I would and do use 160psi or 200 psi PVC. A plumbing or landscape store will have it, way cheaper and lighter as well as working just as good.
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Many types of wood are affected by UV light (Cherry, cocobolo) they will darken as they are exposed. Not sure what you are using but a good Spar urethane works great. it is MUCH harder than rod finish for sure, you can sand it for a satin finish or allow it to be for a better one. I will use Spar on most, True oil on some and Tung on others. Depends on the wood.
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right Rolly, that is the deal here. It is a 13' blank. I like my reel approx. the distance from the end of the blank that is equal from my elbow to my hand. Then from holding the reel and reaching out with my opposite hand and that is where I place the guide. When doing either a wallis cast or side cast you use your non reel hand to guide the line up to the first guide. So placing your guide
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I have. I am running a 5" reel on this one and I am a little taller with some longer arms. I am about 31" from the end of the reel.
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Just looking to see where everyone else places their first guide (from reel seat) on your centerpin rods. I will look at the hieght of the reel and make a judgement, normally end up placing it around the same place I would put the first stripper guide on a fly rod. Thanks
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I have found for lighter rods the heavier guides dampen the action of the rod, regardless of casting distence gained this is not a byproduct I can live with. Clean lines and snakes.
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here is a 10-15 coat job
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I apply with a cloth sanding with 000 or 0000 between every 4 or so coats until all voids are filled. This depends on the material I am applying to. As little as 4 or so and as many as 15.
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for small guides on ice rods, which are like wrapping a wet noodle, I scuff the bottem of the guide with a round file then put the smallest dot possible (using a pin point) of CA on the blank and set the guide on top for a few seconds to set. when I wrap it, it stays in place if I need to move it I can as the smallest amount of CA does not hold it there that well just good enough to wrap. I wo
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if I have a bubble or some need to "heat it" I just blow on it. Hot breath with do the trick without fear of buring or scorching the finish.
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I am with Roger on this one. For the same reason that one does not need to consider ring size for the first guide in a centerpin rod, just the height of said guide.
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Tyler, I guess we would be best suited to provide advice if we knew what you were using as: Drop shot, dip rod, slip float ect..... These rods are all used for the same fish but built in a different set up depending on what you are going to do with them. Standing by to assist where I can. r/ Eric
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I use oversized guides all the time on fly rods WHEN they are for cold weather use IE: steelhead where we are fishing under 32 deg and ice is always a factor. In that case I will always upsize to pass ice/loop to loop aside from that singular use I do not see a benefit.
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awesome! Great job!!!!
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thanks for asking but I have 20/10 just have a very limited amount of time to build as of late so if I can save 20 min on wrapping it is well worth it.
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fuzzy how far out? are we talking 3' or 8' out? I was looking at that as well but dont want it if the beam is wider than the tip at 7'. Standing by... Thanks
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Aside from the Thorne Brothers, MHX also look at Gary's Custom Rods out of Anoka, MN. He has some really nice solid Graphite longer but I have cut then down with great results. like 20.00 I think.
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Funny you would say that. This is a Thorne Brothers Blank. I live only a few miles from there, I pulled it out of the "last years" box for like $15.00 I should have bought 10!
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on one of my 24" ultra light bluegill rods the spacing is as follows. 2.5, 5 3/8, 9 with guides as follows rec 8, followed by single foot fly guides in #4. I use a strait line reel so ring size is of no issue. Sometimes if you make the first ring to small it can bounce on the retreave more than I would like.
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I also have larger bottles but transfer to some smaller 4oz for easy use. all this warming stuff is to much work, toss them in the pocket ready the stuff and done. no scare of melting, water fires or the like. THe 4z bottles are free and so is the heat.
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If mine is cold I put it in my pocket for a few minutes and works great.
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Welcome to the board. I warn you, it starts off with one build next thing you know there is a basement full of stuff and your selling rods to buy blanks to sell rods to build blanks, kinda like a drug........
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I say often "if an ice rod were my first buid, it would also have been my only build" it is like wrapping a wet noodle on those UL panfish rods!!!! for spacing, I bend the rod, at the point where the rod makes is first major bend (on the butt side) I place a guide and work up from there spacing it as the action allows.
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i have been using the same motor since 2009 before that it was in my moms mircowave for 6 or so years. Still works good!
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Mike was very influential in me starting my work on custom rods. He offered up his help via posts and we traded emails for sometime before I was able to meet him face to face at the first Ohio rod builders meeting. He is first and formost a great man and person and a darn great rod builder to boot. Thank you Mike for your controbutions to our great shared hobby. May your heaven be filled with mon
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Spar urathane plain and simple, dip or apply either way works great.
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now I'd buy that for a 1.00
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Don I did not see anything?? Eric.d.viburs.mil@mail.mil try again?
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My #25 guide is on average 18-21 inches from the top of the spool when the reel is mounted to the seat. Not sure what type of guide you are using if it is short like a minima SV then yes it will be up too far, if you go with an M series then you will move much closer to the reel. Having too much space between the reel and guide will cause line slap for sure. 25M, 16sv, 6sv, 4sv to a #4 top or
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I have seen his work on another local MN builders rods and they are very nice. For the money they cannot be beat.
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