David PM me.
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Need to change my reel on it. The Conquest 50 just doesn't fit the rod. Felt a little mechanical. Think if I put the Met on it I will be able to feel more. Less Gear noise in the blank. We will see. Almost as sensitive as the IM DS rod I built running the Met. It's a Mag Light-XF versus a MH-F. That kinda tells you how it compares as far as the sensitivity level. Guess I have something to try for
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Can't agree more tested my 736 out yesterday and very impressed. Caught a 1.5 lb bucketmouth. The fish had a serious case of lockjaw yesterday.
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I was thinking I probably won't turn much. Maybe a tenon here or there and the seat edge. Can't do that with a hand wrapper. You can swap motors out easy. Just as long as RPM and the shaft are the same. Like to do some boring as well easier to do that on a lathe than a drill. Better concentricity.
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I guess my next question is for those that run a Renezetti what do you use to turn grips? How are you set up?
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Was thinking about picking up a Renzetti Rod Lathe but was wondering if the ALPS tool rest and tail stock would work on them.
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There is a review on tackle tour of that rod look it up.
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I'm finishing one just like that David but spiral wrapped with an RV stripper. Fished me 662 IM this weekend and its awesome. Have a few more to get done here quick. I ordered 10/8 just got my last blank 3/26. I ordered a bunch more this week just so that maybe when the ice starts coming in I will have blanks in hand.
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How do you get the epoxy even on decals? Having trouble with that. Sorry if I'm hijacking.
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What I've noticed is after I mix is if you let it sit for 5 mins before applying you get rid of 90% of the bubbles.
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If your afraid of going too far up on the blank tape it so you don't ruin the finish.
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Take some fine Emory cloth to to blank won't take much. May even be able to use a scotch bright pad. If your really worried about the blank take it wrap a tool and polish the inside of tip top. I had to do this on a blank recently. 4 or 5 rounds and she fit like a glove.
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Thanks Tom
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What's the down and dirty on this stuff? What's the best out there? Using Pro-Kote but is there something better. Especially for threads as Pro Kote does get a lot of bubbles in it. Just takes a little extra time is all. Anything that is a quick cure and not 8 hours?
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Sorry if I'm not allowed to do this. I would check out grizzly.com they have all kinds of tooling for wood and metal lathes. From furniture makers to gunsmithing.
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Norm, From what I've seen so far I would agree with that statement. I like them better than EVA. Can't wait to test my CF grips out this year. Really like them so far on my builds as far as feel. I've always been a fan of cork. But proof is on the water and I'm a minimalist. A rod is a tool not an art piece.
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I have a couple rods with them but I'm running exposed reel seats as well. They do help hold on to a rod when it's covered in fish slime after a good day of catching. I do like them better than EVA but I do like my cork and am working on a couple with CF so the jury is out.
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20" Tom with a bumper at 6" from the stripper.
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I played with it some more got rid of a couple guides. Changed placement of a couple and changed angles. 0-90-180 with the 90 just being a bumper # 5. Slight bit of tenting between guides now but the distance between line and rod stays very even. On the bumper it doesn't even touch the guide when the line is tight but under load it does touch the ring. So now I can see how you can go 0-180. I jus
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How many guides do you normally go with on a 7ft rod? I think I have too many on it now which is an easy fix. I have a total of 10 on it. I need to get it out and do some test casting with it before I wrap it.
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Static tested my first spiral wrap rod last night. Was planning on going a simple 0-90-180 but the micro guides I'm using will not allow me to do so, line touching the rod. So I ended up going a 0-60-120-180. Is this a common occurrence with this? Do you guys have a preference for rolling right or left? If so why?
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Tom so what your saying is it's not important?
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Darwin Wong Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jacob Nebeker Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > > I have gotten 3 different guide sets I'm gonna > > test. Got some of those T2. I could put them on > my > > reloading scale and give some comparisons if > you > > want me too. >
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Look at the MB663-1 or 662-1 Might fill your needs. They are definitely lighter than a 736 and you don't have to cut.
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David, The one I have is going on a spinning reel. I'm thinking out in the future a lot! Mocked it up tonight CF grips and a TVS seat hidden cover lock ring with the Fuji CF sleeve and accents. It looks pretty snazzy. Once I get my order from MH in I can epoxy 3-4 rods together then start setting guides and that fun stuff. Then get those built. I'm thinking that rod will be awesome for DS Ned
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Thanks for the input guys. I'm a LMB and SMB fisherman. Love to hook a good smallie on a float tube nothing better. Other than when a smallie takes a run and starts spinning you around like a top. 2.5-3 lber circles you until your dizzy on 4-6lb test. Been reading a bunch about acid wrapping will be experimenting on this. I just think for the money I can produce a rod in the $500-600 class for a
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I just started building rods. Finished my second one tonight. My first 2 were on MHX blanks got a couple Phenix to wrap and a couple NFC X-Rays. Price was too good to not try them. I got a few questions. Long time lurker. First was a casting micro on a MHX MB843. I have fished it a little bit and it's definitely a better rod then the Fenwicks I've bought in the past. Got a couple mid-level ro
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Well you could glue it together minus the cap drill it to size then take it and glue the cap on. That is how the carbon fiber fighting butts come.
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