I e/mailed customer service 3 days ago and I'm still waiting for a response. I probably should try them again. MB
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I like the copano and turn it just like you would wood, with a gouge and finish with a skew. I then sand it down to 400 grit and apply tru-oil. The copano isn't smooth to the touch like regular burl it's more like Andy said the feel of leather. I like it and have not used a regular piece of cork for quite a while.
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Thanks Lance I just read mine this morning and it was an excelent tutorial. Thanks for sharing. MB
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Billy, Ron Walters took a bunch of pictures and I'm sure he would be happy to share. If you contact him I'm sure that he would be happy to send them. It was fun and some day I hope that I can make my way out and enjoy a NERB's event. MB
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Al, Thanks for putting the get together, together. I learned a lot and was intrigued with the marbling, it's the first time I've seen it done. It was also very nice to meet the people in the area and to put a face to the people I've corresponded with. Thanks Mark
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Billy I love the Idea but that means that I have to quit doing checkers LOL. I'm sending you e/mail to let me know it this qualifies as new. I think this is a great idea some times you need to push the envelope. MB
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Paul, You may want to look at the Lamar link on the left hand side of the board. I think he has his distributors listed, if not I know that Bingham and Fishsticks4U are distributors for Andy. I use a threaded mandrel on a midi lathe with out the extension but have a 4 jaw chuck that will let the mandrels slip inside the headstock and only use the length of the mandrel that is needed. The longer o
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I would use a thin kerf Japanese style back saw. They don't take a lot of cork when the cut and you can get them with a fine tooth blade so they don't tear the cork when cutting them. MB
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Al, I'll be there and look forward to it. Thanks for getting people in the area together. I have a rod that would be a good project for a cross wrap and have never done one. I'll bring it along and maybe you or Ron can show me where to start. Thanks Mark.
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Stan: I haven't gotten a chance to check on birch bark around our area as of yet, but the snow is starting to recede and I hope to get out to the woods and look around this week end. If you still would like some bark please e/mail and I'll be happy to send some to you. Thanks Mark Blabaum - Mark@hallada.com
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I would think that you could use an Excel file to do this on the inexpensive side. I know the true inventory management systems are expensive. I sell auto parts for a living and the soft ware and support is almost $2000.00 per month. Good luck Mark
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Mud hole has some that would fit the bill. I think to make the GLoomis syle all you would have to do is turn the insert around.
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I do much the same as Rich, I use a 1/8" parting tool and repeat the plunge cutting to the end of the piece and then come back with the skew to straighten out the work piece. I don't have a Bedan but after looking at one on line I may have to invest in one. That does look like it would be a better option. MB
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I have a Delta Midi and use it for all of my turning needs. I looked at the Jets and several others and could not tell the difference between them. IMHO the Delta is a lot of bang for the buck and I would not hesitate to buy another. The one thing you need to do though is buy good tools to go with it, no matter how good the lathe if your tools won't stay sharp and true your not going to be able t
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Stan, I never gave Dan Craft a thought but I'll take a look at them. Kevin, Who distributes the American Heritage Blanks? John, I'll take a look at the Batsons as well. The fast action is what's throwing me. A lot of fly blanks would work but he doesn't want a big bow in the rod and I think he may be right about a fast action for sensitivity on the light jigs. There are a lot of steel
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I know that this has been discussed before and when I searched I didn't find exactly what I was looking for. I have a person looking for a pair of Crappie rods and want's a 7'6" to 8' two piece rod. He also was very specific and he wanted a light power with a fast action. What blanks would you recommend for this application? I think that there is a very good market for the longer blanks for
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Here's a split grip with burl and another in burl I like the burl my self, it does weigh more but the weight is in the back end of the rod and on a split grip the weight is not that much more than a regular grip. I only use eight rings for both pieces of the handle so the total weight is not that much to begin with.
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I think the main difference is a little different action in the blank. Bass is more of a reaction bite (once they decide to bite they bite and hold on, usually) on artificial baits and you want to feel it so a little stiffer tip and more power (it’s hard to set the hook with artificial) is in line. Walleyes like a tip with a little more give to it (you have to give them time to take the bait) s
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Christopher, I have used a Brother or my labels and have only had problems with it on rods .380 or smaller. The problems I have had on the smaller rods is the outter cover on the label will lift when the epoxy is applied even with CP. I have found on the smaller blanks you can over wrap them like Stan Grace did with his fish and it will keep the outter portion from lifting. It gives the label a
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I never gave a thought to Gander Mountain for a place to have a meeting, but it's a win, win for every one. You have a central place to meet they generate traffic through the store every one is happy. It's a great idea and hopefully it will spark an interest in the non builders that are passing through the store. Great Idea and I'll be at the Madison store, see you then. MB
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Stan, I think that Ron Hossack has been using some pine bark on some of his grips I've left a link for you to check out. I think that these pictures are of unfinished wood and it may bee a little hard to fill in the pores of the wood with conventional finishes, but I do like the look of it. Mark P.S. It was very nice meeting you and I was glad you wife was at the reception to keep my wif
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Jerry, It was very nice to meet you and Billy at the booth. My son thought that your name tag was the coolest thing he had ever seen. He had a good time and now wants to try his hand at wrapping. BTW I think that your use of CA may be the answer to the problems I have been having going to a third ring on my inlays. I'll give it a try and let you know how it works out. Thanks again Mark.
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I have used an epoxy made for bar and table tops (I'm at work and can't get a name right now) on burls and porous wood. I use 2 coats and sand between each coat and finish it to 600 grit and then put Tru-Oil over the finish after it cures for a couple of days. I know that your not supposed to use tru-oil over the flex coat or thread master but this finish has no warnings and is supposed to be res
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I know when I bought my blanks they were listed as "Sold as is no Warranty". If you want to call the phone number for ATC is (509) 888-2187. I'm curious myself if they would offer a good will warranty to try and get you to buy their new blanks. I did like the old Shikari's and for the price I paid for these blanks couldn't go wrong with or without warranty. Mark
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I don't think that it makes much difference as far as sensitivity my problems have usually been with casting spinners. Usually once through the day it never fails that the front half of the rod goes flying off along with the lure during a cast. I have never lost the top half but it is annoying when it does happen. Mark
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You may want to look at the 3C69MLXF from St Croix. I think for a shakey worm rod you may want to have a little less back bone. The shakey worm uses a drop shot set up with a plastic worm that you shake with the rod to give it a subtle movement. I would think a stiffer rod would impart to much movement on the worm.
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Russ, What size ring width (1/8", 1/4", 1/2") and heigth (1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2") were you looking for? Also what type of wood did you want? I'm sure that I could turn something for you if needed and I will be at the show Sunday the 18th. Mark
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I like you have been less than satisfied with the production cork handle kits. I like the look of the burl cork and use that for turning in most of my handles. The one draw back is that the burl is heavier than regular cork, if your looking for something special you will probably have to turn it yourself or have a one of a kind done for you. MB
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The Shikari site has been closed and can't be accessed at this time. I don't have a sheet as I used the Shikari web to figure out what they were used for. I know there is a reason for the numbers but can't remember them all. Sorry Mark
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I have cut down brass fittings for gold winding checks, but as of late use gold metalic thread to finish without any winding check. MB
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