<p>this is how I placed the guides on my 1st build, an Acid Wrap grouper rod.</p>
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<p>This is the balance point on my 1st built rod.</p>
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<p>This is my 1st build. It is a acid wrap boat rod.</p>
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<p>Black Hole Cape Cod Special 450g Factory Build</p>
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<p>I am looking for a winding check with a flat top.</p>
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Just as title says, how do you hold these little Mico, single foot guides in place to wrap? They are too small for tape, to unstable for hairbands. I am at wits end trying to wrap these little suckers. Thanks in advance.
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I would think you could order the Wax applicator pads (like what you use to wax a vehicle) with from @#$%& for under $1 a piece. Get out the razor blade, and cut into the size you want. I believe this is the same type density foam as the cosmetic ones are. Now that I think about it, you can probably order the cosmetic applicator pads from @#$%& just as well.
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I have an older rod, dating back to the late 80's that was my dads. I am wanting to rebuild it for him, and this sounds just like the right idea to bring it back to life. should I wet sand the blank before applying? If I was to sand, what grit should I use? maybe a 300, or are we talking about a grit like a 4000? when you say wipe it on, you saying like soak a rag, and just rub it until it
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I would think you could put this tuff called "Glow Dust" into the finish epoxy, and highlight it to any color you want, and that stuff glows really well. I mix it in with white paint, when I make my vertical jigs. They GLOW, glow. You can ge tit in different colors, such a red, blue, green, yellow, purple, pinks, etc.
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Bill Sidney Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > smallest can I found is a pint , can was about > $13,00 spray cans are cheaper less rubber , BUT > how much will you use before it drys up use spray > can an paint the small part of reel seat with a > small brush , [ just an idea ] never worked with > it good luck > spray can is
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What would you use the Klass Kote (Crystal Coat) for? Is this the really thin coating that goes over entire blank?
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Paul, > To insure that the finish is fresh for each guide > - freeze the appropriate amount on a aluminum foil > "tray" for each guide. Use a fresh tray for each > guide and you can work as slow as you wish. It > takes about 10-20 seconds for a tray just out of > the freezer to
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Paul Wray Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Should I apply finisher for each layer? How long should I wait for it to dry between layers? Ffor example, I did a base wrap, then plan to place guide feet on, and then triple wrap the guide feet. Should I do the following? Step 1 - Wrap base layer Step 2 - Apply thin layer of finisher Step 3 - Place guide
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Should I apply finisher for each layer?
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When you need to double or triple wrap a guide foot, Do you just reverse direction when you get to the end of wrap, or finish off the wrap, cut, then start a new wrap?
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Mel Shimizu Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ok, I understand now what you are saying and my > answer is that I do not use any set formula such > as equal spacing as each blank is different. You > have to put your guides on and do your stress test > to try to get a good straight line path and equal > distribution of load on each guide.
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Thanks Mel. I was asking do you use 60 degree offsets, such as eyes are at 0, 60, 120, and 180 degrees, or should I use 45 degree offsets, such that the eyes are at 0, 45, 90, 135, 180. I have a graphite seat already. Good recommendation though. What is your eye spacing on this rod?
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I've used a Drexel and then started using my angle grinder, with a 4.5 "cut off wheel. Works fine, just have that wheel a humming. This is for rod blanks. For Eva foam handles, I use a 12" chop saw. It does a really nice job, imo
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A MS Paint photo that better illustrates what I am looking for can be found here.
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Yeah, I know what you mean. I have left it long, then trimmed so that about 3/8" is sticking over after it is shrunk, then, I heat it again , and press it down, and get it tucked correctly, then I press down on the end of the foreground onto a cool granite counter, and move spots ever few seconds for about 2 minutes, the granite is cool from the AC, and absorbe the heat, and then the shrink
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Hey Matthew, thanks for the reply, but I don't see anything there. Where you trying to post a picture or Web link maybe?
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All, I am building my first 2 rods ever. 1st is a CRB 50-100lb class rod and a black hole cape cod special 450g rod. I have been practicing on the CRB and then doing the Black Hole blank. I am now at the point of guide placement, which I want to be acid wrapped. I don't have a clue how to find the correct guide placement. Any help would be appreciated. Also of note, the CRB is a moderate fast
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I am building my first rod ever, and have decided that I really like the Eva grips with heat shrink "X" pattern over them. I have the grips sanded down and Heat Shrinked so that the gimble and reel seat line up flawlessly. The problem I am having is on the front grip, where the end of the grip is and the first guide, how do you hide the heat shrink? To explain more, I am sanding the top
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Are you talking about plastic dip? Or flex seal, something like that? I think I am about to try the plastic dip, will post pictures and results when I'm finished.
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you can buy 10 ft gutter sections at lowes for under $8.00. Just put end caps on each end, and silicone them in place. Make a little wedge to keep it from rolling out of a 2x4 stud length ($3.00). So for around $11.00, you would be good to go. fill with water, leave in garage on warm day, until temp gets right, then dip away. I actually work with a guy, who has a Hydrographics business as a si
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I have some Shimano Trevala rods, and the reel seat is a Fuji PSSLD, but on the Shimano rods, the reel seat has a rubberized coating. I tried to order the same reel seat from mudhole, and bought the deluxe model. However, the deluxe model, does not have this rubberized coating. Is this something that is unique and exclusive to Shimano rods? Is there a way to order these reel seats with th
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Don @ American Tackle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > They ARE NOT the same blanks re-labeled... > > I cannot speak for the CRB blanks but I can tell > you the ATX VJ blanks are among the best on the > market. They are widely used all over the world by > custom builders and rod manufacturers alike. > > Give them a try, you will l
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Thanks Scott. Just FYI, but I have several Shimano Trevalla's with the Fuji Graphite reel seats. All of them have reel clamps, and I made a special tool to tighten the snot outta them also. I took a wood chisel, that was the same width as the screws used on reel clamp, I then took a grinder and made the chisel into a screw driver, then hollowed out the center. This makes those screws go on real t
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I was looking at the Vertical Jigging Blanks from CRB and American Tackle. Oddly enough, they have the exact same specs. I was wondering, if they are made by the same manufactor and just relabeled? My family owns grocery stores, and I have seen many distributors do this, re-brand an item, and sell it as their own version. But physically, they are the same, made in the same place, just a different
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Tom Wewerka Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > X3 on Norm's comments. There is so little > difference in cost that going to the better > Nanolite is a no brainier. You won't be > disappointed with the better nanolite guides > > Tom Can you explain why the nanolite are better than the duralite? I am genuinely curious. Will one withstan
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