i am working on an ultralight 5ft.1 pc blank and was wondering if anyone has tried a microwave setup on a blank this size. i am also doing my first split grip. Any ideas on reel seat placement?
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fishsticks
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I picked up a trash can blank at the show, and wondered if anyone could help id it. there is a tag on it that says SU 9600. Haven't had a chance to run any numbers yet. it is 9'6" long and seems parabolic. old batson maybe?
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If so, I haven't recieved my check that all family members are entitled to. lol
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Will anyone at the ICRBE have Janns NetCraft TiCh flexlite guides for sale? Any vendors wanna chime in with availability of 2-3 pc float rods at the show?
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I'm in need of a recipe for a 7 to 8ft spinning rod to use off a pier in Alantic Beach, NC. I have a cheap outfit for the smaller fish, what I am wanting is a better outfit for fighting bigger fish. I was thinking about using an older Shimano baitrunner reel spooled with 20-30lb braid. I will be lobbing(underhand) a bait fish(8"croaker,ect.) 40 yards or so out from the pier near the end. I'
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Thanx for the responses. I have a couple open face, a baitcaster, and a few fly rods. I just thought it might be a nifty little UL to have in the arsenal. Most the trout caught in my area are under 14-16 in. It would be a rare ocassion to catch trout exceeding 18in or bass over the 2 pound mark right here in front of my house. I live with in 100 yrds. of hatchery supported waters, and less t
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I want to use a Zebco trigger spincast(11plt) to fish for mostly trout and occasionally smallies under 3lbs. Will be throwing mostly Mepps #4 under brush, ect. I have a 5 foot no name graphite blank for this build. It's my understanding from a search on this forum, I need to build it as a spinning rod because the reel in "under slung" and hangs well below the blank. My questions are:
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I have never fished a center pin, no less built a center pin rod. If anyone has any advice it would be appreciated. I will be floating down the New River from Indepence Va. to NC state line. I will be targeting mostly smallies, however there are reports of a few musky in the area. I plan on using helgramite patterns, woolly buggers, lizard patterns, night crawlers, and crawfish patterns. I w
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Don't forget foam core covered in composite or carbon fiber sleeve?
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Jim, I think I can help with the fish eye eliminator. Fish eyes are a result of a contaminated SUBSTRATE, not the medium being used. When you add fish eye eliminator it evenly disperses the contamination. Not a good idea, most report of having to use fish eye eliminator in the next several jobs, or worse.
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Jim, I think I can help with the fish eye eliminator. Fish eyes are a result of a contaminated SUBSTRATE, not the medium being used. When you add fish eye eliminator it evenly disperses the contamination. Not a good idea, most report of having to use fish eye eliminator in the next several jobs, or worse.
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has anyone redone one of these fenwicks with new components? would it be worth 50 dollars if i could get my hands on one of these? i don't won't to redo this rod if its no "better" than today's 50 dollar blanks. do you guys think it would make a good mid flex blank to build on(minima's and carbon fiber grip)?
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Interesting, Tom. So if I'm using regular Rod Bond, the only purpose of the epoxy is to attach the actual arbor(or dry wall tape) to the blank and reel seat? So I don't need epoxy between my arbors? This would save considerable weight on ultra light rods and smaller fly rods! Do full length arbors over any advantages?
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Thank you guys for your help. The problem is that the end almost seems twisted. It's almost though it is crooked on both axis. It held fine during the static test, maybe I should just wrap it.
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Thanks bill!
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I was in the middle of stripping a fiberglass rod, when I noticed the top 3 in. was warped severely. I really have nothing to loose, so you think I should just trim the most important part of the blank? It's so distorted that I'm afraid to wrap as is. It's my rod, but I want to let a couple of guys who tie flies and guide, give it a whirl. Trim and then CCS again? I would also be interested
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Thanks, Tom. Total length +1 still a good starting point for static guide placement? Can't wait for the ICRBE! I live 30 min from Boone, but I'm thinking about making a weekend of the show this year. Any suggestions on hotels and do I need to book early?
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I am redoing a Bett's Tackle(St. Croix) fiberglass rod. The rod says 7'6" and there is a number on the rod 4607. I was wondering if this designated a 4 wt? It tested out(CCS) at 2.82 ERN and since it will be used for mostly stock trout and an occasional small smallie at casting distances less than 30 feet, should I overline(4wt.) or leave it be since its glass? Also can you use the CCS o
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Thanks George! Mind telling me where I can find a chart, ect?
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I purchased a 5 ft. 2pc. rod blank at the ICRBE this past Feb. Being green as I was, I thought about building this as a short fly rod for hiking back into the mountains and fishing for small mountain trout. However, I done the CCS this evening and come up with 50 dead Lincolns. ERN 6.35 AA 60. Not exactly enthused about building a 6 or 7 wt. 5ft. brook trout fly rod. Any ideas on what weigh
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I want to attempt my first feather inlay on a 9' 5wt. fly rod. The blank is Batson RX7 and its glossy green. I know nothing about feathers, I don't tie flies yet. But I have a good friend who is retired and sells his flies at a local farmer's market. This means easy access all kinds of feathers, he has an overwhelming selection of fly tying stuff. Mr. Kirkman how hard was the Grizzly hackle
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Once again I appreciate it. Your commitment to this forum, and especially this craft is unreal!
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Thanks Tom. I already have 3 coats of epoxy. I put the last coat on 6:00 am then tried to wrap over it that night after work. It was kinda sticking where I put it, wasn't bad just not close enuff to perfect. So you think I could lightly sand the ridges smooth without the sand scratches showing in the final product? This time I will wrap a little neater. Cp?
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so i finished my base rwrap and it turned out great, thanks to the advice on the forum. however, i may have gotten on the epoxy finish a little to soon with the top wrap last night. i was having a hard time packing and burnishing, so I decided to give it another go. i know it has been discussed on here before, but the thread cut into the soft epoxy ever so slightly. now i'm afraid i won't be a
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thanks guys. trying to move threads in opposite directions on same "line" to hopefully get the bull's eye effect is where i'm getting the gaps. should i just burnish them neatly?
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does anyone have photos of before and after top color on a tiger wrap? i'm working on my first and was wondering if i have enough "movement" on my bottom colors. i am having a hard time moving the two threads around without getting gaps, is this normal? should i burnish to even everything out, or allow the gaps? i seen someone on this board applied a fish decal in between the base an
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I have read that in colder climate it likes to coil really bad. have you tried the 444 clear creek?
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has anyone tried cortland pe+ crystal fly line? also, does anyone know of a chart for fly line diameters?
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Tom, why such a powerful rod casting a 5 wt. line? Are you typically casting more than 30 to 45 feet? Also does underlining help with delicate casts? So much to learn.
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