Thanks for the help everyone. I intended to have one 3 wheel system strictly for the wood and then get something separate for buffing the metal.I would never use the same buffing wheels for both. I had email Andy Dear regarding his 3 buff system and would have definitely bought one but sadly they are no longer available.I have seen the Beall system advertised before and mentioned it to Andy
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I want to make a 3 buff buffing system for my mini lathe and was wondering if any others out there have made similar setups,and if so,how they went about putting it all together? What parts(mandrel,spacers,etc) did you use to mount the buffing wheels and how did you mount the setup to your lathe? I want to be able to polish both the wood inserts and the nickel silver on the seats I have so
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I really like the Gudebrod Classic Twist colors,especially the black/orange,so a new source for a similar type of thread would definitely be most welcomed.
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My big fish/big river single handed rod is a factory made 2pc 10ft 9wt Loomis GLX.It is VERY light weight for a rod of this size but the longer length does make casting it over a full day a bit tough compared to a 9fter.I kind of wish I had gone with a 9fter,or even a 8wt in the 10ft range.This 10ft 9wt rod is made for controlling your fly line on big rivers,and while it is great for that,it woul
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These are great snake guides. Check out Rodbuilder Supplies if you are looking for a source of them.
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I prefer to use the fold down Fugi keepers.When not in use they fold out of the way so there is less chance of your line catching on it and less chance of it getting bent out of shape. I use the smaller ones for rods up to 6wt or so and then switch to the larger ones after that.
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I too absolutely LOVE burl wood and would love to find a source of larger stabilized pieces.1 1/4" square or larger by 7" long or longer would be great. California Buckeye Burl(the color range of this wood is amazing),Amboyna Burl,Back Ash Burl,Box Elder Burl,and Maple Burl are some of my favorites.
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Thanks for all the advice everyone.Looks like a lot of differing opinions though,LOL. I have access to Rod Bond and Titebond III already but would have to order in CA glue.
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I purchased several beautiful Bellinger ULSB Deluxe seats recently and had them shipped to me by mail.Unfortunately the seller(it was a private deal) sent them in a large but thin cardboard envelope with little padding inside to protect them and when the package arrived,it was literally torn in half,and one of the nicer seat inserts was broken in half right where the swelled butt starts. The
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I think it would depend on the distances you plan on fishing at most of the time. The CCS data posted on that blank seems to suggest that it is pretty true to it's line weight rating so I would think that a standard weight line would probably be a good choice for most situations,while the slightly heavier line would be better for fishing closer in.
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Maybe give Bob Meiser a email(see RB Meiser link in sponsor's list) to see if he has anything similar in size or if he has any personal experience with that particular blank.
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Thanks a bunch David!
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Very strange as none of the Sage blanks I have ever seen were pre wrapped in any way,just the white dots put on them to help you align the rod on it's straightest axis.
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I also think that Tru Oil looks incredible on burl cork,but that it ruins both the look and feel of natural cork. For natural cork I really like U40 Cork Seal.
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Here are 2 wrap colors that look absolutely gorgeous with the holographic ring guides, The 1st is a Angler's Workshop purple color called Grape(# 811 I think) with CP.It's is a really stunning shade of dark purple and looks FAR nicer than the Gudebrod purple IMHO. The 2nd is Gudebrod Cobalt Blue(# 50) with CP. Both of these look amazing with the holo guides,especially when trimmed with a
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I've used both Recoils and Ti/SIC Fugi's on numerous rods and have often taped a set of each on the same exact blank(this is the only way to truly find out the differences between the various guides on a blank),gone to the local park with various lines,and done some serious test casting while taking notes.I'm no expert distance caster by any means,but I know one thing for sure,switching from Reco
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I prefer a full wells on 6wt and up.It looks good and is very comfy in the hand. I use reverse half wells on lighter line weights.
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Without CP I think you will find that it darkens almost to the point of the thread color being indistiguishable from the blank.I did some test wraps on a grey blank and was very disappointed with the look.It darkened a lot more than I expected. With CP I found the color to be a bit too bright for my tastes as well so I did a few more test wraps over a couple of underwraps,one silver and one go
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Can't really say which blanks compare to the Z Axis' action,but I have a couple of recommendations for you. Check out the Rainshadow RX8+,Dan Craft SIG V,FT,and FTL,and CTS blanks to name a few. All of these blanks offer performance equal to or greater than most of the big name company's top blanks,yet cost considerably less.Do a search here on this website for feedback on these blanks and
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When I built my 0wt SLT I wanted to do it the same as the factory rod(REALLY wish I had been a bit more creative with it now,LOL) so I emailed Sage regarding the thread and was told that it was Sunburst 200 without CP.Whether this is true or whether it is a custom color I can't say for sure,but that is the color I was told by them anyway. I did my rod with it and it is definitely close in colo
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I have also been looking for these particular burl cork rings for a while now.They are very similar to all the natural burl cork rings that most have mentioned,but they look like they are not quite as tightly packed together and have a more swirly pattern to them with a lot less of the really light colored chunks that don't match the coloration of the rest of the ring. I have natural burl cork
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I recently purchased a 7ft6 4wt,but haven't had a chance to build on it yet.I've only slipped a grip on to it and gave it a wiggle. It does feel nice,but is quite a bit heavier than I expected(much heavier than any similar sized graphite blanks I've used),so time will tell how much I like it I think.
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The finish on the SIG V blanks is actually very nice for a grey blank,much nicer IMHO than the Scott G or Loomis GLX,both of which I have to compare them to the SIG V. The SIG V use to be available in a unsanded gloss finish blank just like the Scott G,or a completely sanded finish blank like the GLX but now it comes in a "matte clear" finish that shows the spiral tiger eye type of p
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Struble U20 I believe and Hopkins & Holloway guides
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Thanks so much for the tutorials Raymond!
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Hi Barry,I too would love to get copies of those feather inlay tutorials. I tried to email you but your email address is hidden so I am hoping you might see my request here. Thanks
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Thanks for the responses everyone,I guess I should have given an example of the coloration I would like to find instead of just saying "light". I did a quick search under "birch bark" in the photo gallery and based on the examples there,I guess I would like to find bark similar to what Terry Henson or Craig Godwin have used in there handles.Both of these examples seem a bit
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I am planning on building some birch bark handles soon but unfortunately there is little bark in my area so I need to order some online. I foolishly purchased some off of @#$%& around a month or so ago and it turned out to be a complete waste of money.Based on the @#$%& picture it seemed decent enough.There were lots of large pieces and it was advertised as being cleaned,but when I got it I wa
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I'd go with heavy wire Recoils,combined with 2 good(Alconite,Zirconia,SIC,Nanolite,or Gold Cermet rings) double foot ceramics on the 5wt and a full set of titanium frame SIC Fugi Concepts on the 8wt.
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Check out the CCS Data Site.Something like a 4pc 9ft 4wt or 5wt Dan Craft FT with the bottom dropped could work well. Steve Kartalia was kind enough to measure many of the Dan Craft blanks both as a complete blank and with the butt end dropped,and put the info there.The 4pc 9ft 4wt or 5wt FT with the butt dropped gives you a 3pc 6ft10 blank with a ERN that would be right in the range you are l
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