Hey guys thanks for all the help!!

This is a superior website Thanks to everyone.

Well I have my blank re painted my fuji ti sic guides have been prepped and my grip and reel seat are all set.

Im ready to tape the guides on per the factory charts and stress the rod ,

BUT, What am I looking for?, as Ive seen a rod bent like this many times but never payed much attention to the guides .

Thank you much Cuz im ,well ?????

Happy wraps
"John"

The line should roughly follow the curvature of the blank. On casting rods with guides on top, you would prefer that the line not touch the blank under load. If it does, then you may need to adjust spacing, add more guide/s or change guide frame style.

No matter what type rod you are building, the line should flow along with the blank without large flat spots between guides.

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Tom's got it right on the head. A simple test really, but can mean so much for good rod performance.
I've been taught something like 10 degrees angle or less deflection from the guide, but it's easier just to eyeball the curvature and how the line should easly be distributed through the guides, with distances preventing contact with the blank under load yet using just the right number of guides. Size of guides come less into play with static deflection testing, but that should also be your overall consideration for best line flow according to your blank and lure/line situation.

Rich
Solyrich Custom Rods.

Tom,

I just thought of something Am I doing the right test for a flyrod as the guides are under the rod and flat spots will always be except maybe smaller with extra guides added.

Still confused but see what your saying for a casting rod with guides up! Or do I use this test but flip the flyrod upside down to stress it?

More help please!! Happy wraps "John"

John,

I am brand new at this too, I have a suggestion for you and maybe you will not make the same mistake I did.

Tom Kirkman has a great book out called Rod-Building Guide that will explain the question that you asked but more so it explains the difference between a rod "builder" and a rod "assembler” unfortunately I assembled my first rod, only because I did not read his book until after I built it.

If you are looking to build a great rod, take the time and find out the difference between a builder and an assembler, I wish I had.
Clint Doak

Yes you will have some degree of flat spots, but by using enough guides you can minimize this to a great degree. If you flip the fly rod upside down and adjust the guides, or add enough guides, that the line does not touch the blank, you will be about right.

If you are using snake guides, however, you cannot keep the line off the blank in that position.

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Many thanks gents

It makes sense now . ill flip around and re position and test cast.



I am using fuji titanium sic single foots..


Happy wraps guys! "John"

I am an intermediate fly rod builder with maybe a dozen rods under my belt.

I always do a static deflection test on a fly rod. But I am not sure I think it is the most useful test.

Most important to me is that the line does not hit the blank when actually casting the rod. I do that first and look for places where I might get line slap. Usually due to oscillations coming though the first stripping guide, so I am a big fan of the 2 strippers close together.

Then I hold the rod out horizontally and look for big sags in the line. I think if the line sags a lot from gravity it increases the force necessary to get it though the guides. Balanced against that is the fact that each guide adds friction drag while it may reduce drag from line sagging. I use Tom's advise and go with as few of the SIC guides as I think I can.

Then I do the static deflection test and try small adjustments to get the angles about even with moderate to heavy loading on the rod.

I guess my only point is to look at the whole picture for a fly rod. Not just the static test. Probably not going to break a freshwater rod or rip a guide off just because the angles are a little out of kilter.

Can be a real problem if not done correctly. I had a rod actually break due to improper guide placement and this was on a blank noted for toughness! What I (as a relative newcomer) have noticed is that a move of 1/2 inch can make a big difference in rounding the line flow. Check some of your factory rods and I will bet you have some with angles over 10%.