Fred - I don't plan on charging the customer for the rebuild of the rod. I did however learn an important lesson; Build enough profit into the price of the rod to do warranty repairs. This was not in the equation the first time around but it will be on the subsequent ones
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Tom - No you didn't rain on my parade and you are correct that they probably should not have replaced the blank. They however did replace the blank and sent along a form letter of "Rod Usage and Safety Tips". My friend will be getting a copy of the letter and I'm keeping several to hand out to future customers. Thanks for pointing out the obvious and I will be talking to him about rod c
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I have a friend that is in the BFL and He's a little rough on equipment. I built him a casting rod on the old Green Elite blank a year ago. This spring he broke it after lifting a fish over the side of the boat. I sent the broken rod back to St Croix on Thursday and received a replacement blank (the new brown Elite) this morning. That's customer service, I can't say enough good about the way St.
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I usually apply mine on a bare blank just ahead of the wrap and then coat with epoxy. I'm sure there are many different ways to do it, this is just the way I do mine.
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I'd think that it would make a fun spinning rod to use. I also think that I would leave the length alone, I use quite a few light rods over 7' for Small Mouths and Pan Fish and like the feel of a hard pulling fish on light line. I use a lot of long rods with 6 pound mono and never have much problem with break offs as the long limber rod makes a great shock absorber. I think if you turn this into
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One trick that I picked up from Sam Fox is to use clear finger nail polish to seal the edges of the decal. Sealing the edges this way does a couple of things, it keeps the epoxy from loosening the adhesive on the decals and it helps to smooth the transition from the decal to the blank. I have been using it under threadmaster and have had no reactions and it's been working well for me. MB
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Mike I have read on here before that Corian doesn't make a good bumper if you are using braid line. I know from using corian for trim it is fairly soft and it probably will groove over time.
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One thing to watch in your build is make enough on the first rod to cover your labor on the next 3 they bring into you for warranty. Most of the larger manufacturers are starting to offer a limited (read short term) warranty for the simple reason that the bass anglers are tough on equipment. Many have 6-10 rods rigged and laying on the deck waiting to be stepped on, most don't own a net and like
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Thanks Guys. MB
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Billy I think the Malibu Barbie Pink or the Cotton Candy Pink would work. Probably more towards the Cotton Candy. Thanks MB.
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One of the guys I work with wants a rod with pink wraps, he says it's for his girl friend (yeah right). Looking though the Madeira and Grudebrod charts on line, I can't pick out a true pink color from the charts (it may be my monitor) they all look reddish to me. Can any one give me a part number for a good pink color? Thanks Mark.
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I have been using Tru-oil on my cork and wood, but I have been finding that it wares off fairly quickly. I'm starting to use the Spar Marine Varnish (gloss), but I don't have enough time on my grips to see how well it holds up. It feels like the Tru-Oil on wood but it seems to build up faster and doesn't seem to come off with alcohol like Tru-oil does. So far I prefer the Spar but time will tell.
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I do mine a little differently. I use rubberized cork with out a hole in the center, but if you have a plug I would epoxy that into the hole first and let it set up, then sand flat. I usually use a forstner bit a little larger than the blank and drill a hole in the center of the rubberized cork about a 1/4 deep. Epoxy the cork on the end of the rod and mate and epoxy to the fitted grip and clamp,
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Chuck they were selling a Jet at the show. I have a Delta Midi and a Nova four jaw chuck. I like the Delta but looking at the Jet at Woodcraft I would say they look basically the same and it seems the Jets are easier to find. MB
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Billy I just bought a flipping stick blank from Binghams and will try to build one for myself (hopefully I won't sell it before I use it). If you make it to Chicago you might want to take some extra time and drive 3 hours to Wisconsin and maybe I could hook you and Al up with some Wisconsin River Smallies. MB
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I had a similar problem on a rod of course. It never really came around for me on the rod so I tried it on a scrap blank and it came out beautifully. It was probably an issue with my application of finish, or was it that I may have upset the thread Gods at some point in time? Tonight before I try it again I may sacrifice a couple of spools of thread to appease the thread Gods and hopefully it wil
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Does any one else have this problem? I was about to head out to the river and go fishing. As I was looking over my rods I found that I have no custom rods to fish with. I ended up taking a old Berkly Series One, and a couple of factory St. Croix Rods with me to do some Smallie fishing. It seems every time I build a rod for my self someone want's one for a special (short notice) occasion, or likes
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Andy - I have a couple of plans for this already, I look forward to it's becoming available. I myself am used to working with square stock, it makes it much easier to make elipticals and checkers from square stock than round. I think that you have a winner with this product. Thanks Mark.
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If you want there is a article on butt wraps by BD Ehler on Mudholes rodbuilding 101 he's one of the masters at the craft. If you really want to see some outstanding stuff look into Billy Vivona's Book. They all have step by step instructions but it still takes a lot of practice to get any good at it. Doc Ski also a very good DVD on Weaves. I think that there is a tutorial on the same link at Mu
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Mark beautiful work on the rope wraps. I've never seen anything like that. I would imagine that you were cross eyed as well.
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Putter, keep an eye on Stan and try to keep him in line. Good luck and try not to bring to many blanks home with you.
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I have used both and think the Batson is built a little tighter, they seem to have a better fit and finish than the Fuji. With that said I prefer the Fuji when I build a rod with out a forend. The Fuji doesn't have the extra supports inside the front ferrel and make it easier for me to use my own insert to center the grip and finish the end of it. They both have a place and I don't think you coul
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Putter that was a very informative and a good link. The pool cue guys seem to have the finishes down pat. I have used the CA approch to fill pores and level out wood and it works great, the only problem I have is that the dust irritates my eyes so I try to use it sparingly. I think the CA would be the most waterproof and durable of the bunch, but Tru-Oil is the most user frendly. You really won't
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Joe I never thought about putting the insert into the foam before you insert it. When you do it that way you also give it an extra ring (the handle material) of reinforcement. We use a similar insert in our repair shop and they are very strong and never give much problem. Good thinking now if we could get the reel manufacturers to come up with a standardized (and pre drilled) seat we would have i
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DR that's to bad about the grips they looked great and to have something like that happen to it after one day is a shame. Thanks for the heads up though Mark.
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I'm in the same boat as you Billy. It takes me two on the guides three on the wraps. It may be just me though so I'm curious if any one is able to get it in 1 on the guides and 2 on the wraps. MB
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I'm with Michael I enjoy looking at the pictures and they truly inspire you to do better in your own work.
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The work is outstanding and is beautiful, I enjoy looking at the quality work.
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I like to use 17mm skeleton seats and when I'm done turning they are ,780" on the main body. You can do it with a 7/8" blank but it is tight and like Walt said to get that you have to have every thing go your way when you drill it. When I turn wood seats I usually start with a 2" turning blank from woodcraft and trim it down to 1.25" and turn from there. I usually take what's
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Jimi just e/mailed me so the service is pretty good. I clicked on the link on there web site so I have no idea where the e/mail went.
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