When I first started building rods, I used a product called urethane bond. As it dried, it also expanded. It worked great for reel seats and I never once had a failure. In fact, the only time I wished I had not used it was when I had to change a reel seat on a trolling rod!! My question is, what do you think of the polyurethane glues like P&L, Gorrilla glue, elmers ultimate etc. They exp
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Yep! I had just finished a nice 11'-0" 1 piece Lamiglass graphite surf rod. About 3 casts in with a large Gibbs pencil popper, and POOF!!! I had grips, reel seat, and my new Newell reel left in my hand!! The other 8'-6" found its way to the bottom of the Pacific about 30yds from shore. Luckily the line did not break and I was able to retrieve the rod pieces guides and lure. Lamiglass re
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I could be wrong, but I believe anytime you change or alter a factory rod, it will void the warranty. I think you would have to send it to them and have them do the repairs to keep the warranty intact. Just a guess on this one, but I could not imagine them covering non factory repairs unless you were an authorized dealer/repair shop.
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I think I am more a believer in, "Sometimes it is easier to beg for forgiveness than to ask for permission"
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I just received some (a lot of) 3 pc. 9'-0" 12wt blanks, and I had a few questions. How long of a fighting butt (2", 3", 6") and I would imagine about a 6 inch grip above the regular grip? I have yet to have a need for this size rod, but thought I would build it just for fun. What has worked for those of you that build these or use them all the time. Thanks!!
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Hands down........THREADMASTER!!!
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Try www.flyrodcrafters.com and talk to Bob. He probably has it even if it is not listed on his site.He has been supplying me bags, and tubes for awhile. In fact I just picked up some bags for 2 pc bamboos with an extra tip. I believe they are about 7 or 8 dollars. Fast shipping, and good quality stuff.
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Just wanted to let everyone in on my latest project outcome. Been working on a very special rod that was time critical. Various problems from thread issues to finish issues have plagued me on this one. Re wrapped several times due to my own perfectionistic ways, then when I did feel it was right, I ended up with some finish problems that once again, found myself stripping and re wrapping all over
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Okay...........I have a bunch of green blanks. I have been doing so many green rods that it has stalled my creativity!! The typical dark green on green looks nice, but I would like to mix it up a bit. Also did a few with the maroon thread that looked okay. Anyone have any interesting color combos for wraps on green fly rod blanks?
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Does anyone know of any tricks to get rid of the surface scratches on glossy blanks. I have some flyrod blanks that have a number of surface scratches that are so numerous, it almost gives those areas a matte looking finish. The sections were banded together, so I am figuring the scratches are a result of rubbing against the plastic bag and themselves. Short of epoxying the entire blank, are ther
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Luis...........I believe Golden Witch carries them.
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Hey Derek, I will be at Lake Ralphine tomorrow..............could I borrow your flipper? Just kidding!!! I work a lot with contact cements in the wood working industry, and I imagine it is the same process. Coat each piece, and let them fully dry separately. I know it sounds weird. How does dried glue bond? But it does. When they are totally dry, put them together. We used to apply force to m
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I have 5 flyrods that I purchased through www.beulahusa.com All of their guide series graphites come with an extra tip. They offer blanks but I have never enquired to see if the blanks come with two tips as well. James and Margaret are terriffic people to work with. Hope that helps
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So were these the predecessors to the new float rods????????? LOL
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Just looking for some feedback from anyone who has either cast one or built on one. I am looking at 4, 5, and 6 weight 4pc models. How did they perform? How do they compare to comparable blanks? Thanks, Paul
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I have to say that in my experience a 9"-0" to a 9'-6" 5 or 6 weight rod will be the best all around. Sensitive tip with plenty of backbone for those really big fish. Denny Rickards has a website (www.flyfishingstillwaters.com) he sells blanks that Diamondback manufactures specifically for him for stillwater fishing. Denny is one of the best stillwater guys out there, and has these
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Okay.........it seems that the two part epoxys are the way to go so.............which ones do you recommend for flyrods? Amtak? Trondak? Flex Coat? etc. This is all new to me, heck, last time I built rods Gudebrod was the only thing available!! Ooops.....did I just date myself!! Thanks, Paul
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Hello again, What is the best course of action and finish to use over waterslide decals? In my earlier post, I noted that the Perma Gloss wrinkled the decal up quickly. Should I switch to a 2 part epoxy finish? Should I prep it with something before I finish it? Thanks, Paul
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Ooops!! It is the one part perma gloss (Precatalyzed)
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No thinners or solvents were used. The CP went on and had 4-5 days before the first coat of U40 went on. Then the second coat of u40 went on about 4 -5 days after.
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I think I know the answer, but here is what happend. I finished wrapping a rod as a gift. Gloss black blank, purpleheart reel seat TiCH guides and hardware, purple wraps with mettalic pink tipping. I added a decal with pink lettering. Applied Trondak colorlock and all was okay. First application of Trondak U40 finish all okay. Last night I applied the second coat and the decal deforrmed and the
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