Jasper, Additionally, do NOT forget to use blue Loctite on the threads during reassembly; otherwise you will probably lose the screws and inevitably, at the least opportune time (as in fish on!).
Forum: rodboard

Jasper, I am admittedly unfamiliar with Winthrop rollers but all brands must be similar. It is very possible the sides of the guide need to be spread slightly to release the roller and bushing/bearing. Do so with caution as to not produce a burr which might (probably will given Murphy’s Law) damage the line down the road. It is refreshing to learn there are those who actually maintain their roll
Forum: rodboard

David, Do not give-up hope, at least not yet. While it appears you did not include enough hardener, none the less there IS hardener in the mix and given time and temperature, if will eventually “go-off” or cure. Most common epoxies are “low temperature” meaning less than 150*F; a post-cure of 150* should work given enough time, possibly as many as 1-2 days. Get a suitable cardboard box, put a su
Forum: rodboard

I have noticed what might be considered a misconception of just how strong guides themselves and their thread-wraps actually need to be to mount them securely to any given blank. While certainly no one wants a guide or its thread-wrap to fail while battling that Big-Bad-Boy-trophy-of a-lifetime, it is very possible many builders go overboard in the strength department without even knowing it. Alt
Forum: rodboard

Zachary, KL-H reduction guides followed by as many KBs as the blank diameter will allow and KTs the rest of the way to a LG tip top; I find the Alconite rings to be durable and slippery at an affordable price. The size of the rings is dependent on line type and test as well as the reel size. While the KR Concept was based on utilizing the limpness of braided line, lower pound-test flor/mono is i
Forum: rodboard

Mike, When (less) weight is paramount over durability, PacBay Minima M guides followed by F runners are a very good choice and are of sufficient height to allow and utilize Fuji’s KR Concept spacing. While they are lighter than the Fuji KL-H reduction guides, none the less I prefer the Fujis. However, the weight savings of the PB F running guides compared to the Fuji KBs and KTs runners is minis
Forum: rodboard

Stan, Since you put so much feeling into feeling, do you perform CCF measuring as well?
Forum: rodboard

Donald, The first thing you need to decide considering coatings is if want your rebuild/restoration to be era-correct or optimum. Old-school coatings are just that, old, and while there are those who may consider them to be “proper” for a vintage repair, modern coatings are generally tougher, last longer and maybe even easier to apply. Is it a museum piece or something someone is actually going
Forum: rodboard

Ben, Anyone able to apply epoxy to a thread-wrap can easily produce a CARL! The process is quite similar. Yes, the response has been “luke warm” which is admittedly disappointing considering the astounding benefits and time spent developing the procedure. None the less, for those who try it, they will never turn back. There is no “making molds”; the actual blank simply IS the mold! While cutting
Forum: rodboard

Ernie, Your basic understanding of the KR Concept is quite good. Regarding the reduction-train, you are throwing a bit of a curve-ball by employing relatively small 12-15lb braid with a relatively larger 4500 reel; based on line-size, I would use the KL-16H, 8H, 5.5M but based on reel size the KL-20H, 10H, 5.5M might be a better choice. All things considered, the larger reduction-train might be
Forum: rodboard

Ben, You are almost certainly correct that the “…same model and spec glass rods…” will produce matching tapers for the sleeve and spigot ferrules. While not the first to use a same-make-and-model sacrificial blank to produce spigots (but not outer sleeves) for a multi-piece rod, I have done so myself with good results although I am very careful not to over-stress the tiny spigots. However, produ
Forum: rodboard

Ben, I do not understand why you would make a CARL sleeve ferrule yet not the CARL spigot as well? You will be lucky indeed if the tubular E-glass you used for the spigot is even close to the same taper as the blank; that is one of the beauties of CARL = the tapers are inherently identical to the blank. Because the CARL tapers are identical to the blank, the ferrules/rod sections will not work
Forum: rodboard

Stan, I take exception to Roger’s comment in his first reply, “No point in leaving a tip section laying around to remind you of a mistake that was once made.” I have plenty of reminders of mistakes I have made, both lying around and being used as well!!! lol. I do not know how involved the threadwork is in your guide wraps. Some of mine require over an hour each to wrap so I can understand your
Forum: rodboard

Derik, This might interest you:
Forum: rodboard

Ben, By the way, if you followed the CARL building procedure using the blank itself as the mold for the ferrules, they will inherently have the same, identical taper and do not require bonding to one of the blank sections; actually, NOT bonding will produce less interference with the natural flex curve of the blank.
Forum: rodboard

Ben, It is nice to learn someone is taking advantage of the fruits of my labor (CARL). Unless your rod is over a 20lb rating, 2.25in for the external Sleeve ferrule will be adequate. Make the internal spigot ferrule shorter, say 2in to distribute any forces at the ends of both ferrules over a larger area of the blank itself. While it may not be required/prudent to do so, it should make logical s
Forum: rodboard

John (and others), When shipping anything, “ship happens “. I am not attempting to defend USPS or any other carrier for that matter. But the long yet skinny dimensions of rods/blanks being shipped are certainly more prone to damage than the typically-dimensional packages. Yes, agreed, anything shipped should arrive in-tact, but again, “ship happens”. I feel it has more to do with automation tha
Forum: rodboard

Mike, I can only comment to your question from what I have heard and learned on this site, and as you probably know, there are a lot of veterans here. Basically, all threads are not created equally so why take the chance with a thread which is not specifically intended for rod wrapping? While price may be a consideration, there are much more important issues to consider first; the most important
Forum: rodboard

Michael, I have only purchased one bamboo blank and it was from Johnny (RIP) at Anglers Roost. His were quite affordable yet not the quality many would be looking for in a cane blank. One of the things I learned is to make certain the bamboo is “heat-tempered”; without, the blank will “take a set” when flexed in one direction and then “take another set” when flexed in another direction and so on
Forum: rodboard

Ben, I, too, have been and am intrigued with the possibilities of a telescopic rod but have not discovered a method which appeals to me; mostly due to restricted guide placement. I am interested in seeing what you have accomplished thus far, if you care to divulge such.
Forum: rodboard

Roger is the Wonder Wizard of electronics!!!
Forum: rodboard

Russell, Your replies and insight are always welcomed, acknowledged and digested = thanks. The objective of the post was to inform those who may not know that the CLBs are still available. I am certain the others you suggested are fine as well. The first saltwater rod I purchased (some 40 years ago) was a Sabre and I still use it on occasion. While I may be admittedly a bit goofy for these vinta
Forum: rodboard

The recent posts concerning single-foot guide pull-out and thread locking wraps to avoid such prompted me to post this question which I have considered for quite some time; why are there those builders who rely upon CP to fill the tunnels under the thread-warps and next to the guide feet rather than a much more substantial, structural material such as thread finish epoxy? Coming from the structur
Forum: rodboard

Ben, Are these truly telescopic where each section is completely concealed within the next larger section? Are you simply cutting the blank into sections which fit inside the next section? If you are looking to produce a multi-piece rod, check out my flexible tubular, tapered, FG CARL ferrules. They impose less than 1% difference between the original one-piece blank and after cut. The process ha
Forum: rodboard

Tom printed an outstanding, informative article (I think it was a reprint from years prior) on “Building Live Bait Rods” in the V21-4 of RodMaker magazine. I employed its contents to build an awesome live-bait rod for Calico out here on the Left Coast. Tom outwardly had a preference to one particular brand of blank,”The Seeker CLB rod blanks come to mind although they are no longer in production”
Forum: rodboard

Kent’s contribution is very good and parallels my thinking that if a guide pulls-out, it is due to abuse or improper installation of the guide. Agreed, there is no way that ANY excessive line tension could possible pull a guide out! Additionally, I rarely use CP; why would I want CP filling my guide tunnels rather than much superior, stronger, application-specific epoxy! (That is sure to create a
Forum: rodboard

Zachary, If you want to increase your trout Fish Fighting Fun Factor, consider a vintage Conolon blank; they are absolutely gorgeous with a coat of PG plus you will be fishing a piece of fishing rod history. I have a stock from 5ft to 7ft.
Forum: rodboard

Michael, Look for shower or patio door rollers/wheels; many come with a groove to accept a raised “bead” in the bottom track which is ideal for installing a proper diameter O-ring (silicone is more expensive but well worth it). Check-out McMaster Carr = great products, service, shipping!!!
Forum: rodboard

Michael, Thank you for the kind insight without correction; I meant 82cm, not mm. Cut me some slack; I am old school and a fabricator who still employs 1000th inch increments LOL. Getting close to page #3.
Forum: rodboard

I have been entertaining the thought of building my first fly rod as well and wondering of the stripper placement. Tom, is 2’8” or 82mm close enough? lol
Forum: rodboard