I have had good luck using a mild rubbing/polishing compound then a good coat of wax. Steve
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It';s not twisting by the lure weight alone, I was pulling the line. I fished today and although I didn't catch anything on this rod, it was very sensative. It fished good, comfortable, and I didn't notice anything weird about it. I'll keep using it and hope for the best. I am thinking along the lines of Darrin and Emory's posts that something else might have went wrong during manufacturing
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Terry, Tom, Victor, Roger and Darrin, thanks for your comments Darrin, no problem rambling on my threads, seems that's where you'll find good information and I feel your posts are very good information The rod is conventional casting, guides on top. I'll reply back to this thread Saturday evening after I have a chance to fish with it. Thanks again, Steve
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The rod is 6 1/2 ft, medium with a mod / fast action. I have not fished with it yet, only played with it in the garage. When holding the rod elevated at 45 deg, I pull straight down on the line testing the action. The rod bends straight down, but when I move the load left or right, the rod rolls over in that direction. Now the guides are on the side of the blank, not on top of it. It is occ
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I have been building rods for about 2 1/2 years and really enjoy it. 100% of my builds have been lite to heavy action bass fishing rods. I am in no way insinuating that I know everything, or even half of what most of you know. When I first started, I bought a bunch of cheap blanks (2nds) to build and learn on. I had 1 blank that had a bad set to it, opposite the spine. Actually, the set
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I have built 6 rods with the carbon fiber grips, most of them for myself. I am not yet to the perfection that I see in pictures on this sight and Rodmaker Magazine but I learn a little each time. ( I am a machinist by trade so perfection is my life. The quality of craftsmanship I see on this sight is incredible) I have way more than 1 man hour in each grip but as I said I learn more each time
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Thanks for all the reply's Steve
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I was wondering if anybody cares to share what they charge extra for carbon fiber grips on a build? Thanks, Steve
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I have been getting my supplies from Riley Rods and have been very satisfied. Give them a call, they will help you out. Caution, making these handles can be very addiciting!!! Steve
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I tried the matte clear address labels last night and they printed out good. However, once I got them on the blank, the colors faded and I couldn't even see the silver that I used for the boys name. I will check out the February RodMaker and info from Mr. Stevens and try again. Thanks again for all the help and options. Steve Chontos
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Thanks for the info. I have not received the latest copy of RodMaker yet. My subscription might have expired, I'll have to check. Do you get any kind of notification that your subscription is about to expire? Steve
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I am printing the artwork on regular multi-purpose computer paper, nothing special. I sprayed both sides of the new artwork with Krylon Clear, and it looks really good but my usual method of coating the label with CP will not keep the edges of it down. Thanks, Steve
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I have been making my own artwork using PowerPoint and Clip-art from my home computer. The first couple that I made, I used CP to adhere them to the blank. After they dried, I applied epoxy right over them and they looked pretty good. Recently, I had some problems with the colors bleeding into the natural white paper and ruined the last one I tried. I made some new artwork last week and I spr
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I have had some tacky finish problems too and considering all the advice I got from fellow craftsman on this site, I don't think I was mixing the epoxy enough. I use syringes to measure each ingredient and mix it for at least 2 minutes. Each time I had a problem, a second coat took care of it. Good luck Steve
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In My Opinion, Unless your grip is perfectly straight, your carbon fiber won't be (or at least won't look straight). I've noticed this too with the couple that I have built, looking down them they don't look straight. However, all my grips are contoured, mostly high in the middle so the carbon fibers conform to the shape of the grip. When your looking straight down on your finished product, ther
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"There is a bunch of info floating around here on them but I was still unsure about the whole process." Recently I responded back to a builder asking questions about carbon fiber grips. He is a new builder and since I in the same boat, and I just built my first set of carbon fiber grips, I offered him some help. The quote above is from my reply back to the builder and seems to hav
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Thanks for all the advice, I'll try it all. I just finished a set of split grips for a spinning rod where I mixed rings and it looks great. I was able to use a 18" disc sander and get it all real close. Some final sanding and it looks good. I just picked up some paint sticks from Home Depot today and will be building a couple sanding sticks. Steve
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I went nutz when I first seen these grips. There is a bunch of info floating around here on them but I was still unsure about the whole process. I was able to attend the Rodbuilding Expo this year and I got to talk first hand to several exihitors about these grips. I bought my supplies from Riley Rods while I was at the show and built my first set a couple weeks ago. They came out great and I
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Thanks guys, I'll be trying it out real soon. Steve
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I have been having trouble sanding grips that I assembled using rubberized cork with standard cork. The standard cork sands so easy that it always ends up smaller than the rubberized stuff. What are your secrets? Thanks, Steve
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Thanks Tom
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I have been trying a different brand of thread finish each time I need a new batch. I have used UB 40 and Flex Coat and I just started using Thread Master and really like how it mixes and goes on. However, it really has a strong smell to it. The first time I used it the whole basement smelled and it was strong too. Is the Thread Master any more hazardous than any of the other brands? I know the
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Thanks for all the input guys, I'll try it out on my next build. Steve
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Tom, I am referring to the 1st guide from the reel as the choker guide but I guess I'm wrong. What is that guide called? Is it the same on a spinning rod and a casting rod? I just finished a rod that I built for myself for top water, pop r type baits. It's a ML action and I had to use 9 guides plus the tip top to keep the line off the blank. I used a new Citica reel for the static test which
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I use the static test on every rod I build, and once I am happy with the guide placement, I have been wrapping away. These have all been a conventional wrap, no spirals. I keep reading about test casting and moving guides for optimum performance, but exactly what are you guys doing as alternate guide placement that does not upset the static test arrangement? Do you move them around on castin
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I am not sure where he purchased the rod but he is looking into returning it. Thanks, Steve
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Thanks to everybody for the help.
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A had a customer ask me if I could "straighten" his rod? He purchased an expensive spinning rod and it has a distinct curve to the left. I explained that sometimes a blank will be bent and not line up with the spine, and, if you build on the spine your rod will be bent. I told him that the only cure I know is to rebuild the rod on the curve. Is there any other option out there? Thank
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I have only been building for a year and I might be wrong in my approach (and please correct me if I am), but I will lightly shim the front with masking tape. If there is a big difference, I will use the front from smaller diameter seat that fits snug.
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I am building a rod and the customer wants a split reel seat. I needed a size #11 seat so I built my own 2 piece seat. After shaping it and final sanding, there is still a distinct difference in the original finish and the area I reworked. Are there any tricks beside epoxy or paint to blend the 2 finishes? Thanks, Steve
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