I have a few epoxies i use depending on what i am trying to do. They may not work the same for you. Mostly its Threadmaster Lite, mainly because i have both a snake skin in the split grip plus a feather inlay of 6 inches plus guides up front. That needs working time. Plus i can mix it until its so full of bubbles its like a milk shake and yet all the bubbles come out. I can hit it with a hair
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Thanks guys. Closer look this evening with a good light shows it was silver paint. It had even dried out and was no longer 'gunge'. It was a trivial fix, the cause had me stumped. I like to be able to tell my customer what went wrong with the original build, with some degree of confidence.
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I saw two guides today with something i have not seen before. They had migrated around the blank 45 and 60 degrees. When i got the epoxy off, what had at first looked like a silver under wrap turned out to be either silver paint or silver tape. The epoxy looks like it reacted with this tape/paint adhesive and created a 'gunge' that was slick enough to allow the guide to move around with its ep
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At the ICRBE i got a dozen or so discontinued ATC blanks from Fishsticks. These were of good quality but i think ATC went out of business a few years ago (this is NOT AMTAK btw!). They were not blems at all and the 2 piece ATC 5's in particular have been very good. Try giving Scott at Fishsticks a call he may still have a few. Excellent folks to deal with too. Karen at Bingham from time
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At the ICRBE i got a dozen or so discontinued ATC blanks from Fishsticks. These were of good quality but i think ATC went out of business a few years ago (this is NOT AMTAK btw!). They were not blems at all and the 2 piece ATC 5's in particular have been very good. Try giving Scott at Fishsticks a call he may still have a few. Excellent folks to deal with too. Karen at Bingham from time
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Victor, thanks, its what i landed up doing and it came out fine. Epoxy over it and its looking good.
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The 'bubble' is at the edge so i am thinking its toast. Pity, its the only one i have like it.
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I put a peel and stick decal on a rod i was finishing off, covered it in CP then noticed it was not 100% straight. Then I compounded the error: removed decal and put it straight now getting still wet CP under decal. Needless to say, there is a bit of bubble under decal where it is not on the rod. I have tried more CP and pressure,rubbing it with plastic it holds for a few seconds then lifts. I
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Thanks Mike,i had not seen those yet. I will certainly try some of the BMCAT'S.
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This is mainly an aesthetics issue but what tip tops are you using with smaller guides like minima 4's etc? I have tried the Minima series of tops(just got in about 20 different sizes and finishes, not a big fan), they just look odd and are way too big with their smallest ring able to swallow the whole of my running guide. I tried the regular 'micro' guides tip tops, they look better but thos
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I use the flexcoat one. It works out OK for me.
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Some ideas on guides for travel rods:Go for the toughest frames you can get and also the smallest that will work. Titanium is good and never an overkill on travel rods. Travel rods have a lot of stresses put on them: Every time that rod goes in or out a tube, suitcase or backpack the guides hang on something.The tips jam on things when being put in. I tell the folks i build them for to use
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Just used some of the water based on a snakeskin and feathers butt section, nice product.
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Mudhole have a closeout on a 8 1/2 ft lamiglas salmon/steelhead 3 piece travel rod.. Model GSA1023H. I use 17# nylon or 30# braid on them. I love mine and i think it would work well for what your client needs.
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Nice, thanks
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Thank you for all you did and continue to do. It exceeded my expectations in all respects, even my wife enjoyed the whole thing. To be with so many that share the same strange obsession was just awesome. Looking forward to the next one! Thanks again Lou
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I was planning on traveling there via the I40 from Memphis TN on Thursday evening. Its the Hilly parts that holds the cold that has me most worried. Would i be better off traveling via Brimingham and then Atlanta? Anyone have experience with that route or tell me where i could find if the I40 has frozen stuff on it?
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Mo, you raise what to me is a very important point: the reel and other components may be the place to make the changes. I was in my local BPS recently and some of the guys are talking about saving .2 of an ounce off the rod by removing various parts of the reel seat. Some guys were not willing to look at swapping out their reel to a CI4 which is lighter than their current reel by the total ma
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Even Quick Bond (the fast setting rod bond version) is better than regular epoxies just because it stays in place. No dripping or running onto other parts too. I like that you can make shapes to fill voids or mold things and that shape stays like you make it until its dry, then you can file it or sand it.
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Nice idea, thanks Phil! The amount it would be off, if any, would be easy enough to ream (more of a burnish i would guess) or just a few microns of glue.
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Phil, does your spreadsheet formula assume a straight line/taper from tip to butt and if so, is this applicable for that particular blank? Or for all blanks for that matter? Or is it one of those, its close enough to make little difference things?
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Dentists rubber braces rings doubled or trebled over hold them in place for me while doing the wrap. I use a few per guide and they work ok for your tests too. Make a figure 8 with one and put one O of the 8 over the ring so it stops the guide headings up the blank if that makes sense. Kind of a rubber locking wrap: one or two on the foot, one over the foot and also over the ring so its on fro
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I use the one part finish on feathers. You can thin it with water and it soaks them well and gets the air bubbles out. But when you have it all level you cover it with 2 part finish.
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Rusty, your email is hidden. I live in Memphis/Countrywood and you can contact me via kobkilla at hotmail dotcom. Also Schneiders (a sponsor on the left) is out there in NE Arkansas and may be closer. They are in Mountain Home Arkansas.
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Action:depends what they send you. Some are short, thick at the butt and very thin at the tip, others are more slow action almost the same in the butt as the tip and over 7 ft long . You either ask for what type you want or what you get is the first thing that came to hand. Some are 5 1/2 foot long and good for bluegills some are 7 1/2 ft and suitable for cat fishing the Mississippi river.
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I go though about 10 - 20 a year. I use them for repairs, parts for lengthening rods and building reamers,testing wraps and thread colors, finishes,drying techniques, testing inlays, blank cutting techniques, glues, you name it. I have joined three cut up ones together in parallel to make a sabiki rod where the baitcaster reel pays out the line down the inside of the top blank.. Glued an old
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I made my own cork/eva reamers. Those $4.99 unsanded blanks from mudhole: cut into lengths and rolled in epoxy glue and then kids play sand (3.99 for 20lbs). Leave the first two inches free of sand so you can fit it into the chuck. Load into a rechargeable drill and go slow. Choose a taper nearest the blank you are trying to match your grip to. For thicker reamers, build up the chuck end by gluin
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I had a buddy who worked for PURE some years ago. He gave me a rod that was not commercially available with what looks almost the same as today's MINIMA's i got in a few weeks back. I have used that rod for spring run White and Hybrid fishing 4 or 5 days a week for 7 years. Loaded with 10# power pro or 8# suffix braid. I cannot see grooving or wear with my 4 x lens and light, that may be my eyes
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As per Roger above but I add some U40 to my Elmers to thin it. Sort of finger paint it on with rubber gloves. I sand 220 and then 600 between applications until it looks right, then u40 straight as final coat. Seems to stay in the pits and cracks longer that way for me.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > One idea is there is a Tool Handle Dip that may > work for coating handles ?? Maybe at Home Depot Bill, I used that for a few rods , its called plasti dip. Comes in spray or brush/dip on. A few primary colors available too.The dips mix OK and you can blend your own shades.The brush on you just keep p
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