Scott, I think Tim's specific technique - requiring stress distribution as his most essential criteria - is all you should need as an example. It's very specific. From there, you'll just have to use your imagination. For my dropshot rod, if I used the 27X method, I would have needed at least one more High Frame Guide - located in such a fashion that, combined with its weight, would have re
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Jeremy, Yes point in fact, my most recent spinning rod was build primarily for Drop-Shotting in Lake Powell. Subtle strikes from Smallmouths dictate creating a rod with the utmost sensitivity. Shorts casts to submerged structure(s) is usually the most "fruitful" method. Casting out great distances in a lake with huge drop-offs to well over 200' would definately not yield positive
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Jeremy, On the contrary, I'm finding myself defending my reasons for NOT using the 27X method. Dave, who originally posted this topic was entitled to hear views from ALL sides, but when someone came aboard and insisted that the 27X method is all but here to cure cancer and end poverty, it became a little obvious that some of the facts had to be set straight. If I want to build a rod to cast
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Tim Collins Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you saw how I modify the Simple Spiral wrap . . > . . some of you would fall on your sword !! If they saw how I wrapped the guides on my last flyrod, they'd try me for Heresy.
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Richard Kuhne Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You guys are making a mountain out of a molehill. > Measuring the diameter of a reel spool surely > can't be that big of a deal. What does it take? > Ten seconds? How is that going to take you any > longer than plotting the intersect point by > putting your rod on a table edge or finding the &
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Greg Weaver Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- ...... If you have paid attention to all of the above posts, you will know why the 27X method is better than the reel spindle upsweep, so don't worry about it, just use it..... Wow! I'm sold! That's really sound advice Greg! The ONLY thing that we can conclude with regard to the 27X method being "better&q
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Then my apoligies Tom. So often I run into scenarios where the word "feel" (inaccurately) constitutes solid "evidence". Your having a machine with controlled input certainly negates variances of input, since it's a much more controlled and repetetive testing device than say the "feel" of the human hand. It does indeed provide a much more objectively reliable outco
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Mike Barkley Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Torin, I believe that he means that it is a more > accurate method of locating the optimum location > of the choker guide. He never mentioned the term > accurate casting Mike, again, "optimum location of the choker guide"?? Optimum for what? If I did everything the way everyone else did
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > .......It proves to be far more accurate than using the arbitrary spool upsweep method.............. Far more accurate? How so? Now the casting ACCURACY improves based on the 27X method? That's a bold statement. My method will also result in a 10' rod and 6' rod with the same reel seat and same reel hav
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Upsweep angle plays almost zero role in casting - > the line isn't shot off the reel, it's pulled off. > This is why spool diameter is the more important > factor to work with when going for best casting > performance. > > ............. Tom, I understand that line is "pulled off"
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Richard Kuhne Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The 27X method seems to me, to locate the choker > guide "just about right." It does not matter how > close or far from the tip it is. What matters is > that it is the right distance from the reel spool > face. With the spool upsweep method the amount of > upsweep is so arbitrary as t
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The 27X method often results in having the choke guide very near the tip. Sometimes it's so near the tip that I find it hard to use this method and I definately wouldn't consider it applicable to the new guide concept. What I often do is figure out where the choke guide would be using the 27X method, then figure out where it would be using the "upsweep" method, and then locate the cho
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David, I would probably build that rod with the Am Tac Ring locks. They do not have to be Titanium if they are rinsed after use in saltwater. There has been some talk about how well frames finished in black hold up to salt water environments. Just be sure that if you go with these, you don't over sand the guide feet so much that you expose the unfinished bare metal beyond the wraps (and thr
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Travis, I actually am approaching this topic with an open mind, which is why I referenced using the LIBRARY on this site. This library offers more than one technique (or opinion) on how to construct a custom rod AND the benefits to using such techinques. I did not provide a single closed minded opinion that advised how to construct a flyrod using ONE pre-established method that involves usi
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Again if this outfit is a one stop shop for you, all to more power to you. I'm not intending to be "ungentlemanly", but I would actually be VERY surprised if there's not more out there like me who have asked why this outfit continuously swoops in with such a comprehensive Single-Minded method of pushing their product. I have not seen this kind of behavior coming so consistently from a
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Herb, He provided nothing more than a RECIPE on how to make "chicken soup" using only HIS ingredients. Most often, the best soup is made using a variety of ingredients. Some manaufacturers excel in areas where others do not. It is up to us (including you) to inform others of the benefits of branching out from the "norm" to experiment and evaluate the variety of offerings
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Ernie, I have to agree with Darrin here, and I'm glad he brought up the shape of his guide feet. I use them for that reason alone. It eliminates the need for the Forhan locking wrap. For Titanium, they are VERY reasonably priced, corrosion proof, and super light-weight. Well worth the investment. And with Ring-Lock, they feature yet another added security - the combination of which is unp
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That's great Karry, but as he's stated he's been building rods for a couple of years now, so he doesn't "fit" into your category of a first-time builder. He is merely a first time FLY rod builder, and to encourage one "set" method for building a rod (even to a genuine first-timer) doesn't exactly help anyone - let alone OUR craft. They might as well buy a factory pre-made ro
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John, You've stepped into the vast expanse of the numerous possibilities of adequately fulfilling the niche of constructing the ultimate weapon to render prey helplessly slayed - a CUSTOM FLYROD. Problem is, what are those prey specifically, or will there be a variety of such prey? Casting from a boat or wading? Sinking lines? Bigger hands that require a thicker grip? Too numerous are the
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Fred, If you like the specific characteristics of certain rods that you currently fish with, you may find that other manufacturers will have lines of rods (and blanks) with very similar characteristics that are indeed "rated" for different lines. Check out the CCS Data Site (to the left) and you might find some of the rods you currently fish have already had their corresponding &quo
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On a light weight flyrod like this I'd consider using one ceramic stripper (size 10), then the rest - single foot wire snakes (one size 1 and the rest 1/0 OR 2/0). If you really want to use single foot ceramics, you could probably get away with size 4's, especially if your leader to line connection is an integral Whitlock super glue splice (usable only if you have a braided dacron core fly line
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If your leader to line connection is very low profile, I don't see why you couldn't use size 6's as running guides. And if your using a sink tip, chances are your leader will be so short that the connection will never see the guides while fishing. Also, the sink tip portion of the line is smaller in diameter than it would be if it were a full floating line. I have a fly rod I throw an 8 wt. fl
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Touche'
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Extruded Tapered Leaders on a Bamboo?! See you are an innovator! I still love the traditional bamboos. Never pass up an opportunity to cast one. I frankly think they cast better in wind than any of the plastics, so by that token they are innovative.
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Oh Boy, here we go. Ceramics DO NOT cost less to manufacture, which is why they are not used. These B I G name manufacturers already charge an arm and a leg for their "cookie cutter" products, so how can they justify charging even more for a rod with better guides (which they don't even make) that require less effort to install? These big companies are all about marketing. You can
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Double foot snakes?! Double foot snakes require twice the wraps and twice the thread finish of a single foot snake (or single foot ceramic for that matter) which negates the advantage of the lighter weight wire guides. I have two virtually identical 9 ft. 5 wt's and know for a fact that the one I built with ceramics shoots line further than the one with single foot snakes. For me the added adv
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Jim, I must have completely got lost in this new St. Croix IPC Technology thing, but I thought that it applied to ferruled blanks (multi piece), and if Frank's looking for a one-piece - is there IPC Technology involved? Not that that's your main point, but I'm now starting to wonder what IPC really is. I have two virtually identical one piece St. Croix spin jig blanks, one pre-IPC (2004) and
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Rohit, I would caution you on using that style of grip with flyrods. I've cast flyrods that have Maniform grips (similar to a hammer handle) and I absolutely hate them. In flycasting you will want to change your position on your grip throughout the day due to comfort as well as what technique dictates and the maniform grips allow you to comfortably grip the rod in one way and one way only! I
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I got a cork slicing jig from Golden Witch several years ago. Could have easily made it though! It too is a vacuum style jig, but I've found that the cork rings rotate and occasionally slip out using the vacuum, so I've abandoned the vacuum for double stick carpet tape. Time consuming placing carpet tape on cork rings, but it ensures that the rigs are not rotaing or slipping out. Oh, and I us
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I push directly into the blank with the blade between two wraps with my X-Acto knife to cut the tag. Then there's absolutely no nub to contend with.
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