I've got a question about superfine fly grips, where the thread wrap moves down from the blank and actually rides up over the beginning of the cork grip. I love the look and am building a 6' 2wt rod and would love to duplicate that but need advice on how to get that to work. I tried it on a cheap test grip not mounted to the blank, and I had a hard time getting the taper right, or to be even. If it's done after mounting to the blank, how do you prevent the blank from getting damaged? Is anyone using some type of mandrel to get the shape right then mount to blank? Thanks

If I'm following your question, I turn the grip to have a small blunt end. I mount it as normal. I then use 5 min epoxy to create a hosel/ramp from the blank to the grip. I keep the blank turning to get the epoxy to taper and level out. I let it dry and then sand any uneven spots and down to 1 thread width lower than the grip. I wrap the thread up the wrap and secure just like a guide wrap. There are probably easier/faster ways to do it, but I use this technique or similiar on all my rods rather than a winding check so its kind of a habit for me.

I do it exactly as Steve R. describes and it is very easy and works very well. Put some masking tape on the blank to prevent damage while sanding the hosel to final size and shape.

What I have done is mount the handle, with the rod bond that is left over, I smear it over where the handle tapers onto the blank. Let that dry, then after sanding I will figure where the thread will end up the cork, and put a coat of permagloss over the cork and onto the blank a little. Like the hard surface of the permagloss. Light scoff then wrap over.

I do it like the Steves, and then as Bill does, I add a coat of finish (I use varathane) so that the thread goes on easier. I have a heck of a time getting my thread to lay down nice and pack tight on the cork surface, seems easier for me when it is smoother with a coat of finish.

Mark Janeck
Custom Rods, Campbellville, Ontario

Paul:

I have been using a thread hosel for the last fifteen years. At first, I shaped the cork after gluing it to the blank. I used a 1-1/4 inch diameter piece of plastic pipe and glued two sandpaper strips parallel with the longitudinal axis. I used tape to protect the blank, and ground down the cork to the blank. I used 5-minute epoxy to finish off the joint between blank and cork. When the epoxy was hard, I used some fine wet-or dry with water to give a final finish to the cork and the taper to the blank.

Now, I do all the prep work on a mandrel. After cutting the cork to shape, I use the same type of 1-1/4 inch diameter tube to support the sand paper and cut the cork down to the mandrel. After reaming the cork to fit and gluing it to the rod blank, I still may have to use 5-minute epoxy as described above.

I wrap my thread from the blank up the cork, but because of the taper, you cannot do it very far. Use a light tension on the thread when you go up the cork. Tie off as normal and use your burnisher to get rid of the tag end.

Doug Weber
Weber Rod Works

Something else to consider. Cork is typically a far different color than the blank. If you aren't using CP, the thread over the cork will come out a slightly different color than the thread over the blank. To counteract this, I've made my "ramp" of cork and rod bond, then covered with thread the color of the blank. I then put color preserver on that thread, and coated it with a thin coat of LS Supreme. After that coat of LS dried, I scuffed it a little, then wrapped my normal thread color over it.

I like the little tip of putting on a coat of finish epoxy on before the thread wrap , I'll have to try that , thanks guys.......... JHD

Got Fish ?

Thanks for all the tips guys, I'm jazzed up now

Funny thing happened to me this weekend, two different Orvis rods experienced reel seat failure, I now have to re-epoxy a $400 rod back together. Jeez, I'm glad they're guranteed, but I can't wait that long!