I recently received a bunch of blanks from a friend who wanted them out of his way. They are 6'-6" 3 wt blanks that were left in one pc uncut. I have sighted down the blank, and the taper is straight (No slight swell for the ferrule). I am just wondering where these would get cut and how the ferrulling would work? My thoughts were that maybe these were never intended to be cut? Possibly s
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Chuck, Most hobby stores carry a CA Debonder that has worked well for me in the past. Thanks, Paul
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Steve, What I do and have done in the past is to heat the ferrule, but the trick here is to heat it really well, then immerse it in water, or let it cool completely. That usually breaks the bond, and it will usually slip right off! A word of caution though....... do not use any twisting type motion for removing!! You will damage the bamboo!! Only pull in line with the rod. Oh, and I almost for
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Chuck, When I did window and door millwork, we used one of three different products. Titebond waterproof (I think its II or III), Resorcinol, or Weldwood. Never had a single callback for repairs. Hope that helps, Paul
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Mark, Could you email me the info on the 1/4" rings? I would like to construct the grips for my bamboo rods with 1/4" ([email protected]) Thanks, Paul
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Mark, I am after two. I need them for a Garrison style binder for glueing up bamboo rods. I will look at the sewing places in town. Thank You, Paul
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I am looking for a supplier for the thread tensioners that have the numerical dials on the top. Very similar to the flexcoat ones. I think I have seen them on sewing machines as well. Thanks, Paul
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Hi Karen, Could not find the 18" on the website. What is the cost per ring? Thanks, Paul
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I searched the archives and came up blank although I know this has been discussed before. I have 2 blanks that have the manufacturers specs and name silkscreened on the blank. Any tips on removing them without scratching or damaging the blank? Thanks, Paul
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Curtis, With silk, I typically order 2 spools, but this has more to do with color lots, mistakes, 2tip bamboo, and being extremely picky about my wraps!! 1 spool should be enough(Unless you are doing long wraps), but I would not be wasteful.
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I have been asked to build a flyrod for a relative, and the request included an acrylic (Clear) reel seat insert. I have milled acrylic before, so that is not a concern, but what does concern me, is how brittle the material can be and its susceptability to chipping and or cracking. I have ruled out a mortise style insert due to the fragilness of the mortise edges chipping out, so I will go full r
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Bill, Try the following places www.rushriverrods.com or www.genuinebellinger.com both have a very reasonably priced ferrule set. Ferrules are in 64ths ( 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 etc) and are measured flat to flat. Just a side note, I have heard good things about using a product called Powerbond for epoxying them on. Powerbond is sold through archery supply houses and is used for bonding metals to gr
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Russ, In my experience, with fingernail bits, I have found that I can dress the carbide up with a slipstone made for carbide. It works well for awhile, and I get more use out of the bit. I usually hone the flat side of the carbide then gently dress the profile. Sending a fingernail bit out to be sharpened tends to remove carbide to a point where the profile changes slightly, and may no longer
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Not sure if it will give you the desired effect, but I have used Trodak's cork seal on burl corks.
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Alan, It does not decrease the rod length unless you cut that much off of a blank. You should still have roughly a 9"0" rod if you run the blank through and attach the fighting butt to the blank. On the other hand, you could increase the rod length by 3" if you were to add a fighting butt that is removeable via the reel seat. Now, if you are talking about the distance from the for
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Don, What I have done in the past with cork is similar to what Orvis would do on their one and two weights. They would use cork with two rings, and totally flatten the area where the reel would mount. Cork is soft and workable enough that you could do more of a mortise, but I would think it need to be done by hand. You could make a sanding block that has a cove of the appropriate size, and glu
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Ralph, Yes, I have and do make my own inserts. I agree that it can be done, in fact I use a lot of cap and ring seats on the bamboos I build. Goldenwitch hardware is nice for cap and ring seats because they have addressed the issues of fit and snugness. I guess personally I have found that cork tends to compress at the reel foot over time, and then you have the looseness. You can turn or shape
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I own several of these rods (Different weights) and I went with the sized down struble up locking nickel silver reel seat same as the factory rods. It is light (Maybe not as light as all cork with rings), but not significantly heavier. My reels on these rods are too valuable to me. The thought of hearing one plop into the drink and watching it bounce along the river bed was enough to keep me from
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I have a bamboo blank that needs new ferrules. The original ferrule stations were cut much smaller than the required size ferrules. What would be the best way to remedy this? I thought about applying some sort of epoxy to build the stations back up, then recutting them to the proper size on my lathe. Sound good? Or does anyone have a better solution? Thanks!
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Kevin, Could a longer wood insert help? Just a thought as I am not too familiar with that seat. If so, you might contact Les @ Inserts by Les unless you have a lathe?
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I would have to say I have had the best luck with rod-bond. I can assemble several cork flyrod grips before anything starts setting up. Heck.......sometimes the open time is long enough after what I initially set out to do, that I start looking for other things to glue up!!! My family now knows not to leave things laying around when dad is glueing grips!!
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Try www.flyrodcrafters.com Bob has some very nice tubes and bags at a reasonable price.
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Don, Cabelas has a 7pc 9'-6" blank but it is a 7wt. I typically go up a line weight so maybe they would load nicely with an 8wt. On clearance for 39.99!!
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www.beulahusa.com has a 9'-0" 7 piece 8wt I have their whole guide series rods and they are nice fast action fly rods. Nice people to deal with as well. Talk to James, he may be able to get the blanks though he does not list the travel blanks online. Worth a try anyways!
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Mike, If you have problems with the Delta, and want to get the Jet, Woodcraft has the Jet with a Nova 4 Jaw Midi chuck for $269.00. Great deal and a great chuck. Package deal is $10.00 less than the price that the lathe sells for on its own. Hope this helps.
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Any one have any experience with this two part epoxy? If so, what do you think.
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Tom, I know you say Flex Coat makes an 18rpm dryer, but in your opinion, if you were going to make your own from scratch, would you still use the 18rpm motor, or would you go with a different speed motor? Thanks, Paul
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Mark, I am by no means an expert on this, but of the 9wt and 10wt rods i've built, I have used a 20, 16 and a 12 (3 strippers) on each rod. I also have a few factory Sage and Orvis rods that utilize the same configuration. Just my 2 pennies....... hope this helps. Paul
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I know this is a "Opinion" question, but I thought the users of the board could provide some input. I have a Powell 9'-0" TiMax 3pc 12wt fly rod. Powell sells the completed rod for $279.00 wholesale/direct. What would you say is a fair price for a blank?
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Dave, If I were going to buy a dedicated rod lathe/wrapper, I would go with either the Renzetti or the Anglers Workshop custom power wrapper (I believe thats its name). Both look to be serious machines that can do a lot. If you are just looking for a lathe to mill cork, eva, or reel seat inserts, Woodcraft has a special on a Jet mini lathe that includes a very nice 4 jaw nova chuck for $269
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