I looked at some Shimano Expride and NRX rods at a local store the other day. Like Kendall, I have read a lot of good press about the Expride and NRX and wanted to see what all the fuss was about. Mostly, when looking at commercial rods, I am interested in the blank itself. Does it have the action, power, and feel I value for a particular purpose. I have been impressed with some off the rack
Forum: rodboard

David! I will share what I find out about the #10 fluoro line test. I suspect it will work fine with the 16H group, but even better with the 20H group! I want to build my next spin rod with the 20H. I may have an excellent candidate in a re-build of the St. Croix 4C68MXF I mentioned above. Man, that is a dandy rod recommended to me by Bob McKamey a couple or three decades ago! And speaking
Forum: rodboard

Here is ONE layout that will get you started, Ed: Starting Point Placements of the 3+1 Specification for the 20H Guide Group with Vanford 2500 reel: 20H: 19 to 19 3/4 inches from spool axel tip at mid stroke. (For some reason, I have these two measurements written down in two different places for the 20H butt guide. Try them both.) 10H: 8 3/4 inches from front of guide foot of the 20H. 7M
Forum: rodboard

About a month ago, I completed a spinning build using the K-R Concept, 3+1 guide specification, for NFC's SJ 703 X-Ray (C602) blank. I have fished it extensively since then, and wanted to share my experiences and thought process building and fishing this guide specification with this rod. Seems to me, not much has been written about the 3+1 specification, especially with the 16H guide group, and
Forum: rodboard

Give Mud Hole a call. They used to carry logos for the major universities - these were sized to fit on a blank. I purchased some a couple years ago. Their new catalogue does not show them specifically; I don't know if they still carry them or not. Worth a check - they have very good customer service, IME.
Forum: rodboard

Tolo - I surface prep all parts that will be epoxied together, for almost all material types: graphite, aluminum, and plastic. I prep wood also if it has a hard and smooth coating (varnish or high polish). If it has a shine to it, I "de-gloss" it with Scotch Brite. Some metals may not show much change because they are very hard, but I prep them anyway. (I might resort to a 600-8
Forum: rodboard

Dan, Not answering for David, however, in my experience the Soft Touch finish on NFC grips is amazing - smooth and grippy like fine cork. Not slippery at all, wet or dry.
Forum: rodboard

Tolo, I made an inexpensive tool to prep the inside surface of a tube: I bought a small length of solid aluminum rod from a hardware store. Then, I took a hack saw and cut a slit in the end of the rod, down its length, about 0.75 inches long. Next, cut a strip of Scotch Brite to fit the slit (about an inch wide and 2-inches long) and slide it into the "forks" of the rod. Scrub and
Forum: rodboard

Chris, Seems like you are bumping up pretty close to the KRC 4-guide specification: 20H - 10H - 7M - 6L I have been playing around with this very guide train lately. A starting-point layout I found that is pretty good looks like this: 20H: 19.5 to 19.75 inches from spool face. 10H: 8.75 to 9 1/8 inches from 20H. 7M: 6.25 to 6 5/8 inches from 10H. 6L: 5 to 51/8 inches from 7M KB be
Forum: rodboard

David, I envy the fact you can go handle blanks at the NFC factory!? Ahhhhh, such a dream situation. Do they have much foot-traffic there from local customers? Glad you found the blank you like best for your purposes. You will soon have your own experiences to consider when choosing your next build. I have been playing around with both the 16-H and 20-H guide groups (4-guide specificatio
Forum: rodboard

Read this article from the Library for some great info.
Forum: rodboard

Kendall, How much do a pair of mosquito wings weigh? (My grandma said that if a butterfly lands on your fishing rod, you may get a new dress soon! Maybe she could feel it land?! Lol.) I get your point. If they are in the ballpark, I was thinking how ornery I could be with my fishing buddies showing them a cutting-edge rod and proudly boasting, "The only metal on this rod is in my knee!
Forum: rodboard

Tolo, I enjoy your questions and curiosity - two aspects of rod-building that are under valued. An open and thoughtful mind is a treasure. There is documented history about the evolution of guide trains out there for you to research and learn. In my own journey, I have seen change from the Cone of Flight (COF), to the NGC, to the KR Concept (KRC). All related. All different. All applicable
Forum: rodboard

These look nice to me, Aleks! I came to the conclusion that if they are lighter than any metal frame guides, that puts them in a 'definitely interested' category. I also thought about a KR Concept using these for the Reduction train - and regular KB's and KT's for Belly and Tip Section guides. Hybrid guide train.
Forum: rodboard

Nice topic! I, too, want to hear what others have to say!
Forum: rodboard

I was in a discussion with another forum member about USA Made carbon tubing for rod extensions and over sleeves. I have not done any business with them yet, but if they have carbon tubes for extending blanks, I'm interested!
Forum: rodboard

I want a rod that is 4X less likely to catch a tree limb behind me...or a tuft of tall grass....or guarantee I won't drop a cast or throw tailing loops.... Even at 4X less likely, the only thing I can guarantee is that stuff happens.
Forum: rodboard

Just throwing this out there because I haven't done it myself.... What if you used some Helmsman Spar Urethane varnish in Matte finish for your thread wraps?
Forum: rodboard

Sweet! Almost any rod can be up-graded with a new set of guides properly sized and placed. It can be an amazing transformation sometimes.
Forum: rodboard

I get the confusion over the terminology. Have any of you read the article, "Demystifying The K-Series Guide" on the Angler's Resource site? This article was helpful to me in understanding the history and design considerations for the K-Series guides. It also lays some blame on Fuji for how it muddied the water with its terms and rush to production. (I don't know if Jim Ising wrote
Forum: rodboard

David, I am following along closely to this topic because I have a similar build that I am considering the KRC + high belly guide layout (3+1). I use braid to leader knots at times and wondered if the 3+1 might help that transition and rod performance. The rod is the NFC X-Ray 703. Since this will be a rig on the lighter side of the line/lure continuum, I'll use 4/15 Power Pro braid to #10
Forum: rodboard

Johan, You are very much on track with your thinking if you have done some studying on the KR Concept and NGC. These principles and designs are based around line management, reduced weight, and casting efficiency. The basic principles will work with any brand of guide you want to use - however, some brands work better than others for my favorite, Fuji's KR Concept.. One person I highly respect
Forum: rodboard

Fred, If it were me, I would leave the guide foot flare as long as it did not stick out too wide from the blank. The wider foot will provide some torsional stability, especially on the heavier/wider section of the blank. If the flares stick out too wide on the tip section, I would carefully file them narrower - take off only what is needed.. Round off sharp edges with fine grit sand paper (
Forum: rodboard

If you have a threaded tube long enough, you can use, for example, a Fuji HPS or KDPS hood. Then use cork or CF hood-sleeves to make a grip that will screw down from Both ends. Your hand will not touch any threads. That's the way I read it.
Forum: rodboard

Thanks, VooDoo and Spencer!
Forum: rodboard

I am installing an 18mm reel seat and a 20mm reel seat. I want to have a winding check cap over the end of the seats that will allow the hood nut to unscrew over the threads. Any leads as to some checks or caps that have a diameter that would work for these seats? (I have looked at many checks by several makers that list the I.D. to fit the blank, however, the O.D. is often not listed.) I wou
Forum: rodboard

The orientation of the reel to the rod and guides often changes when I am fishing. Things are rarely lined up on a 180-degree vertical plane at all times. Skipping under a dock or tree limb changes my casting angle. Helicopter casts vs roll casts vs pitchin' casts vs bow and arrow casts vs short or long back casts.... Casting over or around a boat mate, rod rack, running light, motor or powe
Forum: rodboard

For crankbaits, I like the NFC APFG744 and 745 (glass) rods. In my experience, the 744 throws the 1.0 to 1.5 square bills (lighter side) better. DT 6's to DT 8's go great with the 745. Really very serviceable all-rounders as I have used a variety of techniques with these rods testing them out on the water. This is a rather unique series of rods, IMO, because they have an AA of 80 and IP's of 4
Forum: rodboard

samuel, I found a bit more good info/discussion about surf builds.. Send me an email and I'll send it to you (click my name and you can see my email address). It may help you - or at least get you thinking about things. I know when trying something new or for the first time, I appreciated all the help I could get, and I got a lot of help here.
Forum: rodboard

Carlos, I think it would help to choose an easily identifiable starting point for the butt guide (first guide from the reel) when discussing measurements to help the surf rod pros give you some distances to consider and try as a starting point. Example, a common set point for measurement of the butt guide placement for a casting rod is from the reel face (or spool guide). A spinning rod butt g
Forum: rodboard