If you aren't passing knots, you can go as small as you want. I use 3mm guides with mono up to 0.014". If I used heavier mono, I'm sure it would be going through 3s as well. Monos that creep above 10lb. test may require a larger tip top when spiral wrapped. Joe Edit: I should have noted that I use Batson 3mm guides.
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Lou, The CB66M, while a very nice blank, may not have enough backbone you for her use. I typically fish mine with cranks that the manufacturer designates as 1/4oz. and they really load the blank. It takes a very soft casting stroke to launch these baits with this blank. Are her worms open hooked or T-rigged? If she only throws open hooked lures, she can have a lot of fun with the CB66M.
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I'm getting ready to try using some ribbon for a decorative wrap, and though I would ask a couple questions. I have the RM article, and it makes good sense. I'm working with 2 ribbons, and plan to overlap them to create a barber shop pole look. I am working with ribbons that are wider than I would ideally like to use. The ribbons are 7/8", but they are an exact match to the thread colors
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Barry, $2 for a set of syringes is cheaper than replacing bottles of epoxy. I too picked up some Diamond II and am looking forward to trying it. At minimum I would pour some alcohol through them and syringe some alcohol through at least 3 times and allow them to dry before putting them in a different epoxy. Joe
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This should help. Joe
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On the ISJ783, you may worry about wet line grabbing the blank. If you are pitching light lures and using mono, as the line ages, it will have a tendency to wet itself to the blank. It is a problem that has occurred for me on occasion. It doesn't affect casting much, but when pitching light lures, the line may grab and cause a backlash if the spool isn't stopped when the lure enters the water,
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The Shimano Citica is a great reel for the money, and shouldn't break the bank for your first baitcaster. Anything above the Citica is icing on the cake, and it really depends on what you want to spend. Joe
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Chuck, I thought the same thing. Then I thought some more. 1. You do not need to taper the handle blank. 2. You know where extra support will be on the handle section and what material will be there, so you do not need extra material in the handle blank, read thinner walls. 3. You could use a handle blank that is larger diameter than the rod blank with a ferrule near the front to slid
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Tony, You should wrap snugly. After the wrap is finished, you should be able to move the guide with your fingers, if you can't move it, then your wraps are too tight. Joe
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Tony, On a rod that will lay on deck like a bass rod, many spiral to the side of the handle. On reels without a level wind, most spiral away from the handle, as that is where the thumb is that guides the line. The line only 'knows' how to follow its constrained path, it really doesn't care which way it skirts the blank in a spiral. Joe
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Sanford, Thanks, I got it now. Joe
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Sanford, Why do you spray the rod bond with alcohol? Personally, I've found the rod bond itself to provide plenty of lubricant for sliding things into place. Joe
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Nathan, I feel your pain, being a broke grad student myself. You are right on track. Check with your supplier to know whether or nor you will need to order reel seat arbors, as I don't think many grips sets come with one. I will echo the comments on the reamers. Either build them or buy them. I picked up a set of the Batson reamers a while back at a fair price and they are very nice.
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Ray, Mine was Swifty Diamondite. All of my rods finished with it, have had a slight tack on the surface that lasts a couple of days. I should note that I do not add heat to accelerate the cure time of the Diamondite as some do. The room in my basement where I store my rods after the finish sets overnight is probably somewhere in the low to mid 60s, less than ideal for curing finish quickl
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Rick, I did the same thing before with Diamondite. It was one of the mistakes I made on my first build. The finish will come back crystal clear after a recoat. I now wait 2 or 3 days before I even think about wiping the Diamondite with anything. Joe
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Spinning ISB 822.5 will be a useful all around spinning rod Casting ISB 802.75 soft plastics IMB 783 or 843 for spinnerbaits, jigs, and heavier cover plastics For crankbaits, I personallywould go with a graphite rod from either the CB or IP line, the power depends on the size of cranks thrown. I chose the CB 66M for cranks because the majority of mine run 8' or less, and I don't have enou
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Jay, You will definitely be pleased with the RX8+ 822.5. Mine is built up as a casting rod, and VERY versatile. Most of the pre-shaped cork and foam come pre-drilled. Check the product description, and it should list an inside diameter for the bore. Joe
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Wade, Don't let the price fool you. The Batson RX7 blanks are very nice. I have a SJ781 waiting to be put to use this year, as well as a couple of others. With plans to target smallmouth, walleye, and pike, I would recommend a blank with a little more backbone. Perhaps the 822.5 or 802.75. My 822.5 is probably the most versatile rod I have. The XF actions of those blanks give you a ver
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I ran into an issue last season where I would get an occasional hang in my pitch when I was using a size 3 guide. It took a while but I narrowed the problem down to the stiffness of the line cauing it to rub the blank, and pinch in the size 3 ring when making the sharp angle and the beginning of a pitch or flip. It does not seem to be a problem when actally casting since the sharp angle is not pr
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Roy, 1. What type of line are you using? 2. What diameter is the line? 3. How much weight are you using? At times, if you are using a "heavy" mono without enough bend the line as it passes through the top on a spiral wrapped rod, the line will push up and rub the blank, and not allow line to flow freely. "Heavy" on one of my spiral wrapped rods with a 4mm Batson tip t
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Scotty, Thanks. I'll have to keep an eye on my drag as the reel ages. Joe
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I'll second the Citica. The Citica, gives a lot of bang for the buck. It is a reel that meets my expectations at a reasonable price, not to mention they have been quite durable over the years. I don't own one of the latest revisions of the Citica, but have heard plenty of good about them. Another option, especially if you prefer a round reel, is the Shimano Cardiff. They go for around $100
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Tom, It shouldn't matter where the blank goes through the reel seat. The distance between the bail and your knuckles is set by the length of the stem on the spinning reel. I could see offsetting the blank to the bottom of the seat increasing the chance of line slap a bit, but not contact from the bail assembly. Is there something I'm missing here? Joe
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James, I remember seeing the stuff in the catalog, and it sparked my attention for use as a Tennessee handle for spinning rods. I think Netcraft sells the bushings to cut and form cork ends and internal bushings for a Tennessee handle. As far as using them to mate with a reel seat, you will probably have to shape them a little. If the ID and OD are similar to the tubing that Batson Enterpri
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I have a Rainshadow RX7 CB66M, 1/4-5/8oz, medium power moderate action rod that I recently built for crankbaits. It seems like a great blank at a very nice price, but I'm 5 or 6 months from being able to give an informed opinion on it. They also have a 7 footer as well. There were a couple great threads on crankbait blanks and their properties with lot of recommendations not that long ago, t
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Oops double post.
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Ken, Are you looking for a crankbait blank? What are you wanting more of distance, feel, power, or something else? Joe
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Tom, It sounds like a great addition, and best of luck with the book! Your first book was a great resource when I started building. I'll be sure to pick up a copy after it hits the press. Joe
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Michael, For example, when I was working on my crankbait rod (Rainshadow RX7 CB66M), I found that if I wanted a neutrally balanced rod, it would take about a 12" or 13" handle, not that I wanted to balance that rod, but I was curious. So, without extra weight, it may require a significantly longer handle than you want. I like my handles between 9" and 10", as long as the
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"We found, after subjecting our test lines to a constant load of 3 pounds over a length of time just long enough to measure each samples' change in length and write this value down, all but one fluorocarbon product failed to recover fully from the stress and had permanent strain or deformation." Robert and Steve, it sounds as though they took the measurement after the line finished
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