies.

Pin rods,as well as longer drift rods(10+ft) are extremely popular out here in BC and I'm sure he would be able to help you out in this area.