Jim, Do you think the 00 silk will handle 30+ pound fish? I think this would look awesome on a st. croix sc4 musky rod, but im not sure about durability.
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I removed 2 legend elite spinning seat once. I soaked them in hot until the flexcoat arbor let loose. Then i chucked a metal reamer in a metal lathe and fed the reel seat on by hand. It worked pretty decent but it was a lot of work and the nut on the seat seemed tight afterwards. I have to say st. croix uses some extremely strong glue, i think its a 3m glue.
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Yeah i was looking for something similar to the fuji ecs
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I've been looking for an exposed blank graphite reel seat, but the biggest i could find was 17mm id. Does anyone know where to get a bigger one or even if they make a bigger one?
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dlfcustomfishingrods.com builds custom hardwood handles for a very reasonable price. But it takes a quite awhile to get them.
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I would try the St. Croix 2m79xxxhf. That might have a chance, I think thats about the only rod you could actually cast with.
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Try looking at Mcmaster-carr they have almost any type of metal you want. But if it is nickel, its probably going to pretty wicked to cut. I've cut some nickel alloys at work and it was not fun. If you get like an alloy 200, that has copper in it and should cut a little better.
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would this be similar to medium heavy st. croix musky rod, or lighter yet?
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I'm thinking of trying a batson blank. I'm looking at the sw967f. I was going to use if for muskies and be throwing baits from1-3 ounces. Do you guys think this one will be too light? How does their power and action ratings compare to st. croix's ratings?
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Ive never built one but i have seen them. The one i saw the butt section was around 16" and was about about 10" shorter with the main section slid into the butt.
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I put one coat of cp on a rod about a week ago. Now i went to put a second coat on today and there was about 15 very tiny white bugs crawling around on the rod. I squished them all and put the cp on. Could they have possibly come out of the cork? I only seen them on the rod and not around work bench, although they could be very easy to miss not being on the black rod. They are about the size
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I had the same problem. I think it was small bubbles surfacing and breaking while the finish is curing? I heated mine real good with the alcohol burner and that took care of it.
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Im just wondering if there is any difference between a blank labeled spinning to a blank labeled casting?
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I'm just wondering if anyone has used the revo toro and what their experiences were. I've had some bad luck with abu garcia in the past and im not sure if i want to spend 250 plus on one.
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I'm pretty sure superglue cures when in contact with water. It is acually the humidity in the air that is curing the glue, if you run it under water it will cure instantly. What cures with an absence of air is the loctite thread locker.
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how do you use rubber bands to attach it to the wrapper/dryer?
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so you have to wrap the rod and finish then put the handle on the back, or there would be no way to clamp the handle straight. Right?
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I've never put on a pistol grip handle. I've heard they are not bored all the way through and you put them on with tape bushings like a reel seat. Or do you ream them then plug the hole with a cork plug?
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I got one for free when i bought my rod lathe. I love it. Just squirt your epoxy in, let it spin for 3-4 minutes and your ready to rock. I did have to tweak the base a little to get the angle of the cup right.
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Is anyone else having problems getting tm lite to dry? I coat my rods in the basement which is about 60 degrees, Ive been heating a small room with a space heater to get them dry.
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I see in the tutorial for the forhan lock wrap it says to use three locking wraps and on my micro guide two seemed to fit the best. Will this be all right? This was my first build with micro guides (batson 3's) and also a first for the forhan locking wrap. I must say both are easier than i had anticipated. I used 1/8 wide masking tape from mudhole to hold the guides on and that worked super.
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I stripped a rod this afternoon and painted it with automotive paint in a spray can from fleet farm and then spar varnish in a spay can also from fleet farm. Is this going to work alright? And it looks good now, but is it going to look good a year or two down the road?
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the tip size is the problem, I believe it is 9. I will be using 50-80 lb. braided line. I may just have to go with a regular tip.
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I've been thinking about building a micro guide musky rod. I am a little bit leary of the strength of the micro guides, mostly the tip because i will have to tie on a fly guide for the tip? Has anyone built one like this and how does it work?
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I just switched to threadmaster lite. I did a test wrap and coated it in flexcoat cp and applied the threadmaster. When I heated it with the alcohol burner it made more bubbles. Anyone else have this problem. I used to do this all the time with flexcoat lite and never had it happen.
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I static tested a sc5 today and when i got it just about 90 degrees the line slightly touched the blank between the 2nd and 3rd guide. Do you guys think this will be alright or should i change it?
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Have any of you guys used the same syringes on different brands of finish?
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I would definetly buy a st. croix, they are the only company i know of the acually has a musky line up. Most of the rest are saltwater rods also labeled as musky.
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try wood handles, I think they are about the best looking handle and make for a very custom rod. On top of that, there are all kinds of different wood to use.
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I have a motorized mixer and love it. Just squirt the epoxy in, let it mix for three or four minutes, and it comes out perfect every time with absolutely no bubbles. Plus i got it free with my rod lathe.
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