Yeah, what Mike said. :-) Let me know if you have questions Christopher. I added more pictures to the library article and made the tutorial. Terry
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You should email Mike Barkley and have him send you the tutorial. When you get to the stage where you start the first blocking wrap, I always strip off about 8" or so of thread from the spool, cut it, then execute then finish the wrap as stated in the library article or in the tutorial. It makes it really hard if you try to leave the thread attached to the spool. One other note, make
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Ive not marbelized but I do use acrylics to match colors for epoxy winding checks. I can tell you that the acrylics I use make the epoxy sort of snotty and rubbery very quickly. It would be difficult to get the marbel swirls for a good effect with acrylics I think. Enamel model paint pigments are easy to try and practice with. Terry
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Yes, sales are on for wood lathes. PSI Turncrafter pro, 18" between centers, 1/2 hp motor (not variable speed) for $220. Grizzly 1/3 hp motor variable speed $159. Both from Amazon. Buy now! Quick, before the price goes down again! :-) Terry
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Darby, Thanks for the additional info. Emory made some key points about tip velocity and loading, as well as the first (butt) guide location. If the loads you are using are within the recommended range, then my next move would be to look at the location of the first guide. 14" could be okay, but it depends on the reel. I would adjust the location of the butt guide and retest to find
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Yes, but realistically, probably only the Renzetti and the Custom power wrap units are capable of turning cork with any regularity. The Amtak/Pac Bay wrappers just aren't substantial enough to turn a lot of cork. I do use mine occasionally to finish sand or even up a grip. Both Renzetti and CPW units have regular lathe chuck options and the Renzetti has a heavy-duty drive motor that would be
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I did have one of my bass rod customers go bubba on me and ripped a sf guide off the blank. Didn't pull out but broke off one guide right at the foot and the line popped out the ring and tore through the frame on the next guide closest to the handle. Hopefully you all (or y'all) have more gentle customers. Terry
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Seriously, give Batsons a call. They love to talk to people who are making rods for a specific trip or purpose and have the skills and experience to get you set up with the perfect fit. I've talked to both of them on a couple of occasions for recommendations on methods and blanks and they have always been incredibly helpful. They are always my first recommendation for quoting rods for new
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The dremel with the reinforced cutting wheel, then hit it with the belt or disc sander. Terry
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Must be a beasty reel not to fit in a size 18 seat. My vote would be to cut the reel seat and blank off just behind the fore grip and rebuild on an extension. This is way easier than trying to cut off the old seat and rear grip. Good luck! Terry
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Hey Anson, I'll turn some for you if you only need a couple. All my rings are 1/4" ID and I can leave them that way. Shoot me an email if you want. Terry
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Hi Herb, If you pre-fit the rings (and number them, or some way to keep the order straight) then you should have enough time to get everything glued up if you are using Rod Bond. I used to use Flex Coat rod builders epoxy but I was having the same problem you were for long grips. The longer working time on rod bond should do it for you. I use a mandrel most of the time. I used to use T
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Scott, You need a chuck, it doesn't come with one. The Nova chucks are good but the main thing to consider if you are turning both grips and wood reel seats/handles is that you will need a chuck that can hold mandrels down to 1/4" as well as wood stock up to 1 1/2" or 2". PSI has some of these utility chucks on sale. Nova, the Barracuda system is good and their Utility chuck
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Yeah, me too. Flat feet and bad ankles since I was a youngster. I use an off the shelf pair of orthodics that are hard plastic and therfore waterproof. I wear them outside of my stockingfoot waders. Seems to work okay. If you hit a high quality shoe store, there are several choices of these standard but better orthodics that are a big step up from the drug store versions. Terry
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Anyone that makes spinners or bends wire can make these for you. I'll make as many as you want for a fee. Probably .020 stainless wire should do the trick, which I have a ton of in my spinner making corner. Send me an email. Terry
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Yes, don't try to remove the components from the blank. Cut off the handle assembly either right at the end of the foregrip or at the end of the reel seat. Shim the new blank to fit snug inside the old handle assembly. Rod Bond away and either add an extra ring on the fore grip or just add a new fore grip and it hides the mating transition. Finish and go auger some holes when the ice is
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I started with a hand wrapper years ago and it served me well when I was only building the occasional rod or 2 for myself. I use the Pac Bay wrapper now for all my wrapping of any length or style and it works pretty well. I do use it occasionally for some minor grip cleanup or light sanding/finishing, but it's not useful for much heavy duty turning work. I added a PSI turncrafter pro lathe
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MIke is right. If you can, I would highly recommend using the mandrels from Andy at Lamar for turning. The threaded rod material is softer and has a tendency to be untrue and wobble. If you are trying to save some money, it would be best to have the 60 degree bore put in the end as Tom says and make sure to keep the length as short as possible to keep the wobble to a minimum. Terry
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Yes, you can do it and it isn't that difficult, but it does look a bit odd compared to a standard tip top. Make sure to use the security wrap if you use a SF guide on the tip. Terry
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Hey Eric, It's just good form to support the sponsors of the sight, which I most always do. I don't think it's a RBO law, unlike the man law that says you can't waste beer in the name of fun. Sometimes there is a better product out there and this is one of those times. I've not found cases and rod bags for a better value than these. Terry
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Hi Emory, Do you really find it easier than the 3 1/2" grinder? I looked at the belt sander but the grinder solved both my grinding and polishing step problems. Both are superior to using the dremel, which was my method before. Terry
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I know we aren't supposed to recommend non-sponsors, but Alpine cases provides an excellent line of cordura/PVC rod cases and rod socks. They will also make custom sizes of rod socks on your order. Prices are reasonable at less than $20 for a case and about $5 for a rod sock. I've suggested that they contact Tom about becoming a sponsor. Send me an email if you are interested in more de
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Yes, you should still be able to adjust guide alignment with a completed Forhan wrap. If you can't, then the thread tension is too tight. Try backing off a bit and try again. The tutorial was sort of fun to do. Glad people found it useful. Terry
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Rich, I have the PSI turncrafter and the longest 1-piece grip I can do is about 15". This is the reason I got this was due to the 17" between centers without the bed extension. I do both spey foregrips and long salmon/steelhead rear grips that hit 14" and this seems to fit fine. I have the PSI C series utility chuck and the cheap 3-jaw chuck. I ordered the pin jaws for the
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Thanks for the tips all. We'll be doing it a little differently from now on. Terry
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Hi all, Just a little tidbit I discovered. Don't let those grips sit on the mandrel too long clamped with Tite Bond III. I found that this will pit the mandrels and start corrosion, even with a coat of parrafin. Of course, everything corrodes here given half a chance, I shouldn't be surprised. Make sure you clean your mandrels soon after finishing the grip with the scotchbrite pad.
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Hey Pete, Welcome to this side addiction of rod building. Penn State Industries and Woodcraft both have pen making kits and the tools you will need to turn wood. As long as you are turning pens, you can make some reel seat inserts as well. They should have everything you need to get started. I second the good move on the nova chuck. I used the cheapy 3-jaw self centering and wished I
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With a 10' rod, you probably don't need a full 14" fore grip you find on the longer spey models of 13'-15'. The idea is that you get enough separation between the top and bottom hands to execute the various spey casts. I would think a fore grip of 10" to 12" would be adequate and not look too out of place for a single handed rod. You can also use one of the fighting butt sy
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Yup. Robert is great and will definitely help you in your selection. You can also email Batson's directly and either Bill or Karry will make some recommendations for you as well. They are awesome to work with as well. Terry
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And, the other nice thing about rod bond is that you don't have to be exact on measuring amounts. For small amounts, I just scoop out globs of equal size and mix. For larger amounts, I fill 2 mixing cups to about the same level, then mix together. Apply with a popsicle stick or a metal spatula. Terry
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