Check out this method of gluing EVA grips. Best thing I have discovered in rod building in 20 yrs, hands down. A real time saver for this tedious task.
Forum: rodboard

Anyone have any experience using LS Supreme by U-40 over a blank that has been sprayed with Krylon Fusion? Twice now I have used it over cured fusion and gotten fish mouths and a non smooth finish like it is contaminated with silicone. Works fine over the thread wraps, only getting a bad result over the painted part of the rod. Thanks.
Forum: rodboard

Steve, Color laser printers " burn " the image onto the media. In general it is safe to apply epoxy on top of a color laser decal without having the image "melt" away from contact with rod epoxy. Inkjet printer decals as a rule need to be clear coated before contact with rod epoxy. To be safe, I would suggest that you test one of the decals before you try it on your rod. If
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Bill - main reason for all this is that the guides are already on the rod and I needed to put a logo on the grip under rod finish. Not able to do it on a seperate piece and glue it on the rod this time. Its almost finished and I will post a photo when done. Thanks - James
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After thinking about this most of the day I think I came up with several solutions to acheive a clean, crisp edge. Knowing that EVA foam is porous, thereby causing the epoxy finish to wick or seep under the masked off area by capillary action, one must seal up the EVA with something to prevent the epoxy finish from penetrating the EVA foam. I have tried several things today including clear Krylon
Forum: rodboard

Tom - trust me it's black EVA, not a flocked grip. I've held it in my hands so I know. These rods are from a major manufacturer. See more of them @ : James
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I have seen the rods in the photo in person and they are absolutely seamless, like this is not an extra added piece, such as a hosel, but rather the finish is built up on the EVA. I think the best explanation is that they put finish on thread wrapped EVA seperate from the rod and then glued it in place . They were just very careful to hide the glued seam where it meets the EVA of the foregrip. I
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How did they do this on the EVA? James
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I am attempting to make a transition from a EVA foregrip to the rod by covering the EVA with rod finish (Pro Kote). The end result being a firm and glossy like winding check or transition piece. It looks good, but the finish keeps seeping under whatever straight edge I am attempting to accomplish. Does anyone have any tricks or suggestions as to how to get a nice crisp edge where the finish meets
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Owen, I build big game rods exclusively with Aftco bigfoot, Aftco wind on and Winthrop tool rollers. Cracking of the finish has been a problem. Capt. Neil is correct, one step is to let the rod dry for weeks or even a month to get a complete cure before the rod is put to work. Also, I find that double or triple overwraping each guide foot with D thread helps prevent cracking. Since switching fr
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Peter, It should work to apply the real fish skin to the blank, however you are correct, remove the scales first. The scales are not flexible enough to allow a smooth finished product. Make sure you get all the air out from under your fish skin when applying it to the blank. I have used shark skin, fossilized shark teeth and stingray skins on rods before with awesome results. Cover with plenty o
Forum: rodboard

Chip, Sorry to hear that you had this problem. I'm not quite sure why your ink and MHX sticker dissolved. Did you use Krylon "Fusion" spray paint ? I only use Fusion to paint blanks because it adheres so well to the fiberglass and graphite blanks or any other plastic for that matter. After curing for about 5-7 days the fusion bonds to the blank, won't chip off and never yellows in the
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Check with Merrick tackle - if you don't have a wholesale account with them you can buy them thru me. Contact James Carnes, Osprey Custom Fishing Rods. email : james@ospreycustomfishingrods.com
Forum: rodboard