Daryl, Here is an easy solution to your problem. Place your rods and dryers in a cabinet. Then, add a fire suppression system to the cabinet that will activate in the case of a 300 degree elevation in temperature and then both you and your bride can sleep with no worry about fires ever again. -- Or you add a 4x12 foot outbuilding that is at least 200 feet from any other struct
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Bob, Actually, there are a lot of drifting setups that use 15-25 foot drifting length. Often, these are relatively short rods that are on the ends of 10-20 foot extensions to have the line at the desired distance from the boat. For example - a trolling boom: Best wishes
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An informative article on BFS>
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Lance, Why does a double foot snake guide holde the line straighter than a single foot guide? When the line goes through a snake guide, the line only touches the guide in one spot. When the line goes through a single foot guide, the line only touches the guide in one spot. What am I missing that gives rise to less sag by a double foot snake guide? Take care
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Josh, The only thread tensioner that I have ever used is the simple one where the thread runs through a pair of tension disks, the tension is set by a spring and an adjusting nut. I never cared for putting tension on the spool, because there are too many things that can go wrong with this method and is subject to change as the diameter of the spool changed. Essentially billions of artic
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Jack, Perhaps a better term to use when referring to guides of this type would be single foot FLY guides. Essentially, they are simply a metal guide with no insert in the guide that has only a single foot. For example - from Alps - You also notice that the sizing is different than spinning and casting guides. In this case, Alps guides are sized from size 2/0 - 6. Best wishes
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Charlie, The main advantage of a spiral wrap is to reduce rod twist while fighting a big fish on a strong rod. For the case of an ultra light rod - this tends NOT to be either case. i.e. the rod is a very soft action low powered rod. The fish being caught on a rod of this type tend NOT to be big and strong fish with a lot of pull. Hence, the reasons for building a rod as a spiral wrap
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Rob, If you are using thread to form a pull loop, stop using thread. Rather use 10 lb braided fishing line. For myself in order to make it easier to see, I place a pink bead in all of my pull threads to ease of finding it again when it is put down or dropped. As far as thread tension is concerned, I typically use size A thread and adjust the tension so that I can just barely rotate th
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Just take a couple of cardboard refrigerator boxes. Cut and tape them together to form a rod room and when the rods are coated and drying, simply place the box over the top of the drying rods. Obviously blow them out very well - outside to be sure that there is no cardboard or other particles that might get onto the drying rod. Or, if you wish, just build a cabinet on the wall with a drop
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Mike, This is pretty easy. Just pick up a nice ultra light rod with the tip action you desire, and trim the butt to the length needed for the rod and go ahead and build it. I went to school at Bozeman and at that time was just getting into fishing. But, I do recall that my friend and I caught a lot of nice trout using simple general purpose 6 foot rods that today we would simply call ult
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Tim, If I am building a grip of cork rings, I essentially ream each cork ring to be near the correct size before assembling and gluing up the cork rings. By doing this, it makes the job of reaming so much easier and quicker. It is just a matter of minor reaming to take care of internal glue and a slight more cork for the perfect fit. As a result, when doing the grip turning on the la
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David, You might get other answers, but the best adhesive by far is Hypalon adhesive:
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Michael, Glad that your system works well for you. Best of luck
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Matt, For all of the spiral wrapped rods that I build I offset the butt guide about 5 degrees to compensate for reel line stacking. After taping the guides on the reel, I will mount the reel that is to be used on the rod, thread the line through the guides and then, pull out about 100 feet of line onto the floor. Then, keeping some tension on the line on the line after it has gone thr
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Ernie, Good post. For myself, I make a point to do all of my thread locks, main thread or trim thread on the side of the rod that is normally not seen by the user I do this for the very same reason you mention. The first time that I did it, I thought that it would be a big deal to users and or critics of the rod. But, in actuality, I have never heard a single word about it, since
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Daryl, Pretty easy to do this actually. Essentially, they will take a typical reel of say 7 ozs for a spinning rod and add weight to the butt of the rod until a particular build type balances with a neutral appearance. Then, they will use that recipe for the rest of their production rod for this particular model. In times past, I essentially did the same thing for about 5 years. In ge
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In current days with lower quality cork, and more expensive cork of all kinds, I simply go with filler for all of the grips that I make. I use Elmers Pro - golden Oak wood filler that is good for both interior and exterior and is waterproof when cured. I simply take the glued up cork ring on the lathe and take the shape of the cork down to about the 2nd grit of sand paper or about 180 g
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Mark, The solution is very simple. One note: I never apply thread coating finish that is warmer than about 70 degrees or so. I have found that if I use finish warmer than that - I seriously affect the cure time of the finish. i.e. warmer temps really accelerate the cure time. Now, if you have your part A or your part B gelling and or crystalizing, Just put the bottles - one at a
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David, I really cringe when you use the word Acetone and epoxy in the same sentence. Yes, acetone mixes with and thins epoxy all right. But, the addition of the acetone changes the properties of the epoxy in a non good way. If you need to have the unthinned finish flow a bit more than it will with no thinner, just just bit of "GENTLE" heat. --- For the original post:
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No need to even have a discussion. If you have a product that works and change to a different product that does not work, let the new product find its quick exit to the trash can and go back to your original product or a different product that comes with excellent reviews. The fact that this one product is affecting everything you are doing - means it is time to dump the product and find
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Bruce, You have a couple of choices. You could glue on the trim ring with the fore grip off the rod or with the fore grip on the rod. If you do it with the fore grip off the rod, before you place any guides in place, you will have no worry bout getting glue on the rod blank, nor on the threads of the reel seat. For myself, when I do such a job, I wrap a nice fitting piece of round m
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David, If you only have a slow rotation motor, then, get a faster variable speed setup. This setup, just makes finish application so much easier and much quicker. Best wishes. Note: If you need help with the motor or motor choices, just drop me an e-mail and I can help.
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Ernie, I have repaired many many rods over the years. Often, when I do a rod repair, I may replace one or several or all of the guides on a rod. If I have replaced one or more of the guides that will require to be coated with thread finish, I will look overt the rest of the guides, If I find that the guide wrap finish is looking beat up on the other wraps, I will go over the wraps with
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Mark, You have an issue. Your issue that you need a good adhesive to glue to gether - two easily to glue up materials. I have used epoxies of various types through out my life. I have never used an epoxy that had the brand name Rod on it to glue together anything including fishing rod parts or total rod parts. I have used 2 minute, 5 minute, 15 minute, 30 minute, 45 minute, 60 mi
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Kevin, The solution is simple. Use an Arkansas stone for the final prep of the guide foot. For example: Or the Red Ruby stone for an even finer finish. After prepping the guide foot, run the guide over the stone so that the underside bottom of the guide foot is absolutely smooth and free of any of the tiniest hook or sharp spot that might scratch the finish. Polish the und
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This is really weird. About an hour ago, I was reading article about Aurora - However, in this case it was the name of a prototype Spy aircraft from the mid 80s. What are the odds of the same word that come from entirely different worlds being read the same day?
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Well the winner will be the famous fisherman who will take the pot by extolling the non existent advantages of such a construction. The complete idea is just simply nonsense and is not worthy of even a single word of consideration. Next subject please.
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David, Just wondering, if you just put on one coat of unthinned epoxy, wouldn't you have the same effect with less trouble and an equal finish. If necessary, just use a bit of gentle heat to thin the finish as it is turning to let is better flow out? I just don't practice the idea of adding thinner to any epoxy. Rather, I just use a tiny touch of gentle heat - AFTER the finish has been a
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Marc, Try a black sharpie. Pretty tough and long lasting.
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Actually, there is one case for the spiral wrap. This is the case, if one calls using a spin casting reel - and rod a spinning reel. If that is the case, then since the reel is mounted on top of the rod and one normally uses a casting type rod with this reel, one could say that a spin casting (spinning?) set up would benefit from the use of a spiral wrap.
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