So I guess my little stash can be sold back to you now Billy? LOL! I was just getting ready to turn a grip out of some I got a while ago.
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warm water, dish soap and a little elbow grease works just fine.
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I actually fished in a 21 foot bass boat this weekend with 2 tournament bass fisherman. The front deck had no less than 16 rods sitting on it. The co-angler had 7 rods in the passenger seat, side rod holders . I took 3 of my own and 6 more for them to use thru out the day. Never once did I see the guy in the front of the boat come close to stepping on the rods. I did see 1 eye busted off whi
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It all comes down to personal preferance. For 7' casting rods I prefer a 10" to the back of the reel seat. I build for a guy who likes 9 3/4" He has fished with my 10" and says it catches on his shirt. A 1/4" is a huge difference to him. But for spinning he likes 10 1/4". We fish predominantly for river small mouths. Every builder is going to give you a different a
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I should probably clarify. The front feet on the reels are sitting too high. As you tighten the nut down it just barely fits under the front hood. I'm afraid if I over tighten it will strip the threads. My only other option is to, either use my dremmel and grind down the feet of my reel or grind down the flat surface on the reel seat.
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I built myself a couple casting rods using Fuji ACS 16 reel seats. I went out today and got 2 new reals for my 2 new rods. Both reels are low profile casting reels. My problem is that neither reel will tighten down tight on the reel seats. both slip forward. I can modify the seats with my dremmel or the feet of my new reels, but is this normal? This is the first time I have ran into this pr
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Thanks for the info Bob. I have tried several different brands of CP and have not found one that works the way I have been wanting. Either you get the white milky stuff that makes it difficult to use while doing feathers, or the clear stuff that does't quite cut it when it comes to feathers. I will give this a try.
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I just saw some grips were Mark Blabaum used a router to carve out room for a metal pin to be inlayed into a grip. He then filled the void with polyester casting resin and then turned the blank into a grip. Maybe you can finda horse pin and give er a whirl. Mike
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I agree with Jeremy, I will second the MHX MB844. If he wants to use it as walleye rod too step it down to a MHX MB843, which built correctly is a great all round blank for walleye, bass, walleye. Both suggestions built as a casting rod.
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Mount the new spool on a dowel. Chuck it on to your wrapper. Transfer it yourself.
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Tom, I've gotten mine a couple different places. As I am only just up the road from the Lambeau Field, I got my Packer decals from the pro-shop. I also was asked to make another rod that the team if mentioned, will cause my grandfather, God rest his soul, to roll over in his grave. I got those decals off your favorite teams pro-shop on line or any @#$%& site. If you are in the need of Pack
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Tom, I can't help you with Da Bears sticker, I got a couple Packer ones if you need them? LOL! Actually, I've built a couple team rods for friends using eye black out stickers. The stickers that go under your eyes. They are vinyl. And I've had good success with them. Mike
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get some glitter and drop that in your epoxy. It will give it a little more girly look. Pretty easy to do. Personally I put the epoxy on the guides first then sprinkle the glitter on the uncured epoxy. Fishhawks varigated purple thread looks good too.
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I'll second getting ahold of Lance at Swampland. They are shipping me a white blank right now. The exact blank I was wanting at that!
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Not sure if it is in stock but Veritex on the left has 18"long with a .375 bore in purple on there site. Mike
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Did you use heat? If so it may have aided in the lifting of the decal. If it happens again spiral wrap thread around the decal, probably 6 or 7 wraps over the whole length of the decal. Keep an eye on the epoxy. As the prior to the epoxy curing remove the thread. You will have to put a second coat of epoxy over the decal but you will never be able to tell. It prevents trashing the whole thi
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Probably one of the most common used is the Jungle cock nails. My favorites are Greys Pheasant, Zambisie (sp), and Grizzly hackle. I use all sorts of feathers. Some feathers loose there iredescent colors under epoxy. Some don't. Pheasant, Turkey, parrot and duck feathers are all used in some way or form. Like said above though make sure you don't use feathers from birds that are protected.
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Check with any one who sells fly tying material. I know Mud Hole, J. Stockard and several other vendors on the left carry fly tying material. Most fly tying material is good for inlays. Shoot me an email, if you are just getting started I have some I can probably part with. Mike
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just a thought but try an arbor instead of the > tube. Then the matrix over the arbor. That is actually what I did Bill. I started to put it together last night and grabbed an arbor. Lined every thing up, a little bit of rod bond. And now I have a reel seat. For any one else using one of these. Wit
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Pictures in the second picture I did not push the components together on the tube, just to show my thoughts, on how it should go together.
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No the carbon fiber insert does not have Tenons....that is where my confusion is coming from.....The carbon fiber just butts up to the threaded barrel and the front hood....
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Look in the photo section in the grips section. some of the pictures will show this area. The thread art pages will probably show this area too. You may have to flip thru a few pages.
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So I ordered an American Tackle Matrix reel seat CRSD-16MX-B I got the reel seat with the black matrix insert. 1.) Has any one used these? 2.) This reel seat comes un-assembled with the skeleton components, the black matrix carbon insert and a black plastic tube like thing. I'm guessing the black plastic tube (fits perfectly inside the components) is used to hold the reel seat ske
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I use thread also while spinning on my lathe. Use caution if trying to hold the thread by hand. Do not wrap the thread around your fingers!
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I like Mudholes MHX SJ843 for this exact use. Split grips with the above mentioned Castaway exposed blank reel seat, and you have a spinner bait throwing machine. If you are going to be throwing spinner baits that are larger than the MHX MB843 is the work horse you need. Just my .02
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It can be done on a drill. But like stated above the end will need to be supported. This was a grip turned out of a block that I did on a drill. Mike
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Batson does have a paper catalog. Very nice one. I just got one at a NERBs gathering. So I know they are available.
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It was a great get together! Thanks for arranging it Mark! Thanks for all the knowledge that was presented! A great bunch of guys! Also a big thanks to the companies that supplied door prizes! Top notch! Mike
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I started with both of Dales books. Then I went & purchased Billy's book. The advantage to Billy's book is that it has alot more patterns and alot of them are more detail orientated and intricate. Which are going to make them more difficult. But it has plenty of beginner pattens and for your $ in my opinion is better in the long run. But like every thing in rod building, you must learn t
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My wife asked me to build a rod for a friend of hers (her lawyer). In her words " His Favorite rod that he wore out was a Thinwick backrod. That was servicable as a spinning rod and a fly rod." He can't find them any more. Or he wants a 6' ultra lite. After some thinking I came up with a Fenwick Voyaguer Feralite pack rod. Some of them I have seen are 7' 4 peice rods. A couple
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