When you check the price of a Renzetti you might get a nosebleed. They are very high quality, but you'll pay for it. I built for about 10 years on a home made wrapper, and made some pretty top quality rods on it. You might want to consider that option, or an inexpensive purchased hand wrapper for your first rod to see if you want to go on with building. The rod you're planning to build soun
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I have built quite a few Rainshadow rods, some Immortals, some RX 8's, some RX 7's, and they have all been dead nuts on the specs. Something is wrong, as stated above.
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You'll get lots of ideas on this issue. I put a cut-off spinning reel foot into the casting reel seat, then install the tip top aligned with the reel foot. That creates a straight line on which all guides should be placed. I align them by eye, looking down the rod, as best possible, then wrap. Before putting on any CP or epoxy I realign all the guides by sight. If you cannot move them a lit
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Dr. Slick fishing pliers have a very sharp set of blades on the top; they cut braid like butter. You probably need an excuse to buy the Dr. Slick anyway, so give it a try.
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The line through the reduction guides looks really good. 20 inches is probably about right, but if you want to experiment, I would not move any of the three reduction guides relative to the others. I would move the whole reduction group up or down an inch or two without altering spacing between the three.. Probably down about an inch. If you move it out, leave the first reduction guide a
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I've painted the hard black Pac Bay reel seat shims, that what you're talking about? I just spray them with any color fast dry hardware store paint, two coats at least, maybe three, then coat with wrap epoxy, two or three coats. When painting, I hang them from bent paper clips, trying to get the paint to all surfaces, which usually takes two or more coats. Keep them thin to avoid droops.
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I've painted the hard black Pac Bay reel seat shims, that what you're talking about? I just spray them with any color fast dry hardware store paint, two coats at least, maybe three, then coat with wrap epoxy, two or three coats. When painting, I hang them from bent paper clips, trying to get the paint to all surfaces, which usually takes two or more coats. Keep them thin to avoid droops.
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Rodmaker Magazine showed a dowel with two small nails coming out at 90 degrees, one a little farther out than the other to match the difference in height required between the male and female ferrule. Just a little paint on the nail tips, touch to rod, and they are transferred in proper alignment. Works quite well. Also, decal connection has alignment dots that you transfer by rubbing the bac
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the comment on background makes a lot of sense. The inlay I posted was done on an ivory background, just about ideal. If on a dark background, might not have looked so good for two reasons. 1. Contrast of the darker feather colors against the light background 2. The light feather colors were not darkened by a dark background. Very important observation by Phil Erikson.
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Yup, if close put it on the female side and combine the ferrule reinforcement with the guide wrap. Spacing is not that critical, so if you have to move things a little, no problem.
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Just use a slim stick to stir it for a couple minutes before using it. I think that CP has solids that can settle, so you want to disperse them throughout the fluid. Some people wash their feathers, but I have never done that. I have enough trouble keeping them looking good without another step, and I've never had color problems or epoxy problems. I can't think of anything else, other th
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I have used pheasant feathers and have found them striking, with good retention of original color. I suspect either bad CP or not using enough of it. I use Flex Coat CP, and put some onto the surface on which to place the feathers. They should be fully soaked with CP. If the inlay is multi layered, every layer gets placed onto CP, so in the end, all the layers except the top layer will have m
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Is it possible that the Permagloss is attacking the previous finish on the rod? And the combination of the Permagloss and the damaged finish is remaining tacky?
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Put a white throw rug under the station where you handle micros.
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Winn Grips and American Tackle presented their line of products, and members gave "tutorials" on a few rod-building subjects (rod repair, feather in-lays, some fresh ideas on simple but elegant spinning rods, and coloring cork/wood for grips) The success of the raffle will allow an even better program next year. We thank the sponsors of the Michigan Rodbuilders for their generou
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More to come, check out in the next week or so and I'm sure there will be more info. Some there now.
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There is no problem with epoxy. Permagloss and Lumiseal and other similar products are a problem. You need plenty of ventilation. Dust masks are effective against dust, but not vapors.
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Jay has it right, start with CCS.
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Having that number would change nothing that I do today.
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Putting a rod breaking spec into a catalog, then adding a warranty that states that manufacturing defects will be covered by the warranty, will certainly get a manufacturer into hassles when that rod breaks. "My 30 pound rod broke with 10 pound test (or class) line! I want a replacement!" A fishing rod is a lot like an automobile manual transmission clutch. Treated right it wil
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Lynn, you may be right. Hope so. But, with many items that are outside, like flags, signs, etc, if I see fading, it is always worse on the blue.
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For the higher pound tests, it really doesn't much matter since the drags on most reels used for most of our fresh water fishing top out much lower than many of our lines' breaking strengths. Different case when you get into the heavier stuff, of course. For me, the pound test of my leader/line has nothing to do with the rod breaking strength. It's more about the most effective presentat
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Jared, with CP I presume? Don, Yes, I know blue fades. The rod I did has been in the boat for three one week tropic trips, and still looks good. That's about 18 days, not always in direct sun (in boat rack on inside lower part of boat). I was hoping to get some other colors that would not be as susceptible to fade as blue, yet looked good with the cobalt blank. thanks
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For the cobalt color, what is your favorite wrap color scheme? I've just done one, and used a dark blue w/o CP + Pro Wrap pearl metallic trim, the blue turning out a darker shade of the cobalt, and it looks good. Got an idea for another that you like?
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Very impressive! I have some rods to add when I get the time to add them. Gib, just suppose I don't take the time to fill out all the stuff that is available in the catalogs, like tip dia, do you still want the data? Nice work, indeed.
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You don't use heat on the epoxy do you? Or, especially, haven't started using heat recently? You still getting the cloudy spots?
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Gib, to try to answer your question about what I would want to be able to search for, filter, and compare: Manufacturer, general application, model, length, weight, stated power, stated action, IP in grams, AA. There should be a note on whether data entered is manufacturer data or "user" data. Even saving all the other blank data, which is available from the sources, may create a
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Skipping it also only makes sense when you have experience with the colors and what they will be without CP. I've done it many times, and like some of the colors I get, but without experience it's a crap shoot. Also, on a weave, if metallic thread is part of the weave it will show through the other colors because even the dark colors go a little transparent.
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If I understand the question correctly, wondering whether the bare blank between the chevrons should be coated, I say yes. You really don't want ANY thread to miss the CP, and the blank appearance will not be affected by CP. Trying to not get it on the blank may result in missed thread area. That would make your weave mottled in appearance.
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The universal chart should be plenty accurate. Keep in mind there is likely a few percent variability in measurements on the blanks, so the chart is plenty good. No need for calculations.
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