You will likely deform the grip trying to hard unless you use laquer thinner. 3/4 or 7/8 ID would be a much better option. DNA dries to quickly to be a good solution for that, while laquer thinner seems to slide right down with no issue whatsoever. I tend to use mineral spirits as it does not dry out as quickly as DNA, but for the one I know will be tougher laquer thinner 100% does the trick.
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I use the widest popsicle sticks I can find on 4 axes to distribute the pressure over the 4 rather than 2 180 degrees from each other. I rarely have an issue anymore since doing that.
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These guys should have whichever one you need
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off the top of my head without looking around....Gator glass FT586 might work.
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I prefer mineral spirits to acetone for rod bond cleaning. It doesnt dry as quickly as DNA, but leaves no residue. DNA or 91% isopropyl is indoors for little things cleanup. I prefer alcohol when gluing up cork grips as there is a lot less epoxy as opposed to EVA being slid down a blank.
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The problem with the old foulproof guides is that they are stainless. Fishing braid near a jetty will inevitably pick up setiment and saw through them over time. Probably the last guide I'd recommend in this case.
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I've done it. Black wraps, no decoration and in a rush just to fish a rod 2 days later. Of course now its all decorated and pretty and I just wanted to fish the rod that trip.
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Been a little while since I did any slick butts, but if I remember correctly, the small OD diameter EVA is good fit.
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Walt, I should have also mentioned that I use chromaseal or flexcoat CP. I much prefer the Chromaseal although I keep the flexcoat around still.
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Bill, aside from that fact, 6-15# rated rod will often FAIL to break 15# class mono. This is sort of the idea we are getting at here which is why I tend to fish the lower end of the line class rating on most blanks.
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I built everything I have EXCEPT one thing. Sometimes for the price, you just cant beat the functionality of a commercially available lathe.
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The second coat of finish should level everything out. If it does not, wait until it thickens up a bit (an hour or so) and dab some finish in the missing spots. It won't move enough to seperate by then, but should still level out nicely. The first coat often gets ridgy (for lack of a better term), but my 2nd clears it all up and its like glass. I used to worry about it, then tried just going over
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I welcome you to use that example to your customers. My fishing buddy even told me don't put it there as he has 60degree rod holders. I had backed off the drag significantly, but it did not matter with the high stick situation I had created. Russell, yes I push everything to the brink at the onset (trolling is the exception) and back off as needed. As you know with bottom species, the outcome
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I use madeira for the color selection mainly. One coat of CP is all that I have found that is needed, but it must be a heavy coat AND let a minimum of 3-4 hours. I've tried sooner and just gave myself problems. Went to overnight drying on CP or CP in morning, finish at night, and all those problems disapearred.
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I use a drill bit to get the closest fit with no reaming, then use a smaller sized reamer while spinning the grip as I go. I usually end up with a nice snug fit at the fore end and near the butt end maybe a mm or 2 off of dead center. If I know I am not using any winding checks, I will turn everything together, but never glue up the top ring to the grip until it is seated on the blank with a cork
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I'm similar to Russell in that I fish very light tackle in terms of the species I target. My 20# gear is generally not similar to my buddy's 20# gear. On a 20# outfit for example. I'm fishing 12-15# of measured drag on a 20-40# rod. This is awfully similar to most of my buddies 40# gear with a "locked down" drag. Learning the limitations of the blanks you use does take time as no qua
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Take a look at some roller blade wheels. Super smooth bearings in them.
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Bill's point is a good one. I would have to guess on the foregrip. If that is the issue, it's a guide placement issue. Moving the butt guide closer to the reel even just an inch or two may make all the difference in the world.
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I was able to try out a sample and have been impressed by it. Many characteristics of a high build finish, with the extended pot life of a light build. Superb bubble release, and as with any finish good leveling. I have a test couple samples that have been out in the sun for approx a month or so now over white thread, and that thread so far still looks bright white. Time will tell on this one,
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Nope, he's strong enough to get out of it and only leave footprint marks LOL
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As a side note, get the bench grinder ready. The feet are NOT preground on them.
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I tend to always end up just a little to the left of my wanted center, so I prefer to glue my reel seat and foregrip after the butt wrap. Common sense tells you teh guides are not on prior to this all happening. this way, my wraps are always centered where I want them rather than off just a hair like i seem to get if i glue everything up first. I still think billy wraps backwards, but it works
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Technique and/or personal preference for comfort. I like my rear grips around 9-10", but I often build a redfish rod for a kayak fisherman who wants down to a 6" rear grip sometimes. The function of that is to give the angler more room to move the rod in very limited space. (I don't kayak fish, hence my longer grips)
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Mark, your rod will be a good bit slower now. Might even be a good cranking rod now.
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I agree with Bill here. There is nothing comparable to bending two blanks side by side to see how close they are. Theoretically, an extra fast can be slower than a mod-fast if they fall within their own categories.
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Two completely different types of popping. They are both called popping but vary significantly in style and species sought after.
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I nearly always have a few overlaps. It's just about impossible not to. I also tend to close it in with a darker color. If you are closing it in with black and no cp is needed, just overlap it a few times and call it a day. You'll never see the overlap points as they'll become invisible. I used to be annoyed by it, but now I just fill it in and don't worry about it unless its really bad. One t
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How much space do you have left? If its not more than a couple MM, try pushing everything together like it should be and continue moving in, while pushing out as if trying to move that gap to the center area. You may find that those small gaps disappear. If they are larger this will obviously not work and something happened with your spacing. If you are down to a single color by this point, an
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Electrical tape is one of the quickest guide fixes I know of. If you have single foot guides, a wrap or two around the blank and then the foot on top of that and keep wrapping. The cushion from the tape underwrap will help prevent it from slipping out.
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The absolute safest way to do it is CP before you tie it off. This wont really allow the threads to move after the fact, but it's also a pain to get a flat thread tie off with this method. This is the way I personally do it, and is by no means the only way. I do tie off my wraps before doing CP, so I know where you are coming from. The basic problem ends up being "slippery when wet"
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