I know there are many more things to consider in a blank, but in general what would be the basic differences in these two blanks comparatively?
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Ahhhh........I don't know. I might have trouble fishing with a rod that might have been made by a sexual predator and rapist. Lots of time for thought while fishing. Just sayin.
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By thread saturation do you mean it is ok to see the thread lines through the finish? Maybe just a hair more than CP? In other words I dont need a smooth finish on the first coat? Both finishes I have worked with are light build.
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I am now finishing up my third build (progressing by leaps and bounds I might add). Ive done two Pac Bay RainforestII 4wts, a Batson Rainshadow 8wt, and currently working on another batson Rainshadow 4wt (I love those driftless area spring creeks and my lake michigan steelies). All very nice rods I might add. I think I want to try a Northfork fly blank for my next build. Where can I get a 4pc 4 o
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So far I've been using light build U-40 and light Flex coat for my flyrods. My question is how heavy should the first coat be applied? Should it be done as if it were the final coat, or can it be more of a base coat (ie. not worry so much about brush marks and unevenness? I've been trying to do the first as if it were the last, and am just wondering if I really need to be that carefull, or would
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Thanks guys. Sometimes the obvious is not one of my strong points...lol.
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Well..... Abeginers mistake I'm sure. I'm allready on my third build. This addictive hobby could become expensive LOL. The problem I had with this one is that after i applied the CP it exagerated the tag ends of some of the metalic trim bands, and kind of formed a nub. Is there anything I can do at this point to get rid of them now that the CP has dried? What are some good ways to hide them befo
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Might it be an initial over soaking problem (losing some of the glue in the water)? check this out....
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I am wondering since single color printers are so cheap now ($50 or so) if it would be at all possible to mix up a color that shows up fine on dark blanks, and then refill the cartrage with that ink? Does anyone know what kind of inks are used in PC printers? Would simple india Ink work?
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Ha!! The timing of my post coudn't have been any better. I believe there has got to be a way to get this done. If printers can print photos as well as they do there has got to be a way. Love you're artwork by the way!!
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Got some clear water slide decal paper. Printed out a nice gold (ink jet) decal for a matte clear rod. When I apply the decal, the lettering cant be seen at all. What colors, or what can I do to make the ink on the decal more solid as to be seen on the actual rod? Its my first time with decals. Is there some secret as to the colors? It looked fine against the white back ground from the decal pape
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I went to you're web sight to look at the closeouts. Blem blanks? Are thes blanks blemished? If so to what extent?
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It would be Flex Coat CP and thread sealer. Wanted to make sure I got all the threads and had some over the edges onto the blank. 2nd rod and first time using cp. Still learning.
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Will residue color preserver on a rod blank have any affect on the epoxy application? Should I clean the blank before epoxy? If so, what should I use?
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Larry Damore Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What kind of gathering? And is anybody welcome? I > am from the chicago area, new to rod building, and > looking for anything that might be a good > introduction to the hobby. Sounds great Mike. I'll shoot you an email !!
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So then would you use the same size single foot as you would the snake guides?
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What kind of gathering? And is anybody welcome? I am from the chicago area, new to rod building, and looking for anything that might be a good introduction to the hobby.
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How Does snake guide sizing convert to single foot guides. Would the sizes be the same/interchangable, or is there a difference in the sizing? ie. Would a #2 snake guide be the same as a #2 single food guide, and also a #2 single foot w/ insert ? Or are they different, and if so, how do you go about converting them? P.S. I am a complete newbie to rod building. Please forgive me if this is a
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > First question -- are you new to fly fishing ?? ok heres the story (long winded) I have litterally been addicted fishing all of my life. I am 45 years old (I hate to admit). Started fishing probably about the time I could walk. I have dabbled on and off with fly fishing since about the time I was 10 or so,
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Thanks for all of the input !!! Now that I've found this forum I will have a million more questions about rod building I am sure !! Again thanks a ton!! And feel free to keep the thread running...lol!!
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Harold Dean Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Larry; > > A Batson (sponsored on the left) blank may not be > a sage, but for your buck and considering it's > your first build I would certainly recommend one. > My first builds were on Batson blanks and I still > fish them all the time. I'd be giving them some > consideration if it
Forum: rodboard

Hey guys, I am brand spanking new to this forum. I'm just looking for a little information on fly rod blanks. Aside from the name brand rod manufacturers (ie. sage, winston, Loomis, etc) Who would you say makes the best builder brand graphite fly rod blanks in the business? Are there any high line blanks which rival say any of the sage models without the costly logo? I'm looking to build a rod,
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