CRTA Patterns 14 and 16 in the same wrap.
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Maroon and medium grey with silver HT metallic trim
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Longhorn weave for a friend.
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Black/Orange classic twist under Copper metallic and Black
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Your options include a plate seat, coasters (kinda like hose clamps), tape, or Mudhole has adjustable reel seats for larger diameter blanks. Plate seats are attached with thread...or some use tape so that they can be moved as necessary to fit the conditions.
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I only mark the 0 and 180 degree axes. Let the other axes fall where they may and adjust accordingly during the packing process.
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The higher the hardness value, the more brittle the substance. Sapphire (aka corundum, of which ruby is the other color variety) is a 9 on the hardness scale...10 being diamonds. Not sure about their availability as ring material, considering the potential cost I don't I need to know anyway....I'll just stick with ceramics.
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Check out salmon/steelhead blanks....I have several of these waiting to be built for the same purpose you mentioned.
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Merrick lists retail suppliers....Summer Moon comes to mind.
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The stuff you're looking for is 3M Safety-Walk tape. West Marine lists it in their catalog, but, when I looked at some in the local store it wasn't the coarse texture. I'm still looking for a supplier too...I think Loomis uses this stuff on their factory surf rods....also comes in a grey color.
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I've put additional coats on in as little as 4 or 5 hours.
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I have several hundred hours on mine, still works fine.
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I can only give experience and advise with No. 3...try calling Dr. Jack Daniels.
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I use one of the Flex Coat lathes. Most rods I build utilize Fuji rubber butt caps (e.g. BRC19). These have a small hole in the end ...all I do place a drill bit into the drill in the opposite direction and then slide the exposed solid end of the bit into the end of the butt cap. Works great.
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A HotShot rod might also be comparable....Loomis HS9000 or similar comes to mind...
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It's a 6- or 8-axis split diamond wrapped +1 to one side (if that makes sense). The side with the solid color is the part of the split diamond wrapped +1. Shade the other half of the diamond (wrapped 1 thread each pass) from one color to another until the pattern closes. I used to have an e-mail message that I put together some time ago but can't find it right now.....I'll look around more this e
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Having fished along the Texas coast my entire life, a good double-duty rod would be poppin' rod, something along the lines of a P902 (7.5-ft, Med-Lt) or a P904 (7.5-ft, med). Most blank manufactures make something close to these models. An alternative would be a HotShot blank used for salmon fishing. Slightly more backbone yet a fast or extra fast tip.
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I would think size A would be fine, but, REC Components (link to left) advertises Gudebrod 00 regular nylon in a limited number of colors if you want to try something different. Other sponsors may carry it also.
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Remember too that the regular nylon will become darker when epoxy is applied. I would suggest using light or medium shades if you want more contrast.
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First, either paint the blank white or underwrap with white NCP. Wrap diamonds using regular nylon thread...this will become semitransparent after epoxy is applied. Close the wrap between the diamonds with regular white nylon (other light colors work too, white is the most common). Use single threads of white and black NCP over the closed wrap to add accent trim.
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I tie albright's too. Decided I'll try single foots, probably LSG's in size 10 although I may order some of the LBSGs too. I'm clumsy so there's always a chance of bloodshed (for me and the rod) when I'm at the jetties.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Durable enough for what? Fishing? Or beating and > banging the rod around? > > Be careful on your guide sizing when building surf > rods. You need a ring large enough to easily pass > any shock leader knot you may have there. If > you're not using one then 10's are likely large
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Has anyone used single foot fly guides on surf rods? Finally getting around to building an 11'6" Breakaway for throwing plugs and spoons on the jetties and in the surf. Will size 10 Fuji SG (or LSG) fly guides be durable enough or should I stick with double foots? Fuji also has what looks to be a beefed-up bridge guide....they call it a single foot boat rod guide (LBSG)...would these be bett
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The studs are already installed on the hub kit I have...as are the bearings and seals which are prelubricated. Although I do carry spare grease to add just in case. A new hub kit with bearings, seals, racing, studs, prelubed should be about $40...galvanized slightly more. Be sure to check the spindle size (straight vs. tapered) to make sure you get the correct bearings.
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I actually carry a bag in the back of my truck with a spare hub kit (prelubed) and all the tools necessary to replace one in an emergency, so far it's saved at least one fishing trip when a bearing went out half way to Louisiana. You can buy prelubed hub kits at severals places (Academy, Cabelas, etc...).
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Bill, Do you use the Turbo-Lube's? I've thought about switching out the hubs on my tandem axel Magnum trailer but have balked thus far since I don't know anyone that's used them, especially in the salt. Bret
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As far as bearings, I have mine inspected and/or replaced each year at a local brake shop. Have used Bearing Buddies on the hubs without any problems. These allow easy addition of bearing grease prior to each trip. I have learned that the only thing that requires more maintenance than a boat is the trailer....good luck.....Bret
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