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DIY wood insert stabilizing
Posted by: lane cobb (---.ev1.net)
Date: February 17, 2005 12:42PM

The thread a couple of weeks ago on "canning" an insert in wood hardener has intrigued me ever since. Mainly because I have a Struble B E Mable missing some varnish and has water damage, All my stabilized inserts remain perfect. I understand the safety issues in heating flamable products and I don't want to shuttle boiling water either.
Probably not many rodbuilders have a vacuum pump, but everyone has access to an air compressor. Anyone ever put a valve on a "mason jar" and conected a venturi style vacuum generator to reduce the pressure. Closing the valve would seal the partial vacuum. Seems a lot safer than the methods discussed.

The thrill is not in the kill

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Re: DIY wood insert stabilizing
Posted by: Christian Brink (---.dsl.aracnet.com)
Date: February 17, 2005 01:05PM

I tried the safe "hot-water" method, I just pulled my walnut blanks out yesterday. It seems to have worked well. But I won't be doing it anymore, the bigger problem was the cost. It took a little over half of a can of that minwax wood hardener for 2 reel seat blanks at $13 a bottle that was over $7 for 2 blanks.

I have sent my blanks to [www.stabilizedwood.com] and I figure I spend about $1 to $2 a reel seat blank to have them stabilized.

Christian


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Re: DIY wood insert stabilizing
Posted by: lane cobb (---.ev1.net)
Date: February 18, 2005 07:41PM

Christian, I just paid $9 for a pint of wood hardener. I do not have the equpment to make my own seats, so there is no volume. With a minimum order of $36 to have wood stabilized, it's a no brainer, and I get to make a new tool. :-)

The thrill is not in the kill

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Re: DIY wood insert stabilizing
Posted by: Ken Driedger (---.bchsia.telus.net)
Date: March 08, 2005 07:43PM

Minwax wood hardener ???? do they have a web page, so i can learn more? Thanks.

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