I’ve either butt cut or had Rod Geeks do it to three different blanks, but never by more than by three inches. I also have an original length rod that is on the same blank model of one cut down three inches (SCV70M). The action between those is just enough different that you can tell that the 6’9” (3.6% shortened) one is slightly slower in the middle to rear sections. Thus, I think a 90 inch blan
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I use different rods for these classes of baits because the weights I throw are different. The heaviest jerkbait I throw is the Megabass Ito Shiner at 5/8’s of an ounce. That’s where the topwater lures I throw start in weight. I throw many 1/4 ounce jerkbaits and some 1.25 ounce topwaters. Jerkbaits catch much more fish for me on long casts. Nearly all jerkbaits cast poorly on rods heavy enough t
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I had the same pressure separation happen to me between a CFX grip and a SeaGuide XCSSHSC reel seat. Fortunately, I noticed it before the epoxy kicked. I now chamfer and take a little off the end of grip tenon with sandpaper. The fit between these two parts is snug. I don’t know if the pressure is from the heat of the epoxy curing (ideal gas law) or if the epoxy slightly expands when becoming a s
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Along with reaming from both ends, as Lynn wrote, I finish up by using light hand pressure to take down the middle while spinning the grip on the reamer. I use the thin end of the reamer to not remove further material from either end of the grip. You can readily test the bore diameter of each end of the grip against the blank’s butt. I stop at a snug fit and then do the center. There is a very sm
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I also add a couple of more running guides than the KR recommends. The Rainshadow build recipes calls for several more. I like the line path and look of the happy medium you wrote about. I admire your rebuild exercise, but would probably never do something similar. The Mojo is a St. Croix SCII blank made in Fresnillo, Mexico at the Rod Geeks plant. Rod Geeks sells this blank, unpainted or in y
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If it is a fairly even gap, I’d mix rod fish with the appropriate color of VooDoo dust pigment. This will turn the “oops” into something attractive. Filling that gap with five minute epoxy won’t likely add any meaningful strength, while looking messy.
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Richard Bowers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > When I built my first fly rod, I made the mistake > of adorning it with a decorative diamond wrap. I > was subsequently informed (by an internationally > renowned Fly Angler and IFF board member) that fly > fisherman don't want a lot of decoration, they > want classic simplicity, akin
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A full Wells grip on a three or four weight seems like too much material. If you are mixing EVA in it this would increase the visual and actual weight even more. I add another vote for the Rod Geeks/St. Croix selection for function and affordability. I’ve had avid Sage fishermen get tongue-tied after complimenting my unlabeled builds on them.
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The only other variables in-play for the first four guides, besides spool diameter, seems to be blank taper and reel seat mounting height. Blank taper can be noticeably different in the butt sections of rods. Tapers aren’t necessary at even rates (flat or straight) from butt to top. My Rainshadow Eternity 6’10” drop shot rod has less taper in this zone than does my St. Croix SCV70MF. This likely
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Rainshadow offers these in their RX6, RX7, and RX8 series. The first two of these are lower in price as they are lower modulus. They are going to be in the wheel house of being less breakage prone while still being reasonably light.
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The RV6 only comes in titanium frames with either > SIc or Torzite rings, which are two of the > smoothest and slickest ceramics available. Their > properties significantly reduce friction and thus > line wear. > Norm Along with this, it stands to reason that the butt guide is far from bein
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Is there conclusive evidence that a tall 6mm guide wears line more than a 10mm guide. It stands to reason that there is a slighter larger contact surface with the smaller guide. This could either cause more wear because of surface area or less because the pressure is spread-out more. I’d be surprised if it’s a meaningful difference either way. I make many hundreds of casts over a season with 10lb
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I don’t know enough about surfcasting to give value-added advice. My general advice is to keep the first builds simple and try to really go for neat work. Less is more in function, and you can’t make a mistake on stuff like thread art, decals, and snake skin when you choose to avoid their use. Sir Colin Chapman of Lotus cars fame said “simplify, then add lightness”. I think this pertains even mor
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It’s seldom I build a casting rod anymore without an RV6.
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In the 5/8 to 1oz. crankbait spectrum I’d build the RodGeeks/St. Croix C578MHM. I have yet to since I decided to go up to 1.25 ounce crankbaits, but its high on my list of future builds. This is based on how much I like it’s 7’2” little brother.
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“Deep” is a very subjective crankbait term. I’ve seen it describe 3/8 oz Bagley balsa models that dive to 8 feet and 1.5 ounce crankbaits that dive beyond 20ft. Along with the Point Blank model I described above the St. Croix/Rod Geeks SCV72MM is an amazing blank for the 5/8oz and light “deep” crankbaits. It’s probably my favorite rod I’ve ever built. I’m throwing an OSP Blitz Max DR on it about
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One of the greats, condolences to his family and his friends at NFC.
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The United Composites CE800Mega would be worth a look. It’s a 25-40 lb class with moderate action. I have their UC79Mega in the same line rating and it handles 12oz jigs at 550 feet. These are well built blanks and I have fully drank the dual helix punch. The 3 oz rating is for casting, not jigging.
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While I use moderate graphite rods for most crankbaits, I prefer moderate-fast blanks for the big, really deep divers. I find these rods cast the heavy baits and handle their resistance better. My go to is the Point Blank PB761HM. The Duo Realis Crank G87-20A is normally what I fish with it. Maybe “deep” needs to be defined a little better here. The term seems to be used differently for rods vers
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Wow, fishing in a remote spot can really test gear. About thirty years ago I was in a remote part of the Kodiak Archipelago and five rods gave way to one fly rod and one baitcaster with ten days left. Let us know how it all went when you are out, Eric.
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Glad it worked out. I’ve been using Gen4 since being kindly provided some pre-retail. The first rods aren’t too many years old, but they are as clear as when built.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > With product specifically designed to do a > specific job available I just don't know why > builders utilize products that are not proven for > the desired function. This has always amazed me. Seldom is the savings more than a couple of bucks, too. Rod adhesives, epoxies, paints, and finishes need t
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I’ve caught quality fish of several saltwater and freshwater species on Torzite guides without issue. St. Croix put them on heavy salmon rods (I own one). Surfcasters use their high frame double footed guides on heavy outfits. These are made in up to a 40 ring size. That on a surf rod requires a lot of strength. Some percentage of any product fails, especially when the product has a weight sa
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I’ve gone in and out of crappie fishing as I’ve moved around the country. I’ve been friends with a preeminent crappie jig builder over the last several years, though. He preaches cutting weight everywhere possible and extreme sensitivity for rods. He won’t even try a rod he deems as being too heavy for its size. I handed him my third ever build from about thirty years ago and he pronounced it as
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I find 4.5 to 5.0 size guides pretty hard to beat for a variety of leaders, knots, and stops. They will pass anything they need too if the angler takes care rigging. They are still small and light. I usually use thin ringed sets like Torzite.
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I have to second Mark’s suggestion. I’m mostly building now with UltraPoly, without CP treated threads or coating, with tone on tone Voodoo Dust. I especially like their metallic pigments for this method. I haven’t used this exact combination, but the ultra poly dark blue with Voodoo Dust Voodoo blue jives with what I’ve liked in maroon, Dunn, and turquoise spectrums. I usually mix one to two of
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You can see fairly different fishing preferences in this thread. This shows the value of building your own rods rather than just settling on what factories specify to meet the expectations they’ve previously created. Drum are a plentiful and durable fish and I very much enjoy a well orchestrated netting. I’d probably never go with a heavier line and rod setup to do a leader wrap and water release
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The Phenix Elixir in the following configuration seems about right. B-FX-S 801-1X 8? 1-6 lb 1/32-1/4 oz Telescopic Moderate Fast 4 0.441 1.23 oz
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I’ve not encountered the use of 40-50lb leaders on 30lb braid. I’ve seen heavier leaders used for toothy fish and lighter leaders used for everything else. From what I remember about the teeth in the jaw and those in the throat of drum, this line/leader choice isn’t inherent to me. I’m not doubting as much as trying to understand as my instinct would be to use almost an inverse setup to prevent b
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I’d use 25H, 12H, and 7L followed by seven to eight size 6 running guides. This is also what the KR calculator recommends for a 7’9” rod, with shaft tip at 13”, and 14-17lb mono. If you want to force the calculator to select a 25 size guide you have to go with the mono input. This makes sense with your example as you are using heavier braid. This setup jives with sizing up a build I did with a 20
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