I have used a channel lock type pliers like a parrots beak to rip out chunks of cork. Don't grab to deep. Once you get the first piece out the rest chunk out pretty easy. You might want to save the cork to grind up and mix with epoxy or rod bond for a cork filler. A whole grip should be enough to last quite awhile and it is going to be in pieces anyway.
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Ted Since the blank was not deflected to 24" I'm sure the tip angle, or action angle, was a lot different than it needs to be for that measurement. Anyway, if you were offshore and hooked only a 10# you would think it rather small for what you were after. Likewise, if you did hook something in the 60# or more range would you be afraid of the rod breaking? Would the rod not bend way over, at
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Have you looked at the CCS system yet? It may help you select what you are after. There is a CCS data page too, check the links top left.
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Kerry, thanks for sharing your work and loom. If you had it to build again, would you make anything different from the plans? Andy K
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At the Lamiglas seminars I was able to see and learn many cool things. Thanks to all who presented methods / shared experience / displayed their handiwork. It was definitely worthwhile! Kerry Hansen brought some of his rods / weaves and his loom. Wonderful work! Have any of you used the loom he was using? If so, any input / ideas? Improvements? Thanks.
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Is the broken blank a one or two piece? If the top half is being replaced you may get a replacement top half and keep the original bottom half. Just an option.
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Nice tiger Ted! I just got a couple of 1/2" dowels the other day so I could try tigers and start some simple weaving. At least add it to my list of things to do . . . baby steps . . . Thanks for sharing.
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Kerry, I like that idea. Sounds much easier than trying to pull it off. The Lamiglas seminar was great, but it was hard to choose what to watch. It was very nice to meet you. Do you have an email? Andy K
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I had NO idea what to expect as this was my first trip. Wow . . . . just real, real nice of Lamiglas to host such an event. Many thanks to all the Lamiglas staff for the friendly, cheerful help with those who got to build a blank . . . . is that cool or what! Thanks to Kendra, Vanessa, Josh, Matt, and several others (I am terrible at remembering their names!) for hosting and organizing this. I de
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You can mix some cork dust with rod bond or rod finish epoxy to make a paste. Work it into the voids you want to fill and leave the fill a bit proud of the grip for later sanding back smooth. The finished plug is just a little darker so you may want to add a very small amount of white to the paste, NOT much. Put a few rings of not so pretty cork on a stick to make a grip for practice to get the
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Wow, nice shots! At first look it does make me think I would want to smooth out that line before the butt guide as soon as reasonably possible. But, I am sure there are other things at work as to why not to put the but guide "too close". I am still learning. These sort of posts make me think of things I maybe wouldn't have otherwise. Kind of ruins the whole cone of flight thing. Than
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Just registered. Don't list anyone for referral person, that seemed to work fine.
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Same issue. I guess Karry is not a good referral person?
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On those DC gear motors, do you just run them on a typical car / motorcycle type battery? Maybe a deep cycle marine?
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A fishing buddy and I started talking about rod making a few years ago, but it didn't go anywhere for awhile. I think mostly because of a lack of information. After some poking around I found a local rod builder who is very helpful at times, and also this website and just a few others. Then I ran across rodmaker magazine and recently started a subscription. Great magazine! Not much fluff, lots
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My Lexmark has a straight through path, and I don't see the wheel marks you guys are referring to. If you don't mind the coverage.
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I have a Lexmark X3470. I have only printed a few decals but I do not see any of the wheel or roller marks you are referring to. However, I do notice the ink coverage is not solid. Printing on the stardust holo paper the media shows through. Indoors not so obvious with black, pretty noticeable with green and red. Outdoors it is way more noticeable! Maybe that would be good for you. I think tha
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On the wrap around style decals: Has anyone finished a decal with an overlap at the seam, or did you manage to trim it flush with no gap showing? Or did you leave a little gap? How much does the thicker overlap part stick out? I just printed out a few on the stardust media and was wondering which way to approach the seam. I printed on a Lexmark X3470, let it dry a few hours (afraid to leave fing
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Can you check the rod as is with the common cents system. Then move it back in the holder 6" and check it again. Then have it all the way up in the holder and attach the weights 6" back from the tip. See if you like how the rod "looks" based on what you find out. Maybe check it with 3" back in the holder and weights 3" back from the tip to compare that. Just an idea.
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Eugene; I am going to have to somewhat disagree with some of what you said in your last post. While we can't alter the blank design the placement of guides along the blank certainly affects how much load is applied and where it is applied to the blank. Tom is very right in that his second example rod will fail in an entirely different location than the first one with no guides. I need to chew a b
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I have not used a cord wrapped / knotted grip, Are they comfortable to hold? Do you have some finish on them, or just have the cord / knots as is when you are done tying / wrapping? Thanks.
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Roger; I like your method of flexing the blank some to look for where it starts to bend. That would be a useful insight during this whole placement process. It made me think of something I read in the Commom Cents system. A piece of un-cooked pasta or a straight piece of wire was attached at the tip of the rod to more easily observe the action angle of the rod during deflection testing without in
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John; Since all the guides are surface mounted it seems measuring from that surface would be consistent. That is part of why I was using all 6's on the top several guides, to help eliminate at least one variable. The blank diameter does vary, which accounts for the increasing stiffness/load bearing ability. Besides the stiffness I don't see a connection between blank diameter and line flow. If th
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Ok, well the blank at hand has a tip of 5.5. During adjusting of the first guide and measuring the distance from line to blank along the way I notice the section of blank from tip to first guide starts to curve more when the guide is at ~5 1/2" from the tip. I got the first guide all the way back to 6 1/2" when I got the distance from line to blank finally up to 14/32's, or about what I
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I am trying to follow where my measurements are taking me, not "this is where it goes". I don't think of any of these tools as hard rules, but you have to start somewhere. All the stuff about so many guides for so many feet of rod are just a starting point. I very much agree about trying to equal out the load from line to blank, but what may be good for load may not be so good for casti
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I have read several places to be careful with the syringes you use. Do not use syringes that are made with silicon or use silicon as a lubricant, like medical syringes. Getting your syringes from rod builder supply when you buy the epoxy would be an easy way to avoid that issue. They are cheap enough. The dollar you save at the outlet store or where ever would soon be wasted on gas getting there.
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I was wondering why the first guide from the tip is just placed at 4"-5" back from the tip and "we know that is where it is supposed to go". Based on what? Convention, that's the way it is always done? Manufacturers testing? Not trying to be smart about it, but I am asking why. I was doing a static placement on an IST1085F with the guides on the bottom as a spinner or an acid
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When you cast, are you right handed? It seems if you are right handed you would have your spiral going to the right to help keep the line off the blank when you make your cast. That puts the load of whatever your are casting to the right as you hold the rod. Unless you cast the rod from behind you going straight overhead as you make the cast, you most likely hold the rod to one side or the other
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Another point to maybe consider. In an environment were you have rotating machinery (lathe, table saw, drill press, etceteras) there is a very real concern that some combinations of flourescent lighting and moving machinery will cause the machine to appear as if it is not moving due to a strobe effect. If the frequency of the light (and flourescent light has a frequency) approaches the speed of
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Thanks. I talked with him some today and he is OK with an acid wrap. That should help me to keep the weight off the tip area. And I was wrong about the recoils, he wants those on a different rod for steelhead. So, I will be looking at ceramic inserts, something light. Also, this blank measures at ~9.2 for a reel seat at 12" to 14" up from the butt, so I need 9. I was thinking of a mini
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