A dremel is one of the most useful tools in the shop. -cutting and trimming blanks with a reinforced cutoff wheel -prepping guide feet with the same wheel, or with the round sanding drums. -reel seat removals for repairs -any sort of trimming, polishing, grinding job can be accomplished using a dremel If you're doing any amount of repairs in your rod shop, it's pretty indispensable.
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Another easy solution for guide prep that fits on your bench is a small 3" grinder. The one from harbor freight comes with an 80 grit wheel and a fiber polishing wheel. You can prep and polish your guide feet with one tool in a location on your bench. Grinder: Terry
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If you do a search for removing finish epoxy, you'll find lots of comments. Here's my process: I'll use an alcohol flame and briefly heat a small area to soften the finish. Use a plastic tool or your finger nail to remove the finish. It comes off pretty easily, most of the time. If this is a wrap, I'll use an exacto knife to cut the wrap on the top of the guide foot and unwrap the guide.
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Rod Dancer on the left is the current source for that cork ring material. Terry
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I had the same issue until I used the tip of coating the labels before applying finish. I use 2 coats of Krylon fixative, with at least 1 hour cure time between coats prior to applying finish. Sometimes there is residual adhesive on the label face, or around the edges of the label. the Krylon fixative seals all this off and prevents interaction with the finish. Once coated, using your fa
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If the rod action supports throwing the light baits you are seeking, it doesn't care whether you put a spinning reel or a casting reel on it. You'll want to play with the location of the first guide to get the optimum distance from the casting reel and best performance. It's an excellent winter project. Terry
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I fish the same rod as well. There are short belly heads and shooting heads that can be used with this rod, so just to be safe a #7 running guide would handle any of the lines discussed. I just use DF snakes and a #3 in this style handles all the different lines. However, I heartily agree that if you are intending to use skagit heads and sink tips, move up to a longer spey rod. You'll be mu
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I used to use the cups but have since switched to a small shallow dish I line with foil each time. After I finish, I just throw the foil away and reline. I can get 2 applications from each lining. I like this as it's a shallower amount and easy to remove bubbles before I start application. No searching for the next cup or beer can. I used to use the tops of frozen juice containers but we qui
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If you are fishing with a charter or a lodge, find out what type of fishing they do. This is typically a troll or mooching fishery with bait or hardware. Many of the trollers use divers with or without flashers so there is a pretty substantial load on the rod. Generally, a longer rod of 9' to 10.5' is used here with a line rating of 12-25 ish and a moderate action. This is not an application
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There is always some variation between blanks of the same model. The models are also "tweaked" during their life and may change the outcome as well. It's not an exact process although most manufacturers control it as well as they can. I think you are probably seeing more variation in measurement process by the contributors, with a little contribution from blank variation. Where the
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Message sent Jared. Terry
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Roger's discussion was pretty spot on. If you are only going to build a few rods a year, the vast majority of builders have zero problems with epoxy reactions. There are some that have sensitivity to amines and need to take extra precautions. If you build a lot of rods and always have some epoxy curing in the shop, extra ventilation is always a good idea. Using latex gloves keeps it off y
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You might also check the Lamiglas line of fly blanks. The FL904, even though rated for a 4 wt line would be definitely the action you are looking for and would throw light lures well. The 904 is 7'9", 2-piece and would fit your requirements, I think. I agree with your customer that many of the ultra lite spinning blanks are too short and too fast for my liking and much prefer the slower
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All states will have specific requirements for you to sell merchandise. As already mentioned, you should check the websites for the Department of State for your state to see what they are. The simplest way to start is to set up a business where you are the sole proprietor. In Oregon, here are the basic steps: Obtain a business registration for the state Obtain a federal tax ID Your county
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I turn on a mandrel and usually just stick with 2500 through the whole process. The skew chisel needs to be sharp for rounding though. Terry
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Field repairs are just that, field repairs and while they will be quite functional, don't approach shop quality work. A small kit that contain tip tops, tip top glue, a selection of guides, black thread and solvent based head cement or clear nail polish is a great kit to have in the field or on a trip for repairs. Don't expect those repairs to be of shop quality. Terry
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So, just for clarification, you have to go through the entire order and checkout process, but it's free. The template comes to you in an email confirmation to download. Not entirely obvious but it seems to work fine if you go through the whole process. Terry
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Hey Joe, It's not clear how to download the file from the website. I went through the no charge order process and nowhere does it appear that there is a pdf file to download. Nice gesture and I wanted to see how you implemented this. I keep a file of starting point measurements in much the same way for my grips but all are made to fit the angler. I noticed that you have that disclaimer o
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Agree with Spencer. A rod that's heavy enough to side drift for both fish will be satisfying for neither. The steelhead version works best with a 9' or 9'6 4-8 lb or 6-10 lb test with a soft tip for casting small baits. The salmon version is around 9'6" to 10'6" rated 10-17lb or 12-20lb again with a moderate tip. The longer length salmon version can also double for a bobber rod alth
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You can achieve a wood grip that is close to a cork grip in weight by coring the grip and filling the space with a urethane foam spacer. The feel is warm, but the shape of the grip needs to match the angler "feel" as close as possible as there is no give to a wood grip compared to cork. As far as feel goes, some anglers say yes, some no. My opinion is that it's pretty dependent o
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X2. Great rods for beginner or better. Nice moderate actions to learn on. Terry
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Some manufacturers will permit you to order direct, but be prepared to by a large quantity. They'll encourage you to buy from distributors (Utmost, Anglers Workshop, Mud Hole, etc) for small quantities. If you consider the cost of carrying inventory that you may have around for a long time, paying a little more through a disti and only buying what you need will be better for you in the long run
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I've tried permagloss a couple of times for this method but I have trouble with it setting up too fast before the air is displaced. Could just be my method, and it's on my list to work on as there are advantages to using urethanes. I do get very good results with the thinned epoxy as long as coat #1 is very thin, and allowed to cure/evaporate off the solvent. I'm not looking for any streng
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Here's my process for the transparent look. Others may vary from this and have good results but it works for me. Pearsall's Gossamer, or YLI 100 white silk thread. Wrap guides with adequate but not overly tight tension. 1st coat with Threadmaster lite finish, thinned with 30% acetone (DNA also works as a thinner) The first coat is very thin. You will see thread ridges when finished. Work
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I solved the same problem by making a few short mandrels out of bar stock. I select the mandrel that is slightly larger than the butt OD and plan to do a little shimming at the front end of the rear grip as it all mounts from the back. I bore a hole in the last rubberized about 1/3 of the way through, then pre-drill the other rings and mount them on the mandrel. Glue up and clamp as normal.
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Either way works. You'll find it a little easier to make the top wrap if the underwrap has a coat of epoxy. If you choose to over wrap without epoxy on the underwrap, it will be easier if the over wrap is in the opposite direction than the underwrap. Terry
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You have a couple of options. The grip could be constructed solid to the blank, meaning there is no core or gap between the grip and the blank. However, if you are hearing rattling, then there is a gap and either a core or a shim of some sort between the blank and the grip. Sometimes these grips are built on aluminum tubing extensions and there could be material inside the extension, not th
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RB Meiser Switch rods will have choices in your grain window. Other manufacturers can fit your requirement but make sure you get one that fits your grain window. Terry
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Great project. Fly fishing for tuna is a hoot. We use 12 Wt's in Oregon for Albacore up to 30 lbs and they break occasionally so probably at least a 14 Wt for you on Yellowfins. I'm mixed on ceramic insert guides. Make sure you get titanium frames if you use them and your idea about 8's or 10's is accurate. You'll have a shooting head system with connections most likely. Good luck! T
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Yup. I had a rod break like this when I stepped on it. I'd placed it on the wood floor to take pictures and had a misstep. Long, longitudinal cracks just like this. Terry
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