Gudebrod Blue Dunn .............................
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I use a Stanley SurForm tool to get my grips to shape and slightly over size. This will handle different hardnesses of materials and different sizes of materials with ease. Then 80, 120 and often times 220 grit papers on blocks. 220, 320 and 400 grit papers by hand. ..........................................
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Hand writing for me. Decals just aren't "right" for me. Being a tatoo artist...I'd imagine you won't have any trouble with it. I think one of the biggest problems for most...they view it as writing. For me, its about copying lines. No different than any sort of drawings. ..........................................................
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Mo With a digital caliper...foot sitting flat on one jaw...to top of frame... TLSG4 - 0.2055" TLSG5 - 0.272" TKTSG4.5 - 0.2325" Shoot me an email in a couple weeks. I've got some #5's coming in. .....................
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More info needed. Fuji and Matagi checks are different. Matagi has a few styles of checks. .....................
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Mo Nice catch. I tossed each one back on the scale and confirmed... TKLSG 25 - 44 grains - 0.101 ounces TKLSG 20 - 28.9 grains - 0.066 ounces TKLSG 12 - 10.5 grains - 0.024 ounces TKTSG 4.5 - 1.0 grains - 0.002 ounces TYSG 25 - 45 grains - 0.103 ounces TYSG 16 - 17.5 grains - 0.04 ounces TYSG 12 - 10.10 grains - 0.023 ounces TLSG 5 - 1.40 grains - 0.003 ounces TLSG 4 - 0
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Ditto Mike Pedersen's statement. In my real life I work for a large manufacturer. We make very little of "our own" product. But we do manufacture some things under our own name. For the most part we provide OEM components. Company A's product can be virtually identical to Company B's product and virtually identical to our own product. A different color, a different tool used,
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Mo - TKLSG 25 - 44 grains - 0.101 ounces TKLSG 20 - 28.9 grains - 0.066 ounces TKLSG 12 - 10.5 grains - 0.024 ounces TKTSG 4.5 - 0.8 grains - 0.002 ounces TYSG 25 - 45 grains - 0.103 ounces TYSG 16 - 17.5 grains - 0.04 ounces TYSG 12 - 10.10 grains - 0.023 ounces TLSG 5 - 1.40 grains - 0.003 ounces TLSG 4 - 0.80 grains - 0.002 ounces My #5's got back ordered... ...
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Ditto .....................................
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My 1st coat often shows "ridges" of the thread. My goal is to just get past that point. But...it really doesn't matter that much. Mostly, I'm just looking to remove as much air as possible and firm up any nubs of thread I may have. Once the first coat is set, its easily shaved with a razor blade. .................................
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This is the stuff I like to clean up between the 1st and 2nd coats of finish. I use double edge razor blades snipped in half to create a single edge blade. .................................
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Personally...I just like to put a thin first coat down. And I do it fairly quickly. Just enough finish that the threads are fully saturated and not sticking thru. Any little fuzzies or air bubbles can get trimmed up between the 1st and 2nd coat. The 2nd coat is for the final look and build. ........................
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Thank you Gary. And thanks guys. I use a Staedtler brand MarsMatic700 technical drafting pen with opaque white drafting ink. About the smallest size I've been able to keep consistently unplugged is a size 0.25. The smaller sizes, while they work well with translucent inks, seem to have trouble with the high solids content of the opaque ones. I wind up cleaning the tip a couple of times
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In a heated drying box. I run it at about 90°. ...................
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Just like with finish you can push the cure by keeping it warm. I put my glued up grips in my rod dryer at 90°. (provided I'm not drying rods) ........................................
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I use Andy Dear's mandrels. I don't wax my mandrels...ever. Epoxy won't hurt them either. I glue up and shape on the very same mandrels. Every now and again I'll scrape them to get them cleaned up. Masking tape is one of the best ways to get a bit of an increase in the diameter of your mandrel to get a grip to fit snug. You should be drilling out the rings close enough that a si
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The St. Croix's are some of the best I've used. I really like them. .......................
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I've built a few XML's for customers. They were quite pleased. The quality and performance of the blank was very good. ..........................................
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??????? I'm not familiar with those. I still have the catalog and they're not listed. IMB 662 6 ft 6 in 1 8-15 1/4-5/8 Fast 5 0.54 2.5 $82.75 IMB 702 7 ft 0 in 1 8-15 1/4-5/8 Fast 5 0.53 2.4 $86.00 IMB 663 6 ft 6 in 1 10-17 1/4-3/4 Fast 5.5 0.57 2.2 $87.50 IMB 703 7 ft 0 in 1 10-17 1/4-3/4 Fast 5 0.59 2.6 $94.75 IMB 803 8 ft 0 in 1 10-17 1/4-3/4 Fast 5 0.60 3.1 $103.50 IMB 664 6 f
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Thanks guys. Not sure how I missed those... Rob - What did you use to polish that seat? ..............................
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I'd swear I've seen them somewhere recently but I'll be darned if I can find them now. Is anyone making a spin seat out of aluminum with a window in it? My customer really likes the AW12 Window seat with woven tubing from American Tackle. But its in a fly configuration with the end for inletting into a fly grip. This may have to do, but would much rather have a spin configuration. Than
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I always sand in the 400 grit and higher range. And I sand wet. Pay close attention to your slurry. As soon as the color starts turning to a charcoal grey, you're down to the graphite.
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Some guys like crankbait type blanks and popping blanks for their jerk baits. Some guys don't mind a long rod. In which case, that IP will be fine. Personally, I want a rod that is 6' to 6'6", Fast action and pretty stiff. Mag Bass or Spin Bass rated up to 3/4 ounces. I wouldn't touch that IP for my jerk bait rod. Just depends on what you like in a jerk bait rod. .......
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I just built an IM series MB 664-1. The competitive model for Loomis would be the MB782 IMX. The weight of the blank is actually slightly lighter than the GLX. 0.075 ounces. Action was 1° faster than the GLX. And it was slightly stiffer. So...for something that should compare to the IMX, I felt it stacked up very well to the GLX. ....................
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I'd have to check my pulleys when I get home to see what speed I'm running. But its fairly fast. I do most of my drilling at fairly high spindle speeds. Easing the tool into, and thru, the piece is what I feel is most responsible for a clean cut. My brad point bits do very well when plunged slowly. But when making quick work of rings for a handle glue up, there is quite a bit of tear o
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Forstner bits. I do just fine with good brad point bits. But you also need to drill slowly. And I ream my cork before installing it. But when I need a nice smooth hole for an inlay or putting components into the cork, I use a Forstner bit. .........................
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Roger I personally don't like the feel of a rod with just skeletons. Casting or spinning. I was recently doing a build for someone, on a heavy Bass rod, and they wanted the Minima seat. At the last minute he contacted me to change to an ECS seat. One of his other rods with a skeletal casting seat had flexed so deeply that the reel came out of the seat. Not fun when fighting a big fish.
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Is Betty Boop copyrighted logo? ...............................
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Ditto...microwave .....................................
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Check out Thorne Brothers. ...........................
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