<p>Green guinea, gray peacock with jungle cock bordered with king fisher and Impeyan Pheasant.  Nickel silver strap and ring hook keeper.</p>
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<p>Engraved monogram on butt cap of pewter reel seat</p>
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<p>Reel seat turned from double dyed, stabilized, box elder burl in green and gold.  Pewter uplocking reel seat and contrasting brown double dyed box elder burl.</p>
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I've used the nail decals on several rods with no problems.
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I think this is what you're talking about. I use this quite often to make a larger "canvas" on which to apply decals; or other art, i.e. feathers, or perhaps a painting of a vintage lure. There are probably several ways to achieve the "swelled butt." The technique I use involves using a two part gel epoxy which I apply to the area to "swell" with a
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I've used a Clemen's Rod lathe since the early 80's. These lathes are Renzetti lathes that were sold under the Clemen's brand. Solid and dependable.
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Check out the fiberglass stints sold by Proof Fly Fishing (https://www.proofflyfishing.com/collections/up-locking-reel-seats/products/fiberglass-stint-for-5-8wt-reel-seats). They are lengths of solid fiberglass rod designed to aid with fitting reel seats to large diameter fly rods. Don't see why you couldn't use them for ferrules.
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Ditto on all the above. Years ago I used another popular brand until finishing a 9 foot fly rod. By the time I got to the 7th, or 8th guide the product had thickened too much to make a smooth application. I switched to Duragloss and have had very good results ever since. Plenty of working time, levels well and is virtually bubble free. I also echo Mr. Lee's sentiments on the Rod Bond - good
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I've been admiring some of the guide wraps I see on various fly rods, and in particular some of the modern fiberglass fly rods. The thread used is typically a very fine Pearsall's Gossamer silk with no color preserver, so after coating with varnish or epoxy the result is a translucent, and in some cases, absolutely clear thread wrap. But what I admire most is many of these wraps have contrastin
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I use Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil; anywhere from 4 to 10 coats; hand rubbed then buffed lightly with steel wool in-between coats. Last coat I don't buff with the steel wool because I prefer a semi-gloss finish. Tru-Oil is used on gun stocks and really brings out the grain on cork handles, especially burl cork. Results in a nice warm, semi gloss on inlays,i.e, exotic woods, buffalo horn, copal amber
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Thank you all for some great information and options. This is exactly what I was looking for. Since I'm in no hurry, I'm thinking the motor from Penn Industries that Roger mentions and provides a link to, may be the way I'll go....once they get it back in stock.
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After years of procrastinating while turning small reel seats, etc. on my Renzetti lathe with the standard 1/10th hp motor, I decided to buy the, almost $200.00, turning motor with bracket listed in the Renzetti online catalog. I already have the Renzetti tail stock and tool rest and would like to continue using my Renzetti lathe for this purpose as opposed to buying another additional wood or m
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That's the one!! Thank you gents
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Just finished a spinning rod using holographic guides and reel seat with color coordinated trim bands in the handle. I thought I saw a spinning reel, somewhere in the past, with a holographic finish. Maybe I was dreaming. I've searched the internet, all the local big name sporting goods stores, all the online @#$%& sites and cannot locate a spinning reel with a holographic finish. Does an
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I am almost finished with a new, modern build on a vintage Fenwick SP782 blank which I will post photos upon completion. I'd like to incorporate a picture or rendering, preferably a decal, of an old wooden lure, i.e. a creek chub minnow or some other vintage lure, onto the rod near the handle. I've searched every decal distributor on the web with no luck for such an image. There are plenty of
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Thank you all for you assistance and gracious offers. I replied to Norman via e-mail. Chuck, I would appreciate the guide you mention. How can we correspond so you can get my mailing address?
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Many years back when fiberglass rods were considered by many to be "subpar" to graphite, I purchased a quantity of fiberglass blanks from a friend. A few years ago I began to notice a resurgance in fiberglass and dug them out of a box in the corner of my shop. I discovered most are vintage Fenwick spinning and casting blanks, (the yellow ones), with a couple of finished rods mixed in.
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Just saw these awesome custom guides in the most recent issue of Rodmaker magazine. The alligator guide is featured on the cover and Mark Crouse's "Alligator Rod" on page 21. The mayfly guide appears to be the stripping guide on Italo Busi's "Combination Cane-Carbon" rod, also featured on page 21. How are these made? Where can I buy some?
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I prefer Sulky brand thread for all my metallic threads. It's made in Germany. Seems to me anything made in Germany is good quality and this thread is no exception. I buy it at a local sewing store and save on shipping. It is not cheap; very consistent, does not unravel and comes in a wide variety of colors.
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I always admire the elegant feather inlays of Willy Ricigliano of Argentina. I recognize the jungle cock eyes, but do not know what the blue feather is. It is quite prominent in his inlays and the most recent edition of Rodmaker contains a photo of one of his inlays with several of these blue feathers. Can anyone tell me what the blue feather is and a source to order some? Thanks
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I recently restored an old Montague "Flash" bamboo rod. It's a 9' 3 piece rod. There is no indication on the rod as to what weight line it uses. There is no writing on the rod at all, only the Flash decal. Prior to wrapping and finishing the guides, I test cast the rod with the guides taped on and a 6 wt line. It cast ok, but I'm wondering if anyone knows; (1) If the Montague F
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Good question. I bought mine many years ago through Dale Clemens. It was called a Clemens lathe, but is actually a Renzetti. Quality is top notch and there isn't anything cheap about them. And, like you, I can't recall seeing them anywhere lately except Renzetti's website. I recall at one time, maybe still, folks were having their Renzetti lathes anodized various colors which made a very att
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These are the dudes that would refer to a vintage Leonard bamboo rod as a "fishing pole," and call the agate stripper guide an "eye." Now I'm curious. Why don't you post a picture of the rod on the photo forum.
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A common alternative to ivory is micarta. Commonly used for knife handles and can be ordered from many knife supply stores on-line. Comes in white and various other colors and is fairly cheap.
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I use my 30 year old Dale Clemens (Renzetti) lathe to turn everything, including stabilized wood. A larger motor would be preferable, but if your lathe tools are sharp you can turn the small items we use like reel seats, trim rings, hosels, etc. I recently posted some photos on the "handle and reel seat," sub category. See "The Emerald", "Musky Stick" and "9'
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Just posted photos of the Packer Rod mentioned above. Should give you an idea how the decals look.
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This is probably a one time rehab. Think I'll stick with what I know and use the Permagloss on the thread wraps only. The finish on the bamboo is perfect so I'm not going to mess with it. Thanks for all the great advice.
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Jeff, Can you get the Epifanes varnish at a hardware store?
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I've had an old Montague Flash 9 ft. bamboo rod laying around for years and I recently decided it was time to restore it to a fishable condition. I know it has little value as a vintage rod, but thought it would be a good project and fun to fish. I've removed all the old guides, closely examined the three rod sections and all appear to be sound; no delaminations, etc. The ferrules fit perfectl
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Thanks to all for your excellent and comprehensive responses. Buzz, the arrangement you have looks great; simple, efficient and you can carry it on. The two blanks you mentioned are two I was considering, but I was afraid they would be too long to fit inside a checked bag, but obviously there is no need if you can carry them on. I'll check out the other blanks mentioned as well. Thanks aga
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