Thanks Herb! Will send email. Cheers Adam
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To all the saltwater fly rod builders out there. What would be the choice of guide size and type for the Revo #10 ? Keeping in mind that I only want to use titanium and living in Australia so might be limited to some brands. Double foot strippers then singles? Please enlighten me :) I'm a complete newbie to building a fly rod. I've been saving this build for a rainy day....Now has n
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In terms of friction I notice a huge amount of difference under load. Jigging for large heavy fighting fish say 25kg plus peeling off line at a rate of knots and drag up around 15kg or more Torzite comes into its own. I'd image using a torzite guide as a stripper would be ideal for fighting fish.
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Hi guys, Does anyone have experience with using prokote high build and original together? Say Original for first coat and thread penertraition then high build as build coats? Or does anyone mix them together? I build heavy duty Topwater and Jigging rods (GT, Dogtooth tuna etc) Normally apply 4 coats of original. While this works a treat Im hoping to reduce wastage and time. Thinking I could
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Thanks everyone for their advice. Just so we're clear what I'm discussing does not reflect on Fuji's quality or using Torzite for other builds. I'm building topwater rods for the big dogs. Yellowtail Kingfish, GT, Dogtooth Tuna.. The hardest meanest fighting fish you can get on a lure. 100's of casts per session with heavy lures, heavy leader, Locked drag, shallow water and holding on for de
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Thanks Herb, I agree. I shouldn't be having problems. The big issue for me is I cant get a definite answer on whether Torzite is suitable for heavy spinning rods, casting heavy lures to heavy hitting fish. I want to trust my gear and my builds and to know my customers won't have a problem. Losing a trophy fish is the worst possible outcome. What I've gathered from speaking to people in
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herb canter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just one other point about Adams comment about the > ring design and shape. Torzite offers certain > sizes in an " F " designation which means > "Flanged" and an " R" designation which means > 'Recessed" i believe and the F versions are more > rounded in their
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Thanks Jim. Will contact you shortly. Cheers Adam
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Adam, > I am as surprised and bewildered as anyone that > you are experiencing difficulties/failures with > any Fuji component, in this case and especially > TKWT guides = they should be the crème de crème. > Even if the guides were exposed to unusually rough > treatment, they should hold up b
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Adam, > Have you been in touch with the Fuji people about > your experience?? > Herb Only the distributor here in Australia.
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herb canter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Well somethings not right , i have yet to hear a > single complaint from anybody about a Fuji > Titanium Torzite guide having issues . I would > have bet the house that a SIC ring would be more > crack prone than a ring made of Torzite but as > your situation has proved anything can happen. &g
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Adam, > Unusual for sure. > > Replace any of the cracked and broken guides and > move on. > > If they crack or break again, then replace them > with something different. > > No general field reports of customer problems with > these guides. > > Just one note
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Hi guys, Who on here has experience with heavy topwater spin rods and Torzite guides. Topwater rods for (GT,Tuna,Kingfish etc) I made a post a few months back about a loose Torzite ring. There was also a cracked tip which I found later. This time I have a cracked ring that completely fell out. This rod was made in October CTS Seamaster PE 4-6 and has been used for casting stickbaits up t
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Are you using to much heat? To much heat will cause the resin to move away from the high point. I use D thread over wraps on pretty much every build. I have found with the slower curing resin like Prokote and CTS Crystal Coat this will happen with to much flame.
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes, happy to replace it. Rare, indeed. Hi Jim, Im dealing with Frogleys Australia :) I agree very rare indeed. Just glad it was my rod and I didn't find out the hard way losing a stonker fish :0 Cheers Adam
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Try CTS CrystalCoat. Great working time and levels beautifully. Cure time is long around 24hrs till recoat going off my experience and workshop intervals but the finish is just amazing!
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To my disappointment and amazement! I have discovered a loose ring in a TORZITE T-KWTG 12. New rod only a few months old. Rod is a CTS Seamaster. PE 4-6 Stick bait. Funnily enough when I was building this rod (fortunately for my self) I noticed this guide didn't have the usual amount of glue around the ring and guide. One of those "she'll be right" moments Has anyone else had pr
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What kind of bug? If vinegar fly, offer vinegar > on the other side of the room. Leave a small > light (+ fly paper ) on on the other side of the > room. Leave nothing in your working area to > attract anything. I think your right. It looks like a fruit fly. Thats a great idea. I'll give it a
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Hi guys keen to hear what everyone does to stop those annoying tiny bugs that seem to find fresh epoxy during the night when the lights are off and you've gone to bed happy with laying down a perfect last coat.... This morning one bug in the stipper guide! Had to be the stripper.. Not only stuck but had a swim to! Might try one of those plug in insect killers.
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Applying epoxy is very similar to applying any clear finish or paint. If you've ever wondered how some boats have incredibly flat varnished timber cabin sides or how the topsides are perfectly flat and fare. The same principles and methods apply. Like varnish, you apply a thin coat first. With epoxy make sure the temps are optimum to get good flow and thread penetration. Its better to get
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The variable speed looks great but our dollar is terrible at the moment. 68c USD to our AUD $1 I'll be looking for cheaper options or just sticking to what i have until or if the dollar improves.
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Thanks guys! That made the decision easy lol Seem like a no brainer!
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Hi guys whos been using these and do you rate them? Cant get them in Australia but willing to pay the shipping and exchange rate if they are worth it. I like the idea of being able to stop the blank rotating to apply resin around the guide. One of the most annoying things to do when coating double footed guides. Cheers
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Ha logged on to share my experience with using CC for the first time. Thanks for starting it Phil. I to have experience the same curing times with both mixing by weight and volume. Room temp has been a consistent 23 C (73 F) for the last 4 nights. The time has been measured before and after work. Times of curing may be a bit shorter At 12 hrs CC is still fluid and workable.
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Great to hear as I have a few rods to coat and was debating if should use CC. Btw CTS are from New Zealand not Australia! We call them KIWIS! lol They are across the ditch off our east coast. We Aussies like to claim kiwi actors and musicians ;) Love to claim CTS but will give this to the kiwis ;)
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Thanks Bill I'll be making something up this weekend.
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Great thanks Bill, Looks pretty east to set up. Is that just single strand stainless wire?
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Bill Marchisella Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mark, > Thanks for the compliment. The Eva cutting tool > that I invented is very accurate. I wish more rod > builders would try it. It can be adapted to most > lathes with a little ingenuity.Thanks again. Thanks for the input guys much appreciated. Bill where do I find information on
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Probably been asked a 1000 times but what is the best tool that leaves the cleanest, straitest cut for EVA. Ive been using the D thread while turning on the lathe. This is ok but looking for a more precise method to keep everything square and straight. I've read Jap pull saws with a fine TPI on a jig work well? Cheers Adam
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I use a fine line plastic tape. Red in colour with white backing about 1/2" incredibly strong. Its not the flexible type you use for pin stripes etc. I bought from an auto paint store. Ill check the name for you. I use it for load testing PE8 jigging rods with 10Kg. I have used making tape in the past for top water rods and had no problem casting or even catching a few fish! But the red t
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