For saltwater rods, I do nothing. It often is possible to handle the issue by wrapping onto the foot about 5 wraps, then sliding them down the foot to close the wrap to the threads right at the foot, then continuing your wrap up the foot. Burnish all the wrap as a final step.
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Brandon, I use no alcohol on new blanks. For the reel seat areas I use Scotch-Brite pads to buff the blank, then wipe the dust off. For the thread areas I do nothing and have never had a problem except for one build where I didn't seal the foot tunnel well enough and the wrap would get foggy looking when exposed to lots of moisture as in a rainy day. I have had no structural issuesd with or wit
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Brandon, adding extra hardener will not make the mix harder. Epoxy doesn't dry, it reacts, a molecule of resin with a molecule of hardener. Putting more of either into the mix will only leave "unused" molecules, which most likely will make the mix less hard, even gummy if the difference between the components is great enough. As others have mentioned, you must mix it thoroughly. To
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Sounds like the simplest, easiest, solution is also the most robust, least likely to get screwed up.
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I agree with Phil with his general process and conclusions. I have used an Exacto knife, carefully supported, to cut the carbon fiber while rotating on the mandrel. Then, the carbon fiber separated end can be removed and the recess deepened with the Exacto knife. It will break out easily after deepening and can be "trimmed" as necessary.
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The next issue is avoiding them in the first place. I don't get bubbles and here is what I do: I put the CP on fairly generously, paying particulare attention to filling the foot tunnel, not worrying about any bubbles. Then I clean the brush. By that time the CP has soaked into the thread well, and there is some excess on the thread. I blot the excess off with a paper towel by touching the p
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Agree with Matthew regarding line. Today I think it is imperative to consider line plans when setting up a spinning rod if your intent is to have the most sensitive, lightest, rod. You can build with the idea that the rod will handle any reasonable line, but if you only plan on using fairly light braid , then you will have built a heavier, less sensitive rod than what would work well with the pl
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Longer distance from reel to butt balances better with longer blanks, but if it gets too long it will interfere with clothing/arm with some techniques. This is a very important dimension which needs significant attention with the intended user of the rod. As others have stated, there is no one right answer.
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Roger, thanks. I know that, but am interested in the specific thread series for the Sulky. Last time I tried a "sewing" thread I got the wrong series, even though the right brand, and and it wasn't color-true even with CP.
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Spencer, which Sulky thread is the one you recommend? Nylon? Polyester? thanks
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Keep it simple with minimum risk. Just scuff it, clean it with dry cloth or air flow, no fluids of any kind, and refinish it.
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I have to admit that to me, doing 18 Forhan locking wraps on double foot fly rod guides is unjustified in preventing the very rare instance of a REC guide pulling a foot out of the wrap. I would rather simply do the wraps in the normal, efficient, way and then, in case of a rare "loose foot," re-wrap that foot.
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Go 4 piece- they travel so-o-o-o much easier than 2 piece.
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Steve, what is the main thread? Make and color? thanks
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I have made plenty of rods both ways, and only after many years in a couple occasions have I had these cracks appear, so it's not "universal," with or without CP. If you don't use CP you will get some interesting colors, but you will not get the vibrant, bright, colors you may be after, like the oranges, blues, teals, candy apple, other bright reds, lighter colors like yellows, lig
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I have no experience with Chromaseal, but I would follow directions. I use Flex Coat, 2 coats, putting on excess then after washing the brush, blot the excess off. Works fine. But I have had blotching with 2 coats of Cason's clear CP, so don't use it any more. Many CP's require stirring to distribute minute solids, so check the instructions.
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The problem with printing your own, unless you have a much better printer than my inkjet Canon, is that they will fade faster than commercial decals. Especially the blue inks. I recommend sticking with the search until you can find a commercially printed decal. It may be a long shot, but a call to Ford Public Relations might yield either a decal or a tip on finding one.
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With most seats they may be installed up-locking or down-locking. One advantage of up-locking is that you can build a short ramp out of rigid foam reel seat shims, making the OD just smaller than the OD of the hood. Seamless, comfortable hand contact essentially with the blank. Ideal for drop shot. Don't go smaller than 17 on the straight seat Better for ergonomics, important on a long day o
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Jimmy, you said "rod" in your first post. Sorry, I just never heard of an Alcedo Micron rod, so assumed a reel. My bad, not yours.
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I've built two of these and used Pro Wrap dark blue with Pro Wrap pearl trim on one. No CP. The rod looks great, with the blue being a similar but much darker blue than the blank. My second, in process, uses the same dark blue but with CP, and the wrap matches the blank nicely. I'm using the pearl for trim, but with the CP it comes off as almost white, lots more contrast. I'm using a single
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Right, Russell, pretty pricey for the 50's. I worked in a sporting goods store, and didn't take home much money. Took home a lot of fishing and hunting equipment, though. Including the two Microns.
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I'll just answer here since I cannot figure your email address. The Micron is a cool little reel, which at the time was the lightest spinning reel available. I have two of them that I got when I was in high school, late 50's. (If I'm remembering correctly). I used 4 pound mono on them for really light stuff. I still have them, although I think one has a failed bail spring and both have the r
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Ross's method of matching the rod blank is what I use when the ferrule has no close guide.
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Agree with Roger. Moving a guide or guides a bit to make this work will not significantly affect rod performance. Seems like it always happens with my fly builds.
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If you have some specific Gudebrod colors you're interested in, mention it here and you may find one of the sponsors on the left have some in stock.
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Pro Wrap from Mudhole.com is a good place to start. Their nylon threads are fine, have that little bit of stretch that we like in nylon. Very good color selection. Their regular metallics are quite hard to handle, not as good as Gudebrod. Their up-level metallics probably handle better, but don't have the right colors, iMHO. But Mudhole sells other metallics. I've also used Fuji threads, p
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Not a Liberty, is a Phoenix, sorry I mis-spoke. But I did copy and paste those specs from GetBit.
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REVS62ML-SB Finesse/Tubes/Small Crankbaits 6'2" 6-12 1/8-3/8 0.425 5 Fast ML 1.42 $46.32 ?? REVS62UL-SB UL Trout & Panfish 6'2" 2-6 1/32-3/16 0.369 4.5 Fast UL 1.01 $37.24 ?? If it can be no more than 6 feet, cut 2 " off the butt. Not sure the second blank will have enough backbone. FX601-1 6' 1-6 1/32 - 1/4 0.311 4.5 Fast 0.78 $58.00 (Liberty blank) ??
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I strongly believe there are much better choices for the Ned than 5 foot buggy whip. If the Ned has a problem, it is in the hook set. Shorter rods have poorer hook set capability than longer blanks, especially in the light tips and powers that work the best for Neds. Their casting distance is also more limited than longer blanks. I have been using an Immortal 7' 3" walleye blank with pre
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Randy, so now you know the secret. Either get it while it's warm or get it while it's not. :-)
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