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10 years ago
Brian Avery
Arg! I can't find my calipers anywhere! I used a tip sizer, and the id is 1/4 inch. The section is probably about 4'6". Probably a 3/4 or 4/5 wt., judging from the action and feel. I bought several of these 2nd blanks years ago at the Rod show.
Forum: rodboard 10 years ago
Brian Avery
Jim, I've been looking for the these blanks as well. No luck yet. I do have a tip section, but I'm not sure of the weight. I'll sell if you want.
Forum: rodboard 11 years ago
Brian Avery
I recently built a casting rod on a mud hole X camo blank. The first round of epoxy didn't gel, as I tried measuring with a graduated cup and Yorker caps instead of syringes. I decided to go ahead and finish over this mess, and the top coat gelled fine. Over time, the ungelled first coat blistered up through the top coat, so I decided to strip the rod and start over. It stripped easily, excep
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Brian Avery
Thanks for all the input! I believe I will install rings. The butt cap is gone, so the rings probably slipped off ages ago. The only info I have on the rod is a stamped label that says "North Lakes". I posted a picture on the misc. photo gallery, if any of you would like to look. Mr. Kirkman commented on it and he believes as you do, that it was a Tennessee type handle with slip ri
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Brian Avery
I have been asked to refurbish some antique glass rods. I have one in particular that I'm not sure what to do with. There is a cork handle as one would expect, but there is
no reel seat at all. It is definitely a spinning rod, however. Does anyone know how the reel was attached? I don't think it was intended for a Tennessee handle. The only marking on the rod said "North Lakes".
Forum: rodboard 16 years ago
Brian Avery
Do any of you have a preferred method for cutting texallium? I did a test cut on my bandsaw with the factory blade , and it seemed to perform ok. But I'm interested to see if any of you have a better way.
Thanks!
Forum: rodboard 16 years ago
Brian Avery
Thanks to all for the input. When it comes to a drying box, I am assuming that you construct the rod as usual on a wrapper, and then transfer it to the drying box. Are there any suggestions on doing this without bumping the wet rod during the transfer? In spite of being careful, accidents do happen, and I would hate to ruin a rod trying to get it into the box.
Are there any less expensive a
Forum: rodboard 16 years ago
Brian Avery
Perhaps I'm being obtuse, but I am a little unsure about the activation process for diamondite. I have read the instructions and scanned previous posts on diamodite, but I'm not sure if I need to heat the finish with the incandesant light until it reaches the desired temperature and then remove the light, or if the light needs to stay on the finish until it is cured. The directions say "..
Forum: rodboard |