Robert, didn't do the spiral wrap. I did however enjoy using the UL and L baitcast rods. Made fishing challenging like back in old 2. Because of so many breezy days, and those days usually elevating the bite, I threw some of my custom painted 4.7g rebel craws for spring trout in stocked lakes and ponds! Changed out the trebles for inline #4 (front) and inline #6 (rear) with the addition of a seco
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Mark, guys; appreciate all the love. I'm very good with a baitcaster. I rarely use brakes and leave the spool just short of having side-to-side play. On an 36 degree afternoon last week, without wind (enemy of BFS) I was outside getting a Curado BFS XG spooled with #8 braid(thread) tuned in. Shimano spool clearance pretty close. The #8 thread didn't seem to fit in between. A bit tougher thumbing
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I agree with this; "just plain like baitcasters better than spin", I grew up using Pflueger Akron, Nobby and Shakespeare Service 1944 reels for catfish and flathead fishing. I used a baitcaster when wading. Actually was invited onto my first bass boat while fishing on a dock at Lake Roosevelt (AZ). The guy was getting ready to launch and said "can you cast a baitcast reel?" I
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Thanks Tim & Tom, yeah, that's what I meant Tom. I was just reading the post by Mo from over a year back. So it's a maybe. If I do I'll update. I think I have the handle components and microwave guides on hand to give it a go. Weather here in Iowa should be good enough in a couple weeks to try it out at some farm ponds I have permission to fish. The BFS craze has done one thing at least; put
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Thanks Roger. That's why I belong to this forum. Research first to get professional guidance with explanation.
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Have caught the BFS bug. Has anyone has built an ultralight/spiral wrap baitcasting rod for trout or panfish? I have a couple old Abu Garcia UL spinning rods I may scrape and attempt. Seems it would create better line flow through the guides. Use of fiberglass blanks would IMO provide a more appropriate soft action. Any comments or solid advice always welcome. Tuna
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Thanks for all your comments. A local rod builder offered me some threadmaster, But I think it's 2-part for guide wraps. Will find out.
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Ok, I had three spinning rods I didn't use much because of the old style huge guide sets. (Replacement guide sets with tip-tops purchased at Utmost weigh less than each original stripper guide) Carefully, I scraped them down. I did go over them with 400 grit for smoothing. Since they were <$30 each when purchased I decided to try an experiment with Rustoleum Ultra High Heat enamel. The paint w
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And they hold it like an ice fishing rod...
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Has anyone tried using a JigSkinz pattern on a blank?
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Thanks Captain, I guess I'm now up to date.
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Like the profile of the Edge.
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Like to stay on top of my winter hobbies like rod building and crankbait painting. In the past year has any product, component or technique changed the way you would build a casting/spinning rod? I'm aware and use the Fuji KR concept, but that first appeared a few years back. Made a reverse boring bit for grips on my last casting rod builds a week ago. Thanks, Tuna
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Yes Matthew, of course you're right, hurrying does cause mistakes. I do like the result with Flexcoat. Just wondered for someone else.
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From what I read at other rod building forums; Leveling, didn't do well because of the quick setting. Viscosity, a bit runny so hard to control. Brittle, may crack or cause flat spots due to its rigidity.
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Just use an air popper for a heat source. Does a decent job for making crank stencils too! frees up both hands, I use a HF pedal switch to control. Usually though I must admit I just wave a bic lighter a few inches below the wraps to smooth out and release bubbles.
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Disregard. Googled it. Many reasons why it doesn't work as well as 2-part epoxy.
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Is there a product similar to the UV activated resin that is used for fly tying as a wrap finish? Would sure speed up dry times.
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Another question about a telescopic build; should the butt end of top section have some type of plug in it?
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Happy Holidays guys/gals! I have found rodbuilding.org the friendliest fishing forum!
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Thanks Norm, always value your opinions.
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So Matthew, If I want to do a simple spiral; I'll use a dbl-ft #12, then a dbl-ft #10 (@90 degrees), then a dbl-ft #8 at 180 degrees, then a dbl-ft #7 followed by four sgl-ft #6's. If I want a conventional wrap; I'll use all dbl-ft guides #12, then #10, then #8, then two sgl #7's followed by four sgl #6's. From tip: 3.5, 7.5, 12, 17, 23, 30, 37.5, 46, 55 Main purpose is throwing deep (1oz) cra
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Thanks all. In fact I'm buying the blanks from Ron. Do you guys wrap the transition guide on the crank side of the reel? I want the rod to lay somewhat flat on the deck. Does the rotation matter? Instead of testing, I'll just commit.
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Geez, how do I get used to looking at it?
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Plan to build a couple deep crank rods using RX6 FT905 blanks and the guide spacing provided from Batson (CB76MH). Budget components for reel seat and EVA grips in hopes to keep them each less than $100 each. Looking for some guidance on a light but dependable (KR concept) guide set for fluorocarbon lines, any recommendations? Thanks. PS, only doing 3 builds this winter, doing more ice fishing
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Color transitions - PacBay nylon threads Tested several 5 colors. Grey (Y100A-GG), Tan (Y100A-TN), SkyBlue (Y100A-SB), Spring Green (Y100A-SG) and Old Gold (Y100A-OG). Wrapped two 1/4" bands of each color.on a charcoal blank. One set of bands got a coat of CP and finish and the other set just finish. Here my are the results. The set with CP darkened colors by 15-20%, the set with just fini
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Lance, any issues with guide bonding with finish over CP? Phil, thanks, I'll do a display piece with what I have.
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Thanks Roger. Just trying to find out if anyone has logged results of colors after finish saturation. I was hoping not buy several spools to test.
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Thanks Spencer. Guess I'll have to experiment.
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Tom, guess I should better proofread my posts. You're correct, regular nylon colors that darken to become a different color.
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