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Current Page: 3 of 12
Results 61 - 90 of 336
6 years ago
Chris Herrera
That's hilarious! 5 responses, and no answer to the questions he asked. Alex, unfortunately I don't own an AERO seat, otherwise I would weigh it for you. Good luck in your search for info. Chris
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Corky, One additional thing you may consider, is placing a large piece of white cardboard or foam board behind your rod and building station. I do this when I build rods and tie flies. The contrast between my work and the white backdrop helps me see things easier, plus I think there is some reflected light helping, too. Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
6 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Robert, Here is great way to remove a tip top, especially when you don't know how much heat it will take: I use the Flex Coat hot glue, myself. I regularly fish in weather up to 105°, and have not had a failure yet... Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Bill, I have noticed that on new line. I only use old, used line to make my loops with. And even then I wash it with alcohol and then soap and water. Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Mark, As always, to each their own, but I've been using Gudebrod thread for at least 30 years, and I like it. Maybe because I am used to it. I don't seem to have any issues. Fortunately, I bought enough to last me several more years! But when I run out, it's either time to stop building rods, or try some of the other threads I have. We'll see how fishing is... Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Mark, When this happens occasionally to me, I just take my scalpel and carefully trim off the high rim of the volcano, and apply another coat or two of finish. I myself never use sandpaper, due to the chance of imbedding grit into the remaining finish. Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Steve, You need to register with the photo page to log in. You can use the same username and password as the forum. Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Bob, You will receive plenty of answers here, but your best bet for knowing what you need in addition to the kit, is to call Mudhole and speak with them. They would be happy to talk you through what you will need to order. And I believe their catalogue may even have some building instructions. That being said, I recommend you order a box of number 11 scalpel blades with a handle. The
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Brian , Out of curiosity, do you apply with a brush or spatula? And what temps have you been applying at? Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Wes, Plenty of opinions here. I only use the hot melt tip top glue. I usually start by prepping the rod tip by knocking the shine off, with a scuff pad, before installing the tip. I will take the glue stick and trim small, toothpick sized pieces off of it. I then stuff a few of these into the tip top tube, heat it until the glue bubbles up, and then I slip it onto the rod and position
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
I used to use U40 corkseal, but now use U40 perma gloss. It is multi-use. I like the way it looks, and holds up well. Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Norman, I love pesto, but you never want to mix it in aluminum if it has lemon in it. Gives it a metallic taste..... : ) Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
David, I have not done what you want to do, but I did just want to remind you that perma gloss is very hot, in a sense that it can dissolve many types of ink or paint it is put on. Make sure you allow your ink to dry thoroughly before trying to coat it. And I would do several test runs, on scraps, first. Let us know what you do! Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
David, No matter what kind of glue or epoxy you put on it, it will still be a weak spot. I believe the only thing you could do to make it strong, is put a fiberglass sleeve over it. A very light weight piece of fiberglass rod blank, tapered and epoxied in place would be perfect. Then wrap over it, put a coat of finish on, wrap the guide on it, and put another coat of finish. The repair a
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Steve, A couple of things that would cause different problems: My first thought: Check for crystals in your resin. This includes the bottle or syringe. If they are just starting to form, you may not see them easily. Have you switched to a new thread? Are you using razor blades that may have oil on them? Not all solvents are created equal, when it comes to oil or grease. Are you
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Sam, I made a very nice cork lathe out of wood. I made a cradle to support an upside down drill, and on the other end I put a wooden upright that has two sealed ball bearing sets pressed into recessed holes: 1/4" I.d. and one with 3/8" I.d. This way I can use two different sized mandrels. I'm not at my shop, otherwise I would post a picture. I have turned wood on this lath
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Bert, If you move it to the down side of the rod (and a little left if you like), and as close to the reel as you can, you will eliminate the line slapping onto it. The other option is to do some creative bending. Better to move it. Let me know how it works out, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Bob, If you still have them, hold on to them. You can use the threaded part to extend the threads of another seat of the same size. Also, there was an article years ago about using the hoods and threads from two different feel seats, to make an all thread reel seat, capable of moving the reel position higher or lower on the rod, for better balance. Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Justin, Tite Bond III for me, too. Less of a chance of seeing the glue lines, and less of a chance of gluing the grip to the mandrel. Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Justin, Bend your grip to open the split up a little more, and put glue in and clamp it back together. Looks like you used burl of some kind. Glue it back together and you won't even see the crack, unless you use some crazy colored glue... Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Justin, Regarding using the pilot bits: I use the largest bit, that is still smaller than the thinnest section of blank where the cork will be glued to. Then I finish with a tapered reamer, to make sure the grip fits the taper of the blank. This way you remove the most amount of cork, before using the reamers for the final fit. I hope that makes sense! I won't do a grip without u
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Here's a link: They look like unfinished reelseat barrels, missing the attached hoods. Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Bert, Is your hook keeper on the bottom side of the rod, or did you put it out to one side? Also, how far from the reel seat is your first guide, and what size is it? Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Randy, Try searching fade wrap. Also here is a video that discusses it. Not the best for viewing, though. Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Craig, I've never had an issue, and I've done it on a few heavily used rods. Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Robert, I don't know if this is still available, but I happened to see this video the other day: I have not used it. Looks like Mudhole has it: Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Ken, One more thing, due to the pitted nature of the cork, you may want to do a first coat of epoxy or CP to prevent air bubbles from disrupting your marbling as it dries. I did not do this the first time, and had to deal with a couple of bubbles. Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Ken, I've marbled cork before and it has turned out great. Contrary to what has already been stated, the epoxy adheres perfectly fine to the exterior of clean cork; ever miss a spot of epoxy on the cork when assembling your rod? Rod blanks don't absorb stain or paint, but we don't hesitate to put epoxy on them. The only issue you may have in marbling any type of pistol grip, is the irr
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Hi Ken, I use Jacquard Pearl Ex Powders for marbling. They are ready right out of the package, mix easy, look good, don't upset the epoxy, and are available in many craftstores. They have a more metallic appearance, which I like better than plain color. Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
7 years ago
Chris Herrera
Bob, You said you are going to cut the wrap off and redo it; how about just trimming the extra epoxy off, and recoating with a thin layer of fresh epoxy? That would save you a bunch of work, and no one would be able to tell there was ever a lump. I've done it many times. It works great, as long as you don't damage the threads when trimming the excess epoxy. Take care, Chris
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 3 of 12

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