Dick, where do you buy your bottom cap and screw lid? I could never find a place to get them. Thanks, Todd
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I also looked into making my own aluminum rod tubes. I spent a lot of time looking. I found the tubing at a metal mart type store in my state but it was ridiculous pricing! I never did find the tube ends. I buy my aluminum tubes from a guy in Colorado. They would be simple to make quality tubes if you could get access to supplies. I'm interested to see what you find. Good luck.
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Zach, NFC has their spin blanks now...65% off. The FW702-2 is reg. $168 but on sale $58. Only problem is they get you pretty good on shipping.
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Sorry Ernie, I just looked up the handle kit you were talking about. I would still do it in sections. Put the cork on fitting it good. As I said, I always like the bottom section dry to I have a base or some leverage to get things snug and fit perfectly. Then I would put the reel seat in. It looks like you it would be easy to epoxy the areas needed for a proper, good fit even with the cork in pla
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I don't think it to be a pain at all unless I am not understanding correctly. Ream the bottom cork to fit the area it will be glued to and glue it. Then work upward from there. Prepare the blank to fit the reel seat and at the same time prepare the top cork to fit the area it will be glued to. Then I epoxy the area of the reel seat and fix it to the blank and also the frond cork and epoxy it and
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Thanks Roger, I will check all of those issues. I haven't used it yet..just put a finished rod in and turned it to see what 200RPM's looks like.
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I believe that John. I've been using flex coat for 15+ years and never had a rod walk out. Have 3 of them now. But...just received the up to 200RPM motor with slip clutch and it wobbles. I have had the problem before on the others but was able to adjust the blank in or out and mostly fix the problem. I worked for half an hour just adjusting and couldn't get it fixed.
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Hey Zach, just looked at Lamiglas site and there is a GP662L clearance blank for $76. Was $126. 2-8lb. If you're looking for a short light spin blank. Just an FYI. Good luck!
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I always try to follow the blank manufacturers suggestions. I would hope they know best about the blanks they are building and where the guides will be most effective.
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I have used both NFC and Lamiglas light blanks and like both of them a lot. Lamiglas usually has some clearance light g1000 pro and NFC has flash sales at 50% when you Catch them. I have built 4 on Lamiglas and 3 NFC. Had one Lamiglas that was a little crooked in a section but other than that...no problems.
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Thanks Roger! All of my motors are flex coat. My first motor was the 18rpm with out a clutch. Then I purchased an 18rpm with a clutch. I just bought the variable speed up to 200rpm's with a clutch. I haven't used it yet but did set a rod in it to see how it turned. it was wobbly. That's why I was asking about the wire chuck. Thanks!
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Michael, I'm pretty sure most people will disagree with me or want my head for this but...a month ago, the tool I use that fits in my rubber chuck and then inside the female section of rod I was drying some how came loose and stopped turning. The finish sagged with a big belly and dried. I thought of removing every guide and starting over. Instead I used a new razor blade and carefully shaved the
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Can I change my rubber chuck to the wire chuck? I get a wobble problem and have still done ok but it is annoying. Does the flex coat motors accept the wire chuck? Thanks
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Hey Ken...I almost always have an opinion on things and usually not afraid to share it. That being said and you asking how others like the logo...I am in agreement with Russell. I wouldn't want it on my stuff but....I know many, many others that would love the logo. I feel you did a great job and are talented.It's just my cup of tea or coffee. It probably has something to do with age and the pers
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Mark...that's an easy question to answer....FORD! My own comment made me think. I've only been a commenter on one site so I am not positive how others work but would put money that they are all the same. Most likely there are builders on here from different parts of the world. We find something that works well for us so we are "pro" that method or product when there are many other metho
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Hi John. If you got 40 yrs out of your motor...good for you. I will be interested to hear what others have to say about your post. I have 3 flex coat motors all with the rubber "chuck" I think you're talking about in your post. They have been good for the most part. Just a couple things I've noticed over the years is that sometimes there is a wobble in the blank when turning. After adju
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Thanks Jim, That is good info to try.
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Thanks Jim. I don't know any of that material. A question I thought of while reading was...If the entire foot and especially the area scuffed is properly covered with finish, isn't the area then sealed and shouldn't be exposed to moisture? I have built rods that are now 15 years old and have been fished a lot and I don't see rust or discoloration any where. I am a very critical person when it com
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I use a light file on all of my guides. A lot of the guides I have used say they are prepped but in my opinion, not very well. I like a very smooth transition from the blank up onto the foot. I despise seeing that little area of the tip of the foot showing after the wrap is on. My wraps are very tight or I redo them. I just went down and looked at a bunch of guides I have. They all are "pre
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Thanks Kent! I appreciate you taking the time to explain. I love learning....especially when I learn from people have have been there and done it. Thanks!
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Sorry Kent...I have a question for you. I was always a Shimano guy but the last two years have swayed and now really like Pflueger spin reels. You being a certified tech on some brands, how do you feel about Pflueger? I use their middle reels. My favorite is the Summit XT. What are your feelings? Thanks.
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Kent, that makes me smile. I have a few years on you but I love the older, more simple times of life. I started fishing in the early 60's. Back then if you had a Mitchell 300 and a Garcia rod you were set. Bird hunting..you were in with a Remington 870. I love and miss those days. Good for you to hang on to good memories. If you like the bend of the old rods (most likely glass), why not build on
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I have built 3 spin rods using LZR guides. I really liked them. they are light and seem strong and have zirconia inserts. They are nice looking guides. I had no problems or issues with them. I would use them again for sure.
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The yellow stuff.....!!!!! use the yellow stuffffff!!!!! I put that s@&t on everything! Use the yellow tip top glue stick.
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Hi Dave, I 100% agree with Lance. I also cut small slithers of tip top glue. I have said on here many times...there is a difference between the white stick of glue and the yellow tip top stick. Use the yellow. Load the tube with the slithers, heat the tube with a lighter...not too close...just close enough to get the glue to settle into the tube. When the glue starts to bubble, insert your tip to
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I have built on 3 NFC blanks and have really liked all of them. 2 FW702's and then an Iconoglas 7' 6" #4. I happen to see them 50% off so took a chance and they have been great.
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I'm with David. I use Fuji or Alps. Both are nice...Alps a little more pricey but nice. For both the Fuji and alps you can buy different color graphite inserts and the Alps has different color hoods. Makes the spin rod stand out just a little but still durable.
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Kudos to you Phil! Good comment. Way too much info is a bunch of marketing @#$%&. As some of you said...the bottom line or the top interest in, how much profit will be made.
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Thanks Dan! I have fished all of my life but only been building rods for 10-15 years. Things have changed over time. One of those being one piece rods "because they are much more sensitive" as people say. I tried a couple one piece rods and could not tell a difference. Only difference I noticed was that the one piece rods were more difficult to transport and more easy to break by rollin
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Maybe I'm just ignorant or maybe an idiot...possibly both but I don't get all of the "lighter" argument. How much difference is a "lighter" tip going to make while fishing through the ice? I am in Utah so don't fish small perch or other smaller fish. Even with the wind blowing I can see when a fish is messing with me and my bait. Also, I have said on here a few times about the
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