I believe the can needs to be unlined, bare metal inside. I just keep my bottles of PG in the fridge. Chris
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Hi Ed, The other thing you can do is order both sizes. Take care, Chris
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Thanks for the nice comments. I did this grip and rod several years ago, and back then I always seemed to put one feather on crooked... Chris
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Thanks Bill. Chris
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Here is a picture of wrap epoxy over burl cork and birch bark. I like the way the epoxy makes the materials look. I also use PermaGloss on cork, wood and bark. Take care, Chris
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Hi Dave, As Norman said, flex them yourself to get an idea of power. Then, build them however you want: casting, spinning, short stout fly rods, meat lines, etc. Take care, Chris
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Levi, You might want to give CitriStrip a try, instead of sanding. Plenty of info in the search, with all dates clicked. Good luck, Chris
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Hi Rick, Tension the spool, and not the thread. I learned this same lesson 30 years ago! Take care, Chris
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Hi Daniel, At one point, Lamiglas made some McFarland blanks. I don't know if it was a regular run, or just some test blanks, but they were good quality. Not sure what modulas. Chris
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Robert, High build works great for marbling. I use ThreadMaster. Chris
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Hi Robert, I'm sure you'll get a few responses. I personally like to keep the number of finish coats I have to put on, down to a minimum. Since high build finishes are versatile, I don't use lite finishes. No reason to create extra work for myself, and each time you put a coat of finish on, you have the potential for new finish issues. Take care, Chris
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Hi Jon, Before you buy your feathers, you might want to ask whichever business if they offer CITES documentation for the various controlled species, in case you want to do any international travel with the rods. I once asked for the documents after a sale, and never received a response. Lesson learned. Take care, Chris
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Mark, Like Tom said, more time could solve your issue. You may also try increasing the temp of the room your rod is drying in. For your next marbling project, try giving Jacquard's Pearl-Ex dry pigments a try. They do not change the properties of the epoxy, and in my opinion look better than most paint pigments: they have a metallic sheen. Take care, Chris
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Hi Rick, I had the thread crossing about 6 inches of rod length, and I guess between the slight taper and the tension of the thread, I was not able to get the threads to stay parallel to my liking. A shorter distance probably won't be much of an issue. I think part of the problem, was that I was trying to hide the ends of the thread under short trim bands, and this wasn't enough to kee
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Hi Rick, I tried it, but I was not able to keep the threads perfectly straight, and it bugged me. If you are framing words on a label, you would have to line the threads up with them in some way...at least I would. Let us know what you do, and share pics. Take care, Chris
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Ralph is involved in every rod I build or repair. I will always appreciate his contributions to our craft, and I will never forget the advice he gave me. Rest in peace, Ralph. You are missed. Chris
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Hi Miki, I agree with Phil's statement, but if you really want to take the shine off of the male ferrule, just try some super fine scotchbrite type scuff pads. Take care, Chris
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Hi Brandon, Out of curiosity, how long ago did you put that epoxy on the rod? Take care, Chris
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Steve, I have found glossy grips to be very slick, if I have wool gloves on. Now when I fly fish in the winter, I use gloves with silicone on the palms. Test your final product with different gloves, if you plan on cold weather fishing. Take care, Chris
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Hi Larry, Craters and brush strokes will be filled by the epoxy, and you won't see them. Whole bubbles will still be visible. Take care, Chris
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Hi Ted, If you can take a look at the particles with a magnifier, it will go a long way towards solving your mystery. Sorry to state the obvious, but you're the only one we can get info from. First thing that comes to my mind, since the first coat didn't have this issue, is either something was changed or introduced in the immediate area, or your first coat is being damaged by your second co
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Marco, Betula bark rings are a bit heavier. You may want to bore out the grip and use a foam core. Take care, Chris
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Hi Robert, After the first coat of epoxy, I usually just trim the fuzzies off with my scalpel, and then recoat with epoxy. All cut marks disappear with the new coat. Take care, Chris
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Hi Robert, If you are concerned about the epoxy adhering to the CP, due to possibly contaminating the CP by touching it too much after you applied it, I would just put on another thin coat of CP, let it dry, and then epoxy. I hope that answers your question. I have put on as many as 6 coats of CP, when I do feather inlays, without issue. I also use Flex Coat. Take care, and let us know
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Hi Paul, Here is a place to start. For the size fish he is catching, a 6 or 7 weight would probably do. I'm sure others will chime in, as well. Take care, Chris
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Thanks, Norman. I appreciate your comment. Chris
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Tom, Here is a post I made in 2007. I used that bottle of PermaGloss until this last December: 11 years. It finally cured hard in December. Take care, Chris
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Robert, Not all furled leaders are created equally! I am fortunate to have a local fly shop that makes their own, and the quality is fantastic. I won't fly fish without one, now. Of course, I don't do much fly fishing, but when I do go, I usually fish for super spooky, over harassed fish, and I believe the furled leaders help with presentation greatly. If you decide to try them, get a co
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Roger, Steve said boatload not big boatload. That certainly changes the amount of spools he bought. I myself purchased a small boatload of Gudebrod thread several years ago, and was then given a medium sized canoe full as well. I enjoy using Gudebrod thread, and will continue to do so until I run out. In all my years of handcrafting custom rods, I've only run across one spool of Gude
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