I disagree Paul with your statement the 6 ft rod will have more power applied to the fish for equal amounts of load subjected to the angler. The only way the noodle rod would win is if you bent it enough that it's effective length from hand position to tip was shorter than the other rod. The amount of movement necessary to get there though would be extra work over time.
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With all the good blanks out there today I wouldn't go old school anymore. The stuff today is so much better.
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I'm with Fred, burgundy or garnet with grey or graphite grey is something I want to try playing with.
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I see Cabelas has a 13 ft light line european livebait rod still, the last one I messed with was over 10 years ago so they may have changed a bit, but the discriptions given in the review section sound like it may be a close match to what your looking for.
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Tom, I have a rod on the 65LXF the multi-modulus dual helix construction makes a very durable rod that you can lean on pretty heavily. Wouldn't be my choice for reds but the others should be fine. I use mine on smallies, browns, etc. up to the weights you mentioned with no problems.
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Swifty/Diamondite to the left in the sponsor section.
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Putter has a great video on the subject, @#$%& is where I purchased mine.
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Mark Crouse may have a blank that will work. Many european blanks have very light tips and good backbone. I have one from years ago 12 ft 3 piece rated 2 to 8 lb (1 to 4 kg) line that would pick most crappies out of the water if needed. The first section is all light tip the rest firms up very quickly, the butt section is huge for a rod with it's rating.. The problem is they are spendy.
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Superimposing purple, fushia and scarlet thread on a pic of a Fly Logic reel that color seemed to work. I especially liked the purple. If it's not a birthday gift , let her pick the color.
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Ken, I've one of the early GLX 6 wts and I got to tell you I'm glad G Loomis has a warranty program as it's never survived a wilderness fishing trip of Alaska. Just doesn't take to being beat about in a jon boat running up a down the river all day, being used as a tern swatter to keep them from using your head as a punching bag as you walk down the bank, or something simple and a regular occuran
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Bryan, His email address is cfb@cfburkheimer.com. Kerry does make some fine rods, but the ultimate, I don't know about that, he makes a phenominal spey rod. The only blanks I've seen sold outside the shop was at Andy Dear's shop, Lamar Fishing, some years ago. Andy can maybe help you more than most of
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Guess I don't get it, at least for me, I've found over the years fly fishing with different rods that my performance and enjoyment on the water had far more to do with the end characteristics of the rod and lines used to do the job than a few tenths of and ounce or rod action. I've fished many rods and much prefer the ones that work with me to get it done over the ones that I have to push or modi
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Greg, Your email is hidden, I may know where a pre-IPC 4 piece is at. Email me.
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If I remember right Bruce uses one of his grips(different in some ways from the AmTack grip, for one it's lighter), doesn't build it as a blank thru so the rear grip is hollow, than put his heat pack in the rear grip tube. Haven't tried it yet, but this looks like a quick and easy way to extend a rod blank also.
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The St Croix 3C70MHM noted above.
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Looks like it's going to be a pretty close fit to the reelseat as the blank is about that diameter at the butt. If your going to shorten the grip I'd do it on the buttcap side as the reelseat side is counterbored to accept the step on the end of the reelseat.
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Both are a little darker, Laguna being the closest. Natural Burl is looks like cork chunks embedded in a darker brown vein like matrix. Laguna is more one color.
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Batson has two blanks that were specifically designed for peacocks. The IC747-3 and the IC847-3. The fellow I built them for originally had me build the 847 first and he really loves that rod, he's used it on many additional big fish species and in presentation types over the years including trolling. The one problem with the rod was throwing the big heavy plugs that were necessary at times. He s
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Good stuff.
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Helmut, The Sage site has all that info under "RESOURCES" than Guides Spacing, if I remember right. They normally use smaller/lighter guides near the tip on their lists than any other site I've seen.
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I think that's the old guide spacing formula where they added 1.25-1.5 times the distance, depending on the rod, to the measurment of the next guide to get your next guides spacing. Way to much work for me. Static distribution only takes maybe 5-10 minutes and a little eyeballing to do.
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If I remeber right Marc, the article on smallmouth river rods in Volume 7 Issue 1 will be a good place to start. I believe the rod described there, by Tom, was for kayak fishing.
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Karry, The 4600 is a narrow spool version of the Abu 5500/6500 casting reels we use for salmon/steelhead. There are the 3 piece spin bass blanks and the 2 piece popping blanks at Batson. I've used my 4 power popping rods on bass many times for crankbaits, jerkbaits, rattletraps and the lighter spinnerbaits.
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Chris, When I renewed I got one extra copy of the most recent issue, but it didn't happen again even though I had a few issue overlap. Hitting the renew button seems to work I guess. LOL. I haven't seen myself anything like you discribe pricewise. I intentionally reordered early last price change for that reason and I got the subscription extension at the cheaper price. Tom just asked me to rene
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Spinning? Casting? Centerpin? Need input.
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The Sage site says they use a #6 stripper , size 2 standard wire, than progresively drop with thin wire versions to 2/0s. The old SLTs and I think the SPLs went down to a 3/0 thin wire and I would also if it casts well with your line. Something like a 6, 1, 2/0 than 3/0s to the small loop tip is where I'd start. The SLTs and SPLs all started with a 10 stripper instead of the TXLs 6 stripper s
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Fuji has made small ringed guides in various configurations since the 80's that I know of, probably earlier. The old Fuji featherlights and match guides for instance have been used here for a long time.. Pac Bay, Batson, and Sevier still make the match guides also.
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What was new about them? That may help. They make lots of single foot guides in different materials.
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Depends on the rod's line weight. Sage probably still uses Hopkins and Holloway guides. I can get the sizes maybe in a while when I'm at another computer.
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Also I think the Mudhole red or green framed/gold ring guides aren't recommended for saltwater use. Fuji makes ruby ringed guides but they are like $200 dollars a piece or something like that. Might be able to find some agate or agatine guides that are fairly red but I think they only come in the heavy silver nickel or brass old school frames, not sure how they hold up in saltwater.
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